Santa Maria di Leuca to Otranto

November 23, 2023

Spectacular coastline

Happy 94th birthday, Mom! I’m sorry you’ve got COVID. Not a great way to celebrate.

The pouring rain continued overnight. I am so lucky to have biked in good weather yesterday. The forecasts said it would stop at some point this morning, and I had my fingers crossed. But there was a brief heavy shower while I sat in the beautiful breakfast room at Villa Pedaci enjoying my multi-course meal. It was fine that I only had snacks for dinner last night, because this house may offer the best B&B breakfast in Italy. There was the usual sweet stuff, fruit, and yogurt, plus cheeses, meats, bread, and homemade sweet and savoury tarts and homemade cookies. I particularly enjoyed a small potato and cheese creation. I couldn’t make much of a dent in what was on the table. But I was offered plastic bags to take away what I wanted. Too bad it was wet this morning, because there is a huge terrace off the breakfast room to eat outdoors in good weather.

I lingered to let the worst of the showers pass, then finally donned my rain gear and packed up for a drizzly departure. Rain was on and off for about the first 90 minutes of the ride. I started out my ride through an area of country properties and small farms, and dropped to the coast just at the north end of the road closure due to bridge work.

It would’ve been nice to eat out on the terrace if the rain weren’t bouncing off the tables. 💦

These are not trulli, but they are trulli adjacent. Some sort of dry stone shelter.

Dead olive trees. On other days I’ve seen a few farmers burning piles of wood.

I started my day on an official bike route.

Argh. This hiking trail would be fine on foot, but it’s not good for any sort of biking. I removed my panniers to get the bike across this bit. I pledge that I’ll edit this bit in OSM upon my return home.

The Adriatic coast is so different than what I’d seen over the past few days. Gone were the cheap looking resorts. This is the glitzy side, with big ocean-view properties. But there did seem to be regular people around too. There were open restaurants and real towns. I stopped in one town for a cappuccino and tiny tuna sandwich.

Walking down the wet steps of the coffee bar, I managed to drop my heavy bike. I lost my balance trying to save it, and fell on top of it, right onto the messy chain and sharp chain ring. Ouch. multiple people jumped up to help me, but the only real injury was to my pride.

Riding in the rain isn’t my favourite, and I was mighty annoyed at both my hike-a-bike misadventure and falling over my bike, so I played the “name five good things” game, and it wasn’t hard to come up with them:

The views were spectacular - both the rocky shore I was riding along and I could see a silhouette of the mountains in Albania at one point
I had just eaten a fabulous breakfast and was carrying homemade treats for later
I was warm
My bike was working well and it causes me zero aches and pains
There was almost no traffic

After a bit more riding, I passed through the town of Santa Cesarea Terme, which is renowned for its thermal baths. But I was most intrigued by the pools built into the shoreline where people can access the ocean. They must be amazing to sit in on a hot summer day. But today the waves were crashing over the stairs and pools, and they looked like death traps.

My computer popped me out right as the end of the road closure. So it wasn’t all bad route selection today.

Ho hum. Another defensive tower from the 1500s. Most of them seem to be Spanish.

Typical of my views today. I was heartened to see some blue in the sky.

A fully protected harbour is required. Just small boats in this one.

There are steps and pools built into the rock. Not for today though!

It was a great day for wave watching. Squint and you might be able to see Albania.

The last bit of my cycling route had me up and over a rocky plain. I stuck to the pavement.

I appreciated a downhill end to the day. Those aren’t too common.

I did a quick walking tour of Otranto in the late afternoon darkness. My apartment in has a full kitchen, so I decided to take advantage and made myself a big salad for dinner. I do miss cooking my own food when I’m away.

Observation of the day: the bathrooms in my rental accommodations have been spotlessly clean and very new. But I’m bewildered by the condition of public toilets. Even nice cafes with clean toilets often have toilets without seats. But the weirdest thing is that in the past couple of days I’ve noticed two cafes where the men’s room had a seat, but the ladies room didn’t. Both had new fixtures, so I don’t think it’s a matter of the seat having been broken. I don’t buy the explanation I read online that the seats break from people squatting on them. In China, I believe it (and I’ve seen the footprints on the seats!) But not in Italy in 2023. Anyone else know why they leave the seat off ladies toilets?

Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 1,054 km (655 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonI think no seats make it easier to clean the toilets, it's more hygienic. But why just in the ladies' rooms?
Looks like a great ride in spite of the rain.
Hope your mom's OK!
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5 months ago

Rich FrasierSort to hear about your mom - Covid is no picnic at any age, but that’s got to be especially difficult. And your fall. Even though you didn’t break anything, things like that can really mess up your day.

I’ve been taking notes on your trip in preparation for us doing a similar trip next spring. Thanks for mentioning the names of the place you’re staying. It’s super helpful!
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5 months ago