The forecast today was 100% chance of rain. Would this be the day the forecast was correct?
The sky was grey when I left town and headed up the Drau River towards its source near Dobbiaco. The first few miles took me through the outskirts of Lienz, passing an adventure park and what seemed like several electric stations. The valley narrowed as I continued upstream, with the mountains coming down almost to the river’s edge. The river was running fast here, forming a series of rapids as it cascaded over rocks and boulders. I spotted two kayakers who had found a calm spot at the opposite bank, just up from gate six on what appeared to be a kayak slalom course. I waited for them to head downstream, hoping for an action shot, but their conversation lasted longer than my patience.
Over the next ten miles or so, the paved tree-lined path wound between the river and a forested mountainside. It was easy and serene riding, with the almost rhythmic sound of rushing water nicely blocking the sound of traffic from the highway on the opposite side of the river. It was an isolated stretch, with only a the few small hamlets on hillsides across the highway. The weather added to the overall ambience, not detracting at all from the enjoyment of the ride. Things might have been different if this was not a Sunday. I passed several large lumber mills, with stacks and stacks of sawed planks and uncut logs. The air was heavy with the aroma of fresh cut lumber, but thankfully I was spared the cacophony of buzz saws and chain saws.
Leaving Lienz on a cloudy morning - would this be a rain day?
The valley began to widen as I gained elevation and neared Stassen. As it did so, the skies also widened and it seemed like there might be blue skies ahead. And it was true! Not only blue skies, but more bikers and folks out enjoying a nice Sunday. Then I was in Italy, without meeting a single person to check that I had filled out the proper paperwork, was vaccinated, or had a negative PCR test.
Shortly after crossing into Italy darkening clouds began to appear in the distance and I feared that the predictions of rain might actually come to fruition. The rain began shortly after passing through San Candido and I stopped to exchange my light windbreaker for a proper rain jacket. Fortunately the rain never got too intense and I stayed dry during the short distance to the Hotel Rosengarten, where I was warmly greeted by Alexander who offered me a nice cappuccino.
A nice rest stop along the trail that offers drinks, food and a toilet - but not today
The Hotel Rosengarten is a favorite of Scott and Rachael Anderson and I can understand their enthusiasm – wonderful hospitality, thoughtful details, and a six-course meal. Not to mention the splendor of the Dolomites from your terrace. At dinner, I was seated at a table next to an interesting young American couple – Aaron and Angelica. Aaron is a circus coach, specializing in aerial skills and acts while Angelica was a skater/aerialist for Cirque de Soleil and now teaches ice skating. After the second course, we were essentially one table – conversing on a range of topics from anatomy to biking to politics to virology to world travel.
Almost nothing beats delicious food and engaging dinner companions – except yet another fine day on the bike.
By dinner time, there was steady rain and light from the setting sun - which will it be tomorrow?
Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km) Total: 315 miles (507 km)
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Rachael AndersonYea, you made it to Italy! Beautiful photos! You’re right that the clouds make it more interesting. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Susan CarpenterYes, the Italian Alps are amazing! I’m off to Tre Cime today and I’ll be thinking of you climbing toward Bad Gastein. Stay strong! Reply to this comment 2 years ago
