May 5, 2025
49: tailwinds, escher, mike and ed, no weed, karo, dad joke, a little gravel, the gate, church break, big bird, severe thunderstorm, dylan, b&b
Bracey to Blackstone
My first day of riding was on 18 March, almost two months ago. During that time I've had a headwind maybe three or four days. Of the remaining days, one of them was relatively no wind, and the rest were tailwinds.
If you don't cycle much, you may not understand the significance of that. It's the cycling equivalent of winning the lottery, then winning it again the following day, then again every single day for a month straight.
The wind, which one friend told me is "a great training partner," is so fickle that on an out-and-back ride from my house I've had a headwind in both directions. Hills? Mountains? No problem.... You go up, then you get to go down. Wind? Not so much.... You ride all day against it, then you continue riding against it, and it can really become demoralizing.
In our journals we mention the weather on a regular basis because it can define a tour, for good or bad. We mention the traffic, and the roads, for the same reason.
That's four paragraphs simply to say that I've become so accustomed to a tailwind that when I was riding this morning I thought I had a headwind, when I simply didn't have a tailwind.
The town of Bracey, at least the corner I'm in, only has three buildings (a hotel, an excellent Mexican food restaurant, and a convenience store with a Quiznos and a Pizza Hut), making it the perfect stop for a cyclist. What else do we need?
After finishing breakfast I went back outside and was about to leave when Mike asked me about my trip. After a few minutes he poked his head back in the door and summoned his dad, Ed, to come out. The elder Smith has done a lot of cycling and Mike thought he'd want to meet me.
Mike owns and manages the convenience store; Ed is retired. As you've probably noted from previous encounters, I usually find out at least as much information as I pass along about myself, but in this case they were so interested in my trip that the scales weren't as balanced during this encounter.
What I do know is that Ed used to ride a lot but stopped because of some health issues. Interestingly, those same health issues haven't stopped some of the people on CycleBlaze from touring, even the ones who are a decade or more older. He was a bit surprised to hear about that. I encouraged him to climb back in the saddle and take at least an overnighter (it would be a "gateway" trip, I'm sure), especially since he said his doctor would think it's okay.
Because Ed was familiar with bike trails as far as D.C. and Maryland, he let me know what to expect. We talked for a long time, more than 45 minutes, so I got off to a late start. It was, however, time well spent and I was glad for the visit. As I've mentioned before, the point of a bike trip isn't the arriving, it's the getting there and, more importantly, the people I meet along the way.
Two of the questions they asked were firsts:
"Do you ever get tired of riding?" The question wasn't about physical stamina, but instead about getting burned out. I gave it some thought, and determined that it could certainly happen, and might at some point, but it's never happened to me yet. The question made me wonder about people who ride most of the year, the Andersons, the Millers, the Hugens, and others, whether they simply get tired of the road.
The second question was "What surprised you most about this trip?" My brain started scanning, processing everything I've seen, but I wasn't able to come up with a single item. That sentence can be interpreted two ways: (1) Nothing at all surprised me, or (2) Of the many items I can't come up with just one.
It's the latter, because I'm surprised by everything. The weird towel rack, the fact that a tree can see so much abuse and still flourish, that a dive bar in Port Orange could fill me with so much happiness, that a tree on the side of the road can have almost 50,000 followers on Facebook , that the gender of a turtle depends on the temperature of the sand the egg is nesting in, and, of course, the thing I'm surprised about every time I go on tour: that in spite of what you see online and in the news, people are basically good. My faith in humanity is restored with each trip.

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That fence is the first one without a Posted or No Trespassing sign I've seen since I started on this trip more than a thousand miles ago. That's the best welcome Virginia could offer.

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There were a couple of workers so I slowly rolled up to them and asked about getting through.
"There's no way. You're gonna need to head back to the detour."
I'd been keeping an eye out for a detour sign, and on a bike you don't really miss something like that, especially when you're looking for it (and especially when you ride as slowly as me). There wasn't a detour sign. I was sure of it, and I told him so.
Quite cavalierly, he said it is there, and that there's no way to cross the river.
"You mean there's a big gap? Literally no way to cross?"
A nod, somewhat smug.
I just stood there a minute, straddling my bike, as if he were going to recant his statement, or that, miraculously, there actually was a way to get across the river.

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As I was just standing there, looking pathetic, another man ambled over. In an instant, he took in my bike (and probably my forlorn expression) and asked "Traveling by bike?"
"I am."
"Well, we don't normally let anyone pass, but since you're on a bike, follow me."
Without even glancing at the other two workers (a nod, somewhat smug, would've been nice) I walked with him across the new white concrete to where there actually was a bridge. If you look at the previous road picture, the brown item on the center right is a ramp, so I didn't even have to lift my bike up.
Wanting to savor the moment (and to get a few pictures), I walked instead of pedaling. The far side of the bridge was also complete, with no gaping maw to prevent me from crossing.
The words "Thank you," "I really appreciate this," and "Thank you SO much" sprayed from my mouth like water from a fire hydrant, approaching the point of obsequious fawning, so I hope he realizes how appreciative I was.

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I started pedaling hard, not minding if I got rained on but preferring not to feel any large chunks of ice hitting my new helmet, or having to ride through small bodies of water. Even though the temperature was only in the mid-70s I could feel my core temperature rising as I pushed hard on the pedals.

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Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 1,339 miles (2,155 km)
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