Bex to Montreux

September 25, 2023

the beautiful Lac Leman

A short but sweet day today. We only biked 32 km to our stop, although I did bike another 8 km RT to the bike repair shop.

Last night (post blog) we went for dinner at the restaurant that is part of this B&B. Historically it was a customs house on the border between France and Switzerland, so old stone walls throughout, and a superb dinner.

Ancient walls of stone surround this wonderful restaurant.

This is the fireplace which is central to the restaurant. Hard to see but on the right there is a heavy weight hanging right at the upper floor. On the fireplace level, right under that light grey stone arm there is a cast iron time measurement contraption that looks like one of those Christmas turnstiles that is turned by candles. I was looking at it, and the manager comes up and explains the entire thing to me, then winds it up (that weight goes up high and powers it all), and lets it rip. Here's a 15s video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/i9AGglztXAY?feature=shared

It is basically a timer, and after 45 minutes the wt has fallen and the turnstile gizmo starts ringing away. More than 500 yr old!

Enormous central fireplace actually used to sear our cote de boeuf.

Now on to today. We expected somewhat of an urban ride today, as the maps look like they are passing sprawling towns. However, what you see below is typical of what we had. Flat, paved, tree-covered, with the Rhone river accompanying us the entire way. And short, did I mention that?

I thought we were getting an urban ride today?

I learned last year from some readers that these balls are mistletoe. Lots of it here, but this picture is really an excuse to show you the sky - so blue today, not a single cloud.

We happen upon this area which - if you read French - you see is a water bird sanctuary. Apparently upwards of 20,000 birds alight here for the summer to fill their bellies before taking their annual trek onwards.

You would have to look closely to see the water bird that is flying across the river just as I took this photo.

We arrive, after km's of flat, paved wonderful bike paths, to Lake Leman (as Swiss call it) or Lake Geneva as we call it. Geneva is at the west edge of the lake, Montreux is just north of Villeneuve at the east end.

The eastern tip of Lac Leman (Lake Geneva).

This Chateau is featured in every "things to do" literature we read about Montreux. I vetoed this suggested tour tomorrow before it was even mentioned by Marjory. She does like castles. However, as we later saw, walking along the lake is by far the favoured item for both of us tomorrow.

We roll up to our hotel, the receptionist sniffs and says "oh, I see you booked a Standard Room". Expecting the worst, we enter and omg, the view is, well...below!

While I head off looking for my 6th (and eventually 7th) bike shop to see if they can repair the pedal, Marjory sets off to look around the area. Down below our balcony is a walkway along the river which goes for >10 km. We are really not sure how far, but intend to find out tomorrow as we will take a day off cycling and soak in this view and weather.

A never ending stroll-way along the lake in fabulous temperatures.

And here was my 7th bike shop - called The Bike Lab - where the owner came in on his day off to fix my bike. Rebored the hole in the crank and metal-glued a bushing inside so that my pedal fits in perfectly and I can still remove the pedal as needed (for flights). Also a tube change (the front one was a bit wonky) and noticed the front disc brake needed a tweak. Wow, what a guy. A youngish fellow from Zurich, who says he has had 2 pedals fall off - both in races. "What happened?", I ask. "I lost", he says in deadpan humour.

I biked back to the hotel and out we go to dinner. Tomorrow is a quiet day, I will post a few pics of this lovely part of Switzerland. Especially we will look for that hotel featured in Smoke on the Water.....

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 240 km (149 miles)

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