To Montague

June 22, 2021

More on Ludington State Park

A few loose ends on yesterday’s visit to the park. First, I forgot to include a short video clip of the porcupine. I wish I’d started shooting it earlier, because I was almost too late. I was too caught up hoping to catch the moment when he’d look around, but didn’t think about it. It short, but it gives you an idea of its lazy, lumbering waddle.

Also, I went back to research what that odd chimneyed building on stilts was at the lighthouse and found this article. It’s a detailed history of the lighthouse and its associated buildings. This structure was built to house the fog signal equipment after the old building needed replacement because of erosion of the ground underneath:

By 1941, Lake Michigan had started to undermine the station’s fog signal building, making its continued use hazardous. A square, pyramidal, skeletal tower, topped by an enclosed wooden section, was erected in 1941 to house the fog signal equipment, and the old fog signal building was razed. Interlocking steel pilings were driven in front of the station in 1943 to protect the station from the advancing waters of Lake Michigan.

I guess I should have included this photo yesterday as well:

Today’s Ride

Today’s ride got off to a slow start. At 6:30 Rachael walked over to the motel office to pick up our carafe of coffee, and returned chilled - it’s only 44 degrees out. We wait around the room for the day to warm up, and it’s 10 by the time we finally get packed up to go. I wheel Rachael’s bike outside, and then turn to mine and discover that I have a flat tire. Annoying, but not a bad place to deal with it of course.

I repair the flat, replace the wheel, and discover that now my brake rubs badly. One mystery to me is why this happens sometimes - how can removing and replacing the wheel affect the brake adjustment? Whatever. I do a credible job of readjusting it, but it’s 11 by the time we finally leave. With nearly a fifty mile ride ahead, we need to get underway.

We’re riding to Montague today, biking south on US Bicycle Route 35, the 500 mile route from Canada to northern Indiana that generally follows the eastern shore of Lake Michigan.

Southbound on US 35. The first few miles out of Ludington are on this well shouldered highway, but soon we’ll leave it and follow empty secondary roads all the way to Hart, 25 miles down the road.

Cygnets! A few miles into the ride we cross the wetlands along the Pere Marquette River.

Still moving south. No shoulder any more, but almost no cars either.

Because of our late start, after only 12 miles it’s time for lunch so we stop at a convenience store by Bass Lake and pick up snacks that we consume sitting at a picnic bench outside. There’s little to choose from. I come out with milk and a package of cashews and almonds - the only one of about 15 trail mix options that does not include chocolate or candy.

Perhaps a mile later we come to Pentwater, a small fishing resort town on the Pentwater River that offers a variety of services. If we’d noticed it was on route just ahead we would have waited and taken our break there.

Looking toward the shore across Pentwater Lake.

Some miles later we come to the village of Hart, the northern terminus of the Hart-Montague Bike Trail, one of the first rail-trail conversions in Michigan. For the next 23 miles we ride its smooth, paved surface through a tunnel of green, passing many northbound bikers on the way, including several travelers.

At the northern entrance to the Hart-Montague Bike Trail.

It’s like this most of the way to Montague, with minor variations. Easy, relaxed riding, but the views are a bit limited.

It’s just turning 4 when we arrive at our room and check in to our surprisingly palatial suite. We’re starving so we take a pass on the jacuzzi, opting instead for hasty showers before we rush off to dinner. Our restaurant is in Whitehall, the neighboring town just on the other side of the bridge across the White River. Mylan’s Riverside Grill sits on a low bluff above the river. It’s perfect out this afternoon - sunny, mid-sixties, the wind has died down. We take an outside table and enjoy a fine view across the valley as we share a Michigan cherry salad and Atlantic salmon.

Seems spacious enough. And there’s a jacuzzi! We can live here while we wait to close on that gothic church back in Manitowoc.

The view from our table, at Mylan’s Riverside Grill.

As pleasurable as dinner is, our walk to and from our motel nearly outshines it. Our walk crosses the White River, which opens up at this point into a wide, algae-coated bay. The bay itself is very colorful, and full of life this evening - geese, blackbirds, gulls, herons, turtles, even a few charming families of wood ducks. A great wildlife adventure to end our day with.

We saw several turtles basking on the snags, all of which immediately dropped into the water as soon as they sensed our presence. I’m really impressed at how quickly they picked up on us - we never did get very close before they disappeared.

We see millions of geese of course, but this one with its green backdrop felt worth remembering.

This heron and I startled each other when he suddenly appeared above the row of sandbags placed to protect the road from flooding. He didn’t stay put for long.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 47 miles, 1,400’; for the tour: 912 miles, 26,700’

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 912 miles (1,468 km)

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Rich FrasierI always say that the only thing better than a porcupine picture is a porcupine video. Well, I don’t often say that really but you’ve given me a rare opportunity. :) Enjoying your journey!
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2 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierWell stated! That must be one of those bon mots we hear so much about.
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2 years ago