The Sorta Plan - Eating Our Way Around Sardinia and Puglia - 2023 - CycleBlaze

The Sorta Plan

It was a tough decision!

Up until mid-October, the only thing certain about my trip was that I'd fly in and out of Rome.  I planned two separate loops, one to Sardinia/Corsica, and one to Puglia/Campania/Basilicata, depending on whether someone would be joining me (and how much they like cycling up and down hills). Thanks to the Mathers for inspiring trip reports to both Sardinia and southern Italy - either way, I'll be following in your tracks. And thanks also to the Andersons and Fenwicks for info on Corsica routes. 

Why start in Rome?  Well, I don't like to admit that I planned my trip based on where I could fly to direct from Calgary,  but that was a very big consideration.  Less of an opportunity for travel delays and lost luggage.  A bonus is the low fee to bring my bike.

And why November?  I love living in BC, because there`s some sort of fun outdoor activity to be enjoyed most months. Leaving home most times of the year results in FOMO.  But not in dark, dreary, wet November.  Yes, there might be early season ski touring. But there are also lots of early season hazards like buried stumps and rocks, and I`d hate to end my season before it really got going. I had 25 sunny winters in Calgary, and willingly traded them in for lots more snow - but it does come with a loss of sunshine.

I'll have company for about three weeks, then be on my own for another couple of weeks.  The entire plan hasn't quite been settled - that'll depend on weather.  If Corsica looks dry, we'll head there almost immediately. If the weather in Sardinia looks better, we'll stay there. 

I really hope to get to Corsica. I figure I'd better ride there while I'm still able.  

Company

Sue and Rick are yet more residents of Canmore, Alberta a group that is well-represented here on CycleBlaze. No wonder - it's a beautiful place, with great cycling and loads of active retirees. Rick will stay home this time, with Mabel the black lab, who is one of my favourite living creatures, even if she does have bad habits like eating poop and rolling in dead fish.  Unlike the McLeod/Kaarsoo's foster pup Levi in Canmore, Mabel doesn't have the chops to be a guide dog. Unless you need to be guided to her dinner dish.   

Mabel says: "Are you going to throw that ball, or what?"
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I've known Sue since our very first day at university, oh so many years ago.  We both studied engineering at Queen's, but that doesn't mean that either of us are particularly handy at fixing bikes. Need to run your refinery? That's Sue. Need to sort out some environmental issues, or maybe get a new permit?  That's me.  Sue is 100% retired, and I'm about 99% there - I'm just wrapping up a few long-term projects.

Sue and I will fly on separate airlines, but will arrive in Rome within 40 minutes of each other, if the planets align. 

Timing

Is November too late to bike in this area?  Time will tell. Since Corsica forbids bikes on their wee trains, and the Sardinian train system isn`t extensive, it`s a bit of a bigger risk than the mainland trip if the weather turns lousy.  It`ll be off-season, so hopefully we`ll still be able to find places to stay.  I`m a book a few days in advance sort of person, not a book the whole trip sort of person.  

My French language skills (mediocre) have been gained through a lifetime, and are a whole lot better than my Italian. I`ve learned enough this year from Duolingo and the Coffee Break Italian podcast to be polite - but only in the present tense.  A friend who has spent lots of time trying to learn Italian laughed and told me that Italians  talk so fast that I won`t understand anything anyway.  But I should be able to greet people, and to order gelato and birra, and that`s what really counts. 

Gear and apps remain pretty much unchanged from last year's trip to Andalucia, except last year I got a physical SIM card from Movistar at a great price, and plunked it into an old Android phone. This year I’ve moved to an eSIM for my iPhone 11. Getting a SIM card is made somewhat tricky by the length of my trip - it’s too long for a ‘tourist’ card, and also complicated by visiting two countries. The eSIM should be pretty convenient - it’ll start as soon as the phone connects to an Italian cell tower. My Canadian physical SIM card still be active, but will have roaming turned off. 

The Calgary weather for departure  is cold and snowy, and I had my first nasty drive of the year to get to Canmore on the eve of departure.  But the Rome forecast temperature upon arrival is 22 C.  So it's a great time to say andiamo!  

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Scott AndersonI am so looking forward to this! I’ve often wondered what it would be like to visit either Corsica or Sardinia this late off season. We Combined Italy and Sardinia in an unjournaled trip almost 20 years ago, and by late May Sardinia was already warmer and busier than we really cared for. It could be amazing if you get lucky with the weather and can find accommodations.
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6 months ago
Keith ClassenYour timing makes perfect sense to me for all the reasons you mentioned. Have a great time and look forward to following along. Have more time for that now that we are home. It’s amazing how full each day it when we are on the road.
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6 months ago
Jacquie GaudetWe went to Andalusia in November 2021 specifically to not be in BC at that time, since we had to pay for accommodation anyway, being between homes. It was an excellent time to be there and we missed one of the worst BC Novembers on record. As long as you're prepared for short daylight and some bad weather days (if they happen), you'll be fine.
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6 months ago