Wrap Up - Eating Our Way Around Sardinia and Puglia - 2023 - CycleBlaze

December 6, 2023

Wrap Up

Getting Home

My trip home was uneventful. Check-in and getting through security in Rome were both very quick processes, so I had time for breakfast and a final cappuccino in one of the airport lounges.  My flights home were unremarkable, but I did need almost all of the two hours I had in Paris to change terminals. CDG airport is a bit of a gong show, isn't it?  I wonder what wizard came up with the terminal numbering system.  My boarding pass said I was departing from Terminal 2. But that wasn't particularly helpful, since Terminal 2 has seven different buildings.  Westjet flies from Terminal 2E, and it turns out that Terminal 2E has three separate buildings (2E, 2E hall L, and 2E hall M). Yikes.  

Westjet's food was much better heading back to Canada that it had been on my flight to Europe.  The seat next to me on my Calgary flight was vacant, which always feels like a win.

I arrived back in Canada to find Calgary snow-free and warm for November.  I drove to Canmore on Wednesday night then back home on Thursday morning. Since that time, the roads have been snowy, slushy, and downright awful, so I'm lucky to have arrived when I did.

Final Thoughts

First, the good stuff:

  • Sue was a great touring companion.  I knew that would be the case, since we'd travelled together before and have known each other forever.  It was good that we were both flexible regarding planning, so that we could deal with weather issues and getting colds.
  • The people of Sardinia are wonderful.  For anyone who has visited Newfoundland, they are THAT friendly. Just a delight. We didn't encounter a cranky person on the island.
  • The interior of Sardinia was fabulous - beautiful landscapes, sheep, sheep, and more sheep, rocks and more rocks, nuraghi, friendly dogs and friendlier farmers.
  • It was fun to get in a couple of ocean swims.  The weather got cool at the end of the trip, so it's hard to remember that we arrived to perfect summer temperatures.
  • The history.  All of it.  I'm glad to have finally visited the major sites of Rome, but there was something mind-blowing to see just about every day - archaeological sites, trulli, nuraghi, cave houses. It goes on and on. 
  • Food - our multi-course agriturismo dinner was delicious, I ate my weight in pecorino, the porchetta sandwich in Alghero was crazy good, gelato was generally great (if not always easy to find), and cornetto pastries and Italian clementines kept me fuelled. Breakfasts in B&Bs were better and more substantial than I expected them to be. Decaf coffee was available fresh ground in every café I visited.  Pistachio-flavoured everything was a theme (pastry, gelato, chocolate, even sprinkled on pasta). Looking back at my many pizza meals, I think I like the Roman pizza al taglio best - that's pizza by the slice with a nice thin crust. 
  • All the rental rooms and apartments were great. Not a dud among them. They were very clean. Internet was excellent everywhere except two places where it was slow, and one where it wasn’t provided.
  • My Airolo eSIM was easy to purchase and worked flawlessly. Next time, I would buy a shorter duration eSIM with less data, and then just top it up weekly.  Top ups are easy to manage and happen automatically if you choose that option. 
  • Visiting Italy in late October and November has its advantages - it was easy to find excellent and reasonably-priced accommodation, crowds were light, and there was no need to book anything ahead.  For me, the temperatures were just about perfect. 
  • My bike worked well, and I had no aches or pains relating to bike fit.  I had no flats or mechanicals. Navigation using Komoot worked fine. Most of the time I relied on the Garmin Edge 530 for directions, but I use the Komoot app on my phone to see the bigger picture. I do wish the Garmin's brain was a bit quicker, but we got along better this year now that I know she's slow to recalculate route changes.    
  • Cycling-wise, a few areas stand out in my memory- in Sardinia, La Maddalena is a great place to bike, and the ride from Ittiri downill to the coast, then along the coast to north of Bosa was spectacular. In Puglia, the views and country roads around Alberobello/Locorotondo were wonderful, and the Adriatic coast from Santa Marie di Leuca north to Lecce is spectacular.

