Day 27 - Cortina to Bressanone - 9 1/2 Weeks - Copenhagen to Lecce 2019 - CycleBlaze

October 15, 2019

Day 27 - Cortina to Bressanone

Who Doesn't Like Tuesday?

Tuesday has become my favorite day of the week. There are no crowds, most places are open for business and the weather is always perfect.

There is absolutely no objective evidence for the last assertion, but these days that does not seem to matter. I'm sticking with it.

For anyone out there who's reading this after coming home from a day at work right after Thanksgiving, I'll offer some empathy, and sympathy. For folks who are sciving and reading this at their desk, come on ... face reality and retire. It's better over here.

Alright, my smug moment is over, but today was one of those Tuesday's that make retirement so sweet. Everything I said in the opening para was true today. We essentially retraced our steps from Sunday, but aside from the weather, the contrast of the (specifics) of the days was quite remarkable.

Both days were great, but today there was no traffic, either bike or car / trucks, and the real sweet spot ... today was almost all downhill. We felt like e-bikers! (couldn't resist that).

Although we basically did Sunday in reverse, we did mix a few things up. First, after gaining the high point out of Cortina on the hard pack gravel bike path, we switched over to the SS51 highway for the run down to Toblach. We were at the summit at around 9:50, 10 minutes before any traffic seems to come on any road, and also it was Tuesday ... did I mention that?... so there was no traffic on road. Perfect pavement and a 20 km gentle downhill cruise into Toblach. Heaven!

From Toblach we had the same (mostly) paved bike path all the way to Bressanone. However, to keep life interesting, there was a section that had been closed with with the only alternative route being the still reasonably busy highway. We, of course, ignored the closure barriers and continued along the path. We rode this 48 hours ago and it was perfect. What could be different.

About 4 km past the barriers we found out. There were a couple of mini-backhoes that were digging up the bike path and installing a conduit underneath it. Where this was happening was at a section where the bike path was on the opposite side of the river from any other roads. We were committed!

Luckily it was around lunch time and there were no workers in sight ( the backhoes were still warm though and there was a ~30 m long trench where the bike path used to be!). We unloaded our bikes, ferried our panniers and bikes past the trench and carried on. About 5 km later we came to the barrier on the east end where there were signs posted saying that the path was closed from 14 October (yesterday!) until April 2020.   That's ok, we won't be back again until after that!

Not much more to add, other than the weather forecast was out by a few hours, in our favour. The forecast called for light rain throughout the day increasing to heavy at night. We had lovely sunshine all day long and the rain finally came when we were having dinner! The cycling was even finished at 4:30 ! K was very pleased with that. Check out the elevation profile on the map below and you will see why.

We had a small lottery win on our hotel and dinner place tonight too. The Hotel Traube is lovely and they have a restaurant in the Old Town (M. Michelin recommended too!) that we sampled . Both were excellent in every respect.

Could not have had a better Tuesday.

Song of the Day, what else ... Ruby Tuesday by the Rolling Stones.

Don't question why she needs to be so free

She'll tell you it's the only way to be

She just can't be chained

To a life where nothing's gained

Or nothing's lost, at such a cost

Lot's of other stuff in the running for today too, but they will have to wait for another day.

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Beautiful sunshine and no rain leaving Cortina this morning!
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On the road at just after 9 ... about 15 km of gradual uphill and then 80 of downhill !
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Nice to see this view today... going north towards Toblach. Climbing on the gravel bike path
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We switched over to the highway for the ride down to Toblach. There was a lot of traffic on this on Sunday ... today ... almost nothing. Gotta Love Tuesday!
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... about 20 kmn of this ... bliss
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Clouds gathering over the Tre Cime's
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...but still clear to the north where we are heading
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..ummmm. Think I'll still take the Toute Terrain
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One day more and ignoring the 'closed trail' signs could have been more problematic. We rode this 48 hours ago and none of this was here!
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At the western end of this section we saw some signs indicating the trail would be closed from 14 Oct (yesterday) until April 2020
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A great lunch on the patio at the Post Hotel in Brunico ... still lots of sunshine ... except for the 'put that camera away when we're having lunch' face'
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Churches everywhere. I don't have a big enough SD card to take a pic of every one!
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The very lovely Hotel Traube - recommend it if you are ever in Bressanone -
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Very discreet entrance into the hotel off a quiet street across from a monastery
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strolling through the old town on our way to dinner - walking past the cathedral we heard organ music coming from inside
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A service was just ending, we caught the last few minutes of the organ playing
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... all silent now
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silhouetted against the last of the light
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There are apple orchards everywhere around here, and several large juice processing plants ... it was the 'Apple Festival' over the weekend, and one restaurant is paying a little tribute in their window
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can't resist pics of beautiful vintage bikes
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...or folks plying traditional trades
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Interesting cultural awareness moment at dinner at the excellent Restaurant Trauben Wirt. Since this is South Tirol. Everything is still in German and Italian ... like this page from the menu. All the pages in the menu were like this ... except
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This one. German and English. I don't think the Italians have the concept of a 'Kids menu' ... and all the more power to them for that. No kid needs a Tater Tot or a Chicken Finger (or Lip). Give 'em real food and they will eat it, just like you do. And everyone will be better for it!
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Doing my bit to celebrate the apple festival.
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Here's to you Tuesday!
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Today's ride: 96 km (60 miles)
Total: 1,835 km (1,140 miles)

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