August 27, 2022
To Givet
Today’s route followed the Trans-Ardennes Voie Verte all the way to Givet, coursing alongside the river as it twisted and turned its way north toward the Belgium border. The temperatures were moderate, the skies partly cloudy – it was an excellent day for a lazy ride up the river, save for the annoying wind. The prevailing winds were northerly at about 10-12 mph, but everyone agreed that there was a constant headwind, no matter in which direction you pedaled as you followed the meandering river.
I left my B&B about quarter past nine and arrived at the cycle path just as the German lads were pulling up – another chance meeting with my new friends. Unbelievable! We hopscotched over the first few miles, then I fell behind taking photos. And there were a lot of photo stops – the river widened as it headed north, with sweeping curves and steeper headlands. The trees had started to turn, and rust-colored patches were intermixed with green foliage and rock outcroppings. There were loads of cyclists out enjoying the trail, and I stopped to chat with several couples that I’d met over the previous days.
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For most of the day, I considered the wind an annoyance rather than an impediment. The exception was a five mile stretch along the headland just beyond the tunnel at Revin. I was more than ready for a break by the time I’d descended to the bridge at Fumay and was happy to find a small riverside plaza with a food truck and picnic tables – just the spot for a cold coke to accompany my sandwich. I was not the only cyclist taking a break, and I was soon exchanging pleasantries with three young guys attending some type of “Bikepacking 101” tour that provided bikes and all the gear needed for bikepacking, even a small stove and dehydrated meals. After exchanging photos, I got ready to roll out of town when I spotted four familiar faces seated at one of the plaza tables – yes, my German friends had stopped for a break. Of course I stayed for a coffee, and after yet another round of “good-bye and good-luck” set off for the last stretch to Givet.
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It was about half past four when I checked in to my Logis hotel, and after a short rest and cleaning up I headed out for dinner. I had done a little scouting online, looking for something that would be relatively fast, but not fast food – I needed to do some catching up on the journal and did not want a two-hour dinner. I was moseying along toward a couscous spot a few blocks up the street when a line of cyclists crossed the river, turned toward me, and then stopped as they shouted greetings. Another chance encounter with my German friends! I almost fell over. My plans for a quick dinner and journaling were jettisoned as I joined them for a rollicking meal accompanied by several rounds of German beer. They were heading to Liège tomorrow while I was continuing north to Tienen and Geel, so we said our final final good-byes with promises to stay in touch and threats to visit should I ever find myself in Essen, Germany. Their good humor and generous spirit added much to my journey up the Meuse River and is something I will always treasure.
Today's ride: 55 miles (89 km)
Total: 2,374 miles (3,821 km)
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