Tuesday 6th August We are Over the Mon. - Retyrement on 2 Wheels - CycleBlaze

August 6, 2019

Tuesday 6th August We are Over the Mon.

Wake  to a general feeling of incipient dampness. During the night there was a thunderstorm, though with none of the intensity of rain and lightning we have experienced in past. As we sort ourselves out I strike up a conversation with our neighbours, whose accents immediately place them as antipodean, specifically from Christchurch. They are heading in the same direction as us, only they cover 100kms a day normally, which is a little out of our league. They also leave early in order to find breakfast somewhere- a saving on carrying cooking equipment.

We share the breakfast kitchen facilities with the French family who have rice with chocolate pudding for breakfast. After farewells and ‘bonne routes’ we go south, and they head north to Copenhagen. Although a little windy, it’s a good day for cycling and the skies quickly clear to sunny. 

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We had initially thought Stege would be as far as we would go but the relatively early start and the favourable weather persuade us that we should be able to cross the island of Mon (pronounced Moon) in time to catch the last ferry to the mainland at Stubbekøbing . This meant missing Mons Klimt, the famous white cliffs, which would take another day’s ride. 

 The morning passes with smooth cycling along Route 9. There are a few ups and downs and views of the sea and the wind is strongish at times but there’s always a downhill to every uphill and the twists and turns sometimes have the wind with us and sometimes against.

Crossing the high bridge over to Mon provides great views but the wind factor is a little disconcerting since there’s only a white line between us and traffic. On the other side the path to Stege is quite narrow though drivers are considerate. Route 9 is good for providing an alternative quieter, though, sometimes, slightly longer way. Over the island the harvesting of grain creates clouds of dust, but it’s good to see grain and not just acres of maize. We noted the number of roadside stalls selling or giving away a wide range of bric a brac. We choose one with tomatoes and cucumbers. 

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Once we have crossed the island we have 2 steps before reaching camping at Stubbekøbing. The first is to cross the causeway - about 3 kilometres of seemingly endless narrow cycle lane. At the end of it though, is THE FERRY. 

Already there is a cluster of cyclists around the ticket office awaiting the last ferry of the day, visible leaving the opposite shore. It’s a warm evening and our feeling of relaxation and achievement is almost palpable. We celebrate with a nougat ice cream. 85 kms needs a sugar fix. The ferry arrives and we duly board, enjoying the warm breeze on the journey over the dark water. 

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At Stubbekøbing we find the campground on the foreshore easily enough and make use of the nearby supermarket to stock up on supplies and to check out the nectarine stocks. We find some; they’re ok and will do well for breakfast, and desert, and snacking- we have quite a few and they’re heavy...

The campground is an intimate space although the 3 metre rule is observed, but there are a number of cycling couples and families. We enjoy a chat with a German couple cycling with their two children. It’s good to see family stuff going on. The Dutch couple next to us have 2 Giant Touring cycles and a giant tent. It really dwarfs our Marmot and we wonder who carries it. 

The  friskadelle - fish patties Ann managed to find go a treat with a potato and green salad. The young couple at the next table are busy chopping up a pile of carrots and a well rounded man at the other table tells Ann about how he is making bread with the mixture on the table in front of him. Later the ablution block showers prove to be a trickle, though hot. The night sky is clear and dotted with unfamiliar star constellations for perhaps our final night in Denmark.

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Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 285 km (177 miles)

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