September 20, 2021
To Cortina d'Ampezzo
Along the Dolomites Cycleway
Today's ride from Dobbiaco to Cortina d’Ampezzo along the Dolomites Cycleway was one I’d long and eagerly anticipated. The route follows an old railway line built during WW1 and passes through a stunning Dolomite landscape that includes iconic peaks and several lakes.
It was to be a short day, less than twenty miles, so I departed a bit later than usual in the hope that the morning shroud would lift and reveal and bright and sunny day. As luck would have it, that’s exactly what I got! I could not imagine a more perfect day to experience the Dolomite Cycleway – sunshine, moderate temperatures, and a brilliant blue sky punctuated with fluffy cumulous clouds.
I picked up the Cycleway in the center of Dobbiaco and soon was on a nice crushed gravel surface heading south to Cortina d’Ampezzo. It was not long before the first eye-popping scenery caused me to come to an abrupt stop - Lago di Dobbiaco, reflecting clouds and faraway peaks. The views became more spectacular with each stroke of the pedal that propelled me along a gentle incline further into the valley. My head was on a swivel, and I stopped often for photos, each time marveling at my good fortune to have such perfect weather. There were scores of people out enjoying this splendid day on a bike, all stopping for a view of Tre Cime de Lavaredo or lingering at Lago di Lando.
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After the lake, the Cycleway got a little steeper, the surface a little rougher, the views less spectacular, and the number of cyclists greatly reduced. For next three miles, the route rose through a forest on increasingly rough roads before reaching its highest elevation and beginning the descent to Cortina d’Amprezzo. Nearing the top, I met groups of cyclists navigating their way downhill along a rough, almost single track, section of the route. They did not appear to be seasoned cyclists, and perhaps were on some sort of organized ride. My suspicions were strengthened when, on reaching the top, I encountered a group of about twenty middle-aged (or older) folks assembled in front of a bus, straddling bikes and readying to head down the rough stretch I’d just come up. I was a little skeptical of their skill set, especially when one woman fell in the parking lot. I could only shrug my shoulders and wish them well.
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From the top, it was an eight-mile downhill to Cortina d’Amprezzio, through a more forested mountains with perhaps less dramatic views than the earlier parts of the ride. It also appeared to be a very dynamic section of the valley, with evidence of rock slides/falling rock at several points along the route. After passing through were two shorts tunnels, the valley opened up and I was soon looking over the outskirts of Cortina d’Amprezzo.
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I left the cycle path and headed down to my Airbnb, where I will spend the next three nights. Knowing I had time to explore, I did some laundry, relaxed on my terrace, and took a brief nap. When I awoke, it was beginning to rain so I opted for a short grocery run for pasta, salad and fixings for breakfast. I’ll need my strength for tomorrow I hike up to Tre Cime de Lavaredo - I can’t wait, but it’s hard to imagine how it can top today.
Today's ride: 19 miles (31 km)
Total: 334 miles (538 km)
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