Out of the Wilderness: Suggan Buggan to Buchan

September 27, 2012

Day 6
Thursday 27 September 2012
Suggan Buggan to Buchan

Our luck stretched to a sixth day of clear weather though a change seemed to be on the way with high cloud and warm air blowing down the valley.

Our tents were surprisingly dew-free and we were able to pack up camp from the very pleasant Suggan Buggan site early.

We'd anticipated a hard climbing start to the day but were pleasantly surprised the climb was rideable in low gear even though it was most definitely up and up for a long way.

The road surface was newly graded and the gradient, though steep, was manageable.

After about 15 km we'd reached about 960 metre from a start of 390 metre at the Suggan Buggan camp.

The views across forested mountains and deep valleys were, again, brilliant at every turn.

Almost no traffic for most of the day. The first two passer-bys even stopped and had a chat. Later in the day, near Buchan, there was some minor local traffic.

Hamilton Gap was the road high point and marked a noticeable change in geography from rugged, mountainous bush to a some rural holdings. From there we headed to a roadhouse called Seldom Seen hopeful getting some supplies. It was closed and appeared derelict. Later in the day we learned that it's long time, well known and highly respected owner Dave Woodburn (photo and notes below) had passed away earlier in the year.

About 16 km on there was a small service centre with a tiny store. From a short rest there we pushed on to Buchan.

Though the overall elevation fall from Hamilton Gap to Buchan was some 600 metres, it was an undulating and physically testing ride.

Buchan was a welcome sight. We stayed in a well appointed back-packers called the Buchan Lodge. A great place at a very reasonable price.

Buchan is a very pleasant, small town. Cave-based tourism and services for what looks to be a rich rural area seem to be the mainstay of the town.

After three days cycling through the remote high country, the comforts of civilisation were appreciated. Showers, clothes washing, meals, and phones were enthusiastically used.

The weather forecast is for rain and strong winds. If so it will possibly be a rest day in Buchan for us tomorrow.

A note posted by Warren Hudson on the Australian Bicycle Forum about Dave Woodburn:

"Over the years many touring cyclists have travelled along the Snowy River Road across the Gelantipy Plateau and on the Barry Way beside the Snowy River. They would have met and not forgotten the humour and larger than life figure of Mobil Dave from the Seldom Seen Roadhouse.

If you stuff up on a back track in the Indi or the Byadbo, Mobil Dave will come and tow your car.
When you lose it on the dirt and you get hurt, Mobil Dave will always give you his hand.

If your horse casts a plate, the person to call in this back country who will make you laugh ... is Mobil Dave, 'The Man from Snowy River'.

David John Woodburn (Born England 1941, died in Melbourne 2012) and Jess his dog, at the Seldom Seen Roadhouse in the Indi Wilderness.

Although Dave's rustic look might not look it, to back country travellers in need of a hand, he was the closest thing to Florence Nightingale going ... out in this isolated neck-of-the-Indi.

Those who met Dave will no doubt relate to the following words from Dave's Brother Tim; "Thanks for the great adventures, good times and humour mate. No one will ever pull off 70 going on 21 again like you did it. love you Dave."

Molais Gibson: "An awesome, free thinking, truly individual man, fondly remembered and missed by many. R.I.P. David."

I (Warren Hudson) met Dave many years ago, when I was working as a bushwalking guide. Over the past decade, we would lament how badly Essendon were going, and then brighten each other up by remembering the Bomber's good years. He was a staunch Dons supporter. I used to race in the Marlay to Paynesville Classic on the Gippsland Lakes each March, up until a couple of years ago (2010). I'd call into the Seldom Seen Roadhouse (via Wulgulmerang) and sit in the old caravan and chat. The reason we sat in the caravan and chatted was the Seldom Seen Roadhouse fell victim to the 2003 bushfires, and the business was burned to the ground. Dave and Jess the dog survived by taking shelter in the dam. The last time I visited Dave he was still rebuilding, but almost finished. We chatted as the cats, dog and chooks wandered freely.

(a photo of Dave Woodburn is posted below)

Distance 82.1 km
Average 13.2 km/ hr
Maximum 69.9 km/ hr
6 hrs 12 mins riding