Day 35: El Rocio to Huelva

April 5, 2023

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When we arrived in El Rocio yesterday, we were tired and to boot did not appreciate where we really were. We were more just put out by the sand streets. But this morning after a good sleep, not to mention a one jammer but still effective breakfast, we could fully appreciate what a great place this was. Unless you have a horse, the sand streets are not really the thing. Rather there are three other big things going on here. First, El Rocio is on the shore of a shallow lake, and it has a boardwalk going around the whole thing. The boardwalk has bird viewing stations, and there are lots of birds to see. Next, El Rocio is the home of the virgin of El Rocio, housed in its own basilica. The virgin is nothing more than another of those elaborate statues, found in chapels of all churches hereabouts, but this one has become super famous. Yikes, as we shall see, Pope John Paul II even made a pilgrimage to here. And finally, El Rocio is at the east end of the Donana national park, known for all sorts of wildlife, including many birds but also iconic lynx. Four wheel drive bus tours leave from El Rocio and head into the park dunes.

We walked out of our hotel and into all this, starting with the lake, and there immediately a large number of flamingos. Every last one had its head in the water, and they refused to look at me!

We found the boardwalk a big boon, compared to the sand, and also appreciated the story boards showing which birds we might expect to see.

If a duck won't look at you and is at a distance, it can be hard to get a clear shot and ID.

The Spoonbills were waving their bills rapidly back and forth in the water, and seldom looked up.

We worked our way along the lake and adjacent to the church of the El Rocio virgin.

The virgin, which is just a carving, whose origins are a bit lost in time, is the focus of a huge annual pilgrimage, said to involve over a million people coming from several different directions. Here is one image of what it looks like:

On this day and at this hour, I was absolutely alone in the church, with the virgin.

A side chapel had some other quality statues as well.

Famously, Pope John Paul II came here in 1993. He is depicted with the virgin in a mural on a church wall.

Looking out the church back door toward the lake integrates two of the great things in El Rocio.

Here we head down the (non sand) causeway and out of town. It was a beautiful excursion along the lake.

We had tried plotting our route to Huelva with various software, but considered all the suggestions unacceptable, which means sandy. Instead we just took various obvious A roads, which invariably here had acceptable shoulders. Our first road led to Almonte, and offered views of endless greenhouses often filled with strawberries, and those lovely pine trees th the mushroom like shape.

Aside from strawberries, they also seem to raise outhouses!

Almonte was a lovely town with the added feature that is was running kind of a franchise of the virgin of El Rocio, with its own church, statues, plaza, and such. The town considers the virgin its patron ... virgin?

The statue in the central roundabout displays the dominance of horse culture in this area.

One the side of the church, a mural depicts some history.

Here is the note about that never to be forgotten 1993 Pope visit.

Inside the church, lots of clone virgin imagery, plus their very own virgin float.

This float is ready to roll out on the town.

Outside the church the town has the Plaza of the Virgin of El Rocio, which not only has a further Virgin statue, but a block long white metal canopy thing. Somewhere in here I seem to have found another chapel, with further floats. This is all pictured below.

Candle holders tossed on the floor behind a float. The candle bearers must have been too beat to tidy up.

A last look at town before hitting the road.

This cowboy exercising his horse waved and called out to us.

Vines are not as common as olives and oranges, but are still around.

We haven't seen dates, but these palms could be the right type.

We are clearly on a 90 kph road. Dodie thought this radar speed warning that included bikes was a laugh.

The red soil of the olive groves can also be seen in this sandstone cut along the highway.

Here is an interesting closeup view of the bark of those unique mushroom shaped pine trees.

We could not say that this vehicle is typical, but it was interesting. It soon turned off into the bush.

We arrives in San Juan del Puerto, yet another attractive village.

Actually, it decided to sing an oratorio,

Just along a normal street, a small chapel yielded yet another float, ready to go.

The main church of town was locked tight, though as usual we searched for a back door, or open "float garage".

Beautiful tiled benches like this have ben seen in other church forecourts as well.

Here in a main roundabout, another statue depicting the local culture.

Now we neared Huelva, and again - flamingos!

Back in Huelva, we again noted that it was rather busy and unlovely. This is a way different impression from that of the Classens.

Suddenly we found that police had closed the streets, and that a river of blue clad Nazarenos was passing through. They had a band, but I could see no float. Dodie advised patience, but I wanted to get to the hotel. I did video the band a bit, and you'll find that just below.

The hotel was just down the street from the one we had stayed at on the way to Seville, but it was more in the pedestrian area, and more upscale. We were still not seeing why the Classens had had so much praise for Huelva. Still, we dropped our gear and went out for a closer look. We were immediately attracted by the drums of a paso, and walked down (past our old hotel) to the sea of blue, and to finally see the elaborate float. We did a lot of photos and video then, before returning to our quiet hotel.

Sitting and working on the blog for a couple of hours, we now heard drums outside the hotel. BOOM, BOOM,...BOOMBOOMBOOM they go. I went down for a peek, and found the hotel, formerly deserted, surrounded by thousands of people. They were applauding, crossing themselves, as the float passed by the door. BOOMBOOMBOOM. It was really exciting!

Here is the rest of the story in pictures and video. As I type this at 9:30 p.m. our room is filled by music and drums!

The walking street in front of the hotel.

Young walkers have their parents nearby.

The river of blue clad figures goes back a long way.

Changing "horses". The people wear those turbans to help support the weight.

The carriers seems to maintain a different rhythm from the drummers - they shuffle quite fast, but with short steps.

Back at our hotel, a look at the nearby walking streets - crowded, but just wait!

A couple of hours later - in front of our hotel.

Today's ride: 68 km (42 miles)
Total: 1,414 km (878 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonLooks like it was very exciting!
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesIt is certainly a much anticipated and enjoyed annual event. We feel lucky to have been here at this time to witness it.
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1 year ago