In Málaga, day 1

November 20, 2019

Málaga was never in our plans for this tour. The original plan, if we had biked down to the coast from Córdoba, was to take a hilly route through Zuheros, Montefrio, Alhama de Granada and Vélez-Málaga. We’ve seen some of this country before and it would have been a beautiful if challenging four or five day ride. We’d have definitely gone this way if the weather were cooperative.

Malaga itself though was a place we were intentionally avoiding. We flew in here on our first tour and weren’t especially impressed. Just a big, busy city that we were happy to escape the morning after we arrived.

We didn’t really give it a chance then, arriving jet lagged late in the afternoon at the end of the long flight, on a short time budget and anxious to be on the road. In fact, it’s quite a special place and we’re excited about being here for several days. An excellent place to hole up while we wait for the rains to move on.

This morning the weather is unexpectedly fair - warm, partly cloudy. These are probably the best hours we’ll see here, so we step out the door to get in the best walk we can before the rains arrive.

Walking up the hill toward Gilbarfaro. It’s a beautiful walk, with views that just keep getting better as you climb. It’s a walk we’d be happy to take often.

Looking west across Malaga from below the Gibralfaro. We’re really fortunate to be having this break in the weather so we can appreciate the views.

La Malagueta, Málaga‘s bull ring. It’s a historical monument,in use since 1876.

Looking across the bay, all the ships seem to be heading for shore. In another hour the rains will arrive.

The cathedral, also known as La Manquita (the One-Armed Lady), because its second tower was never completed.

By midday the rains were just arriving, so we stopped in at a cafe for lunch and returned to our apartment for the next few hours. By mid-afternoon they passed on so we went out again, this time primarily to walk through the belt of gardens that parallel the waterfront.

The gardens of Málaga are really quite remarkable. Very lush, very diverse, they remind me of Menton. This must be an intoxicating place to visit when it’s in full bloom. Particularly fascinating is the long Parque de Málaga. Interlaced with pathways weaving beneath exotic trees from around the world and featuring scattered sculptures and fountains, it is a fantastic place to stroll. Every other tree you pass seems remarkable.

For dinner we went to Helas, an authentic Greek restaurant, of all places. We were really surprised to find a Greek restaurant here, the first we’ve seen in Spain. We chatted with the Greek owner (from Sparta) who kept stopping by our table to look at our photos from the day and then calling Carmen (his Spanish wife, whom he met in Sparta long ago) over to look also. They’re new to Malaga, having just relocated here this year from Seville where they ran this restaurant for last 25 years.

So far, Málaga checks off all the boxes: warm, beautiful, walkable, bikeable, good restaurants, an airport. We could be back some winter.

This is the most amazing Ceiba I’ve ever seen.

Another amazing tree. There are quite a few ceibas here, of different varieties. The garden is a bit of an arboretum, and many of the trees are labeled.

There are many monk parakeets in these gardens, as well as several other species of parrot. They thrive on the vegetation in these parks, especially on the large rubber trees.

So what is this climber, anyway? He’s growing up the side of a Canary Island pine.

This was interesting. I assume this is some sort of photoactive glass or plastic. The material looks clear in the right light, but takes its color from the objects behind it.

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Jen RahnLove that you had the flexibility to re-direct and Málaga looks like the perfect place to spend a few days.

I think I could just wander around checking out the jaw-dropping trees.

Nice to see the changes in the video and photos. And the great cycling paths!
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4 years ago

Carolyn van HoeveWe very much enjoyed Malaga too. Bruce just read your post from Carmona to Ecija and assures me the river was substantially higher!
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonThat’s what hip waders are for, silly. Did you forget to take them along?
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnIt’s been a great interlude. Very therapeutic. The bruises are healing, the rains are passing as I speak, and we’re ready to roll again.
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4 years ago