Things I wish were different:

  • It sounds like a weird thing to say, but at times I really wished there were more tourists. Sardinia REALLY shuts down in November. In places, it was hard to find open restaurants. I'd love to return to Sardinia in the spring, or maybe late September/early October. Things were quiet in Puglia too, but not quite to the same extent as Sardinia.
  • I didn't need to experience Storm Ciaran. The headwind we faced on the way to Alghero was nasty. On a brighter note, it made us change our plans and head inland, which was great.
  • Lots of Puglian drivers like to speed and don't provide nearly as much space as I'd like. They also like to toot their horns as a warning that they're going to drive past you even if there is oncoming traffic.  I'm not a fan. 
  • Garbage on the road sides. C'mon Italy, you can do better.  For a starter, maybe try a deposit on bottles...
  • Both Sue and I got sick.  Although it didn't slow us down much, we were both stuffed up and coughing, which isn't much fun. My cough is finally fading away now that I've been home for a week.  
  • Gear-wise, there's not much I'd change.  I should've brought my titanium spork, but I survived with some pilfered bamboo cutlery. I didn't need to bring the keyboard for my iPad, because it turns out that I wrote most of my journal on my iPhone.  You know your gear choices were pretty good when all you can come up with adding is a spork.  I've ordered a saddle to replace my comfortable but sometimes annoyingly creaky one.
  • Seeing Puglia on my own was fine, but given the choice, I'd have a travelling companion because there are a lot more laughs.
  • Late November weather wasn't ideal, but it was better than the weather at home :-)
Rate this entry's writing Heart 9
Comment on this entry Comment 13
Janice BranhamGreat journal and wrap-up. Thanks for sharing your story!
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5 months ago
Anne MathersThanks for taking us along in your tour, Betsy. We followed you every inch of the way and totally agree with the highlights you mentioned. Those rides hold special memories. The Italian garbage situation is a quagmire that they have wallowed in for so long, it seems it’s not going away any time soon, against the wishes of many.
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5 months ago
Suzanne GibsonI thoroughly enjoyed your journal, thanks for posting. I was in Sardinia many many years ago, in 1960. I still recognized the nuraghi, not much else.
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5 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesInteresting and well written tour. You are so right about the disaster that is Charles de Gaulle Airport. We have decided that rather than try to transfer there we will book 2 separate flights at least 3 to 4 hours apart to ensure enough time to navigate the airport. What a mess. Any thoughts on your next adventure?
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5 months ago
Betsy EvansTo Steve Miller/GrampiesThanks! I'm quite happy to stay put in the wintertime and enjoy the skiing in Revelstoke. I'm going cycling in Morocco for a couple of weeks in April. It will be a fun trip with high school pals, but it won't be terribly adventurous because it's a guided group.
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5 months ago
Jacquie GaudetI really enjoyed following along! In my two (so far) cycle trips in Italy, I didn't experience much tooting of horns and fewer close/fast passes than I would have here in the Vancouver area.
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5 months ago
Betsy EvansTo Anne MathersThanks for following along. Your trips to Sardinia and Puglia were inspirations!
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5 months ago
Betsy EvansTo Jacquie GaudetThanks for the comment about Italian drivers. You're right that it's not fair to peg the fast/close driving on all of Italy, because it was fine in Sardinia and also fine on a past trip to the Dolomites and Veneto, where I was more annoyed with the legions German motor bikers. It's also true that I've had bad experiences in Canada, mostly in Alberta where a few rednecks don't believe in sharing the road. In Alberta, it feels like they're honking in anger, while in Puglia it seemed to be more of a friendly warning that they were about to pass. It still made me jump every time. I've edited my last journal entry. And shouldn't have put it to the top of the page. Oops.
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5 months ago
Rachael AndersonI got behind on your journal but enjoyed catching up on it this morning! What a great journal and you have such a great attitude about the issues that come up. I agree with you about your observations about traffic, garbage and being in places to late in the season when you can’t find open restaurants.
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5 months ago
Scott FenwickSo much fun following along your tour. Now I want to go back to Sardinia and see more of the interior. Cycling islands are the best in my books but Puglia has also been on our radar. I also have to agree that Italian drivers are not nearly as courteous as we just experienced the drivers to be in northern Spain. We did find our ride in Tuscany to be quite good but that may have been because we could often find the roads less travelled. A Garmin suggestion - turn auto reroute off. I find it unnecessary and even annoying when you want make a slight variation off the planned route. Garmin will advise that you are off route but your original planned route will stay visible so you can always see how you can reconnect further along the ride. Garmin does not try to do this re-calculation for you. Will send you a note in February to possibly join us for a lap or two through Greely!
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5 months ago
Rich FrasierA great journal! Thanks for writing it - I’m pilfering ideas for a tour in Puglia next spring!
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5 months ago
Betsy EvansTo Scott FenwickThanks for the Garmin tip! I've already made the change.

It'd be great to see you here in Revelstoke in February :-)
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5 months ago
Betsy EvansTo Rich FrasierThanks! I had lots of great Puglia advice from other people on this site.
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5 months ago