Day 26: Chinook to Malta

June 26, 2021

The Wind is keeping us humble

“There are mosquitoes in your slip stream,” Patrick says riding behind Rachel. We are on the road early again today and have a mild tailwind. “And then they discover me, and all they have to do is turn around and slow down a bit,” he continues. There is a window of calm winds between 6 and 8am. We make good time to Harlem anticipating a café. Only to discover the café is closed on the weekend. We also had information there was road construction replacing culverts, but the project finished and we only see the evidence of the repairs.

A sheriff passes us, then we see his lights on, when we reach him, we see he is trying to herd escaped cattle from across the road. We are in cattle country with signs “Save the Cowboy stop the American Prairie Reserve”. We stop at the gas station/convenience store in Harlem for chocolate milk for Robert, and Frappuccino drinks for us, along with an egg and ham croissant. The next destination is Dodson, with some thought that we would stop there for the day, carrying on to Malta tomorrow for a half rest day and get a motel room. Holland is playing the Czech Republic in the Eurocup.

Dodson however is apocalyptic with a mini-market that is about to go belly-up and no water tower. We find picnic tables in what once must have been a park, behind one of the two closed-up bars and in front of the church, for a food break. The dilapidated tables are chained down. This is not a nice place to stay, so the unspoken decision is to keep going to Malta. The wind is picking up stronger and not in our favor. And the road has more long straight inclines with varying shoulders. Road kill also changes to snakes, turtles and prairie dogs, and maybe a badger. Patrick thinks the landscape at times is more like a savanna with grass fields, wetlands and groups of trees.

Whichever way the road goes, the wind changes from friend to foe.

We ride into Malta about 1pm. After stopping at the first gas station across from the Edgewater motel, RV Park and campground, we will explore and decide where to camp. Patrick says: “I’ll go check out the City Park, and you guys check out the RV Park, and I’ll come back here and we can decide where to stay.” Then Robert says, “how about we call each other.” We have learned so much from Robert, especially how to properly use the cell phone. This is not yet in our psyche since we only recently gave up our landline for a cell phone, and still essentially use it as a landline. Earlier in the day a RV pulling a car was coming our way. As it rattled by we notice that the car has lost its left front wheel and is running on the rim. The RV driver is oblivious to all this. Robert calls 911.

Even though the Edgewater is listed on the ACA bike maps, there is no tent camping allowed. Typically this is because RV parks don’t want to bother with keeping a restroom building clean. Patrick gives us directions to the City Park, turn left at junction 191 South through the rest area. There’s an old railroad bridge with Tafton Trail it looks like there is an unsealed bike path on the north side of the highway. We pick a shelter in the city park, there is water and toilets but no showers so another sponge bath tonight. Patrick and Robert ride into town to pick up a few things at the Albertsons, but no dinner, instead check out a Great Northern Hotel restaurant. We will walk to town and have a celebration dinner since we all have cycled over 1000 miles..

During our ride today we were able to touch base with a Warmshowers host in Glasgow. They live on a farm six miles out of town but have offered to pick us up downtown at the Albertsons.

We are hoping to take a rest day with them as well.

Leaving Belknap Indian Reservation and crossing the Milk River...again

Reached Malta, discussing options of where to stay

Rearranging the furniture to pitch the tents in the shelter

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Today's ride: 70 miles (113 km)
Total: 1,062 miles (1,709 km)

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