April 2, 2022 to April 3, 2022
Ready or Not
Saturday, April 2
I never unpacked my bags for Spain. Vivien George stayed in her traveling case and my gear remained ensconced in their various dry sacks. Consequently, my packing list for Italy is short and is mostly centered on unpacking, on lightening the load in deference to my ankle. There wasn’t much excess baggage, but I did eliminate a couple of clothing items and some accessories. The bags are ready to go.
The biggest item not ready is me, my body. Rather than racking up the training miles, I’ve spent most of the last month on a couch idly indulging in baguettes and cheese. Yes, the ankle is a concern, but so is my overall biking fitness. I’ve been desperate to get on a bicycle.
It had stopped raining by Saturday morning, and although the cold persisted it promised to be a great day for some cycling. It was just about 40°F when I ventured out at 10 am to check out the brocante (flea market) taking place in the neighborhood. It was toasty in the sun, but cold and wind cut to the bone when clouds passed by. I hurried home for another cup of coffee
By noon I could wait no more - I checked out a Velib bike headed for central Paris. I quickly remembered how much I enjoy cycling through the streets of Paris. My route took me past the gold dome of Les Invalides and the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden, with both statues and onlookers visible beyond the wrought iron fence. I parked the bike behind the Musée d’Orsay and set out on foot, crossing the Seine on the Passerelle Léopold Sédar-Senghor. I’d intended to follow my usual route through the Jardin des Tuileries, but the quai along the Seine looked too inviting.
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Dropping down to the river’s edge was an excellent choice. The flanking wall not only protected me from the fierce north wind but also provided a bit of radiant heat. And it was a delightful promenade.
I walked almost two miles along the quai, stopping on occasion to bask in the sun or to snap a photo, but mostly just enjoying the views up, down, and across the river. Tourist numbers have increased, as evidenced by the variety of languages heard and the number of sightseeing boats. But it was fairly peaceful along the quai, a thin strip of relative calm below street level.
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I passed under the three bridges that cross the Seine to Île de la Cité before finally leaving the quai and walking up and over to Île Saint-Louis. I’d wanted to keep going but it had become a bit cloudy and a little too cold. I found a Velib station behind Notre Dame Cathedral and headed home.
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In all, I’d managed about 5.5 mi of biking and 2 mi walking. Later that afternoon I added another mile of each when I went to Carla’s house for coffee. All went well and I am quite pleased – it’s not touring but it’s a start.
Sunday, April 3
Another day of sunshine to close out Paris, Part I of my adventure. It is also the first Sunday of the month, which means many museums are free and a number of roads are closed to vehicles. The museums will be here in May, it’s time to bike.
Carla had been a bit skeptical yesterday when we discussed car-free Sundays in Paris. I’d read that roads in Arrondissements 1-4 would be traffic free, and she said a number of other roads would also be closed to traffic, including the Champs Élyssées. However, she warned, the streets fill with pedestrians, strollers, scooters, and dogs – none of whom are looking out for cyclists. Undeterred, I set my sights on the Champs Élyssées.
My vision of cycling up the Champs Élyssées toward the Arc de Triomphe was not realized. Today was the day of the Paris Marathon, which started earlier this morning on the Champs Élyssées. By the time I got to the famed boulevard, it was largely fenced off and city trucks were busy picking up debris and washing the cobbles.
I parked the Velib and headed up the boulevard towards the Arc de Triomphe on foot, past the lines of people waiting to enter Louis Vuitton, past the enormous Dior façade. I reached the end of the fencing and walked out to the middle of the boulevard. And, as Carla had said, the streets began to fill with pedestrians, strollers, scooters – though I didn’t see a dog.
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My next destination was the Palais Garnier, but I got on the wrong street and headed northeast rather than southeast. No worries, it was a new part of the city for me, one a bit more wealthy than my neighborhood. I detoured on foot through the lovely Parc Monceau and flanking streets before finding another Velib station and heading home. As I cycled through Place de la Concorde and the now-shrouded Obelisk of Luxor, I briefly watched the tail end of the Paris Marathon as it passed under the Pont de la Concorde. Crossing back over the Seine, I was on the more familiar streets of the 7th and 15th Arrondissements and made quick time back to home.
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2 years ago
2 years ago
By the time I reached home I’d put another 6+ miles on the bike, making a total of 14 miles for the weekend. I actually think cycling is better for the ankle than walking! Can't wait to do some more two-wheeled therapy.
Today's ride: 14 miles (23 km)
Total: 15 miles (24 km)
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| Comment on this entry | Comment | 6 |
I like the way you are using the Velib, Paris Hire bikes which I have seen but not used, felt it was too much trouble figuring it out how ever you’ve inspired me to use them when/if I visit Paris again, or for that matter any major city with hire bikes.
Useful information about traffic free roads 1st of the month in Paris.
Thanks
Sandra
Ps I have visited Paris twice your photos are bringing back good memories…..just might have to visit again
2 years ago
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On to Italy!
2 years ago