Day 12: Jackson to Signal Mountain Lodge

June 11, 2023

Today is my main day to see Grand Teton National Park. I consider it to be the highlight of the tour. When first planning this tour I considered doing it in reverse to go downstream. But I decided it would be better to have the Grand Tetons as my goal instead of starting with the Tetons in my rear view mirror.

I saw the Grand Tetons during a bike tour in early September 2004. That time of year has much warmer, sunnier weather than early June. I'm disappointed that the big tits are mostly hiding behind clouds now.

I got on the road early at 8 AM, hoping to beat the predicted afternoon showers. The weather forecast was wrong. Rain started at 9 AM.

Today's route is 80% on bike paths. The Jackson Hole valley has an extensive network of bike paths. That's one advantage of being so wealthy. From the Super 8 motel I only pedaled on roads for about a mile before getting on the bike path network that takes me all the way to Grand Teton National Park.

I could have pedaled a different bike path straight north from Jackson, but I pedaled the quieter and more scenic Moose-Wilson road route which is west of the Snake river, closer to the base of the Grand Tetons. I had never seen that route before. The bike path crosses the Snake river on a beautiful bicycle bridge that is separated from the highway bridge. It's quiet and pastoral on the bicycle bridge. It's Sunday but I saw very few cyclists on the trail. Probably because today is cold and rainy.

Bike path approaching the "Path 22 West" bridge crossing the Snake river.

It's Sunday but I saw very few cyclists on the trail today. Probably because it's cold and rainy. I pedaled through light rain from 9-10 AM, temperature 52F. I wore jacket and gloves for the first time. June in Wyoming!

The bridge is 1/4 mile long, completed in 2014. Used by cross country skiers during winter.

This is today's only view of the flowing Snake river. For most of the day I will be miles west of the river. The day ends at Jackson lake which is a reservoir on the Snake river.

View upstream from one of the bridge balconies.

West of the Snake river the bike trail stays close to Moose Wilson road. The road is to my right. The Grand Tetons and many upscale gated subdivisions are on the left. These subdivisions contain some of the most expensive houses in the nation. I couldn't see any of them because they are hidden behind trees and security gates. The subdivisions are about 10 miles outside of the city of Jackson, but close to the Teton Village ski area which is the largest and most upscale ski area in Jackson Hole.

Wet bike path going north with a view of the Teton Village ski slopes.

The bike trail ends a couple miles north of Teton Village, at the entrance to Grand Teton National Park. At the entry station I paid $80 for a lifetime "America the Beautiful" senior pass. You have to be 62 years old to qualify. I just turned 62 five days ago.

I'm on roads again for 6 miles in this remote southwest corner of the park. Moose Wilson road has long been paved outside the park but was gravel in the park. Now the 6 mile park road is being paved. The first 3 miles in the park was wet construction gravel. It was easy to ride on but my bike got very dirty. I was happy to have fenders.

Amusing sign where the bike path ends at the entrance to Grand Teton National Park.

The final 3 miles of Moose Wilson road were on brand new unpainted pavement. That was nice. The road has very little traffic during the construction.

Newly paved Moose Wilson road crossing Lake Creek.

Moose Wilson road connects to Teton Park road and the parallel bike path in the village of Moose. Moose has the main visitor center and the large administrative headquarters building for Grand Teton National Park. Just past the visitor center is the main entry station for motorists entering Grand Tetons from the south. There was a very long queue of cars waiting to show their pass or pay the entry fee.

Bike path passing a long queue of cars on Teton Park road at the Moose entrance station.

I was happy that cyclists have access to a separate, less crowded, route with its own pay station. I didn't use the pay station, though. I showed my new lifetime pass to the ranger in the road kiosk 50 feet away.

The bike path has an entry fee payment machine. This is only 50 feet from the staffed road entry station.

Inside the park the bike path parallels Teton Park road but is usually several hundred feet away so the traffic noise is not annoying.

Wide open view but the Big Tits are kind of shy today.

I regularly saw large numbers of cars on the road and parked cars at overlooks and trailheads. But the bike path allows me to avoid most of the congestion. I feel like a voyeur watching the hapless motorists wait in line and search for parking spaces.

Bike path passing an overflowing trailhead parking lot.

I passed the dock for the Jenny Lake hiker ferry. It's Sunday afternoon. I knew it would be crowded. I considered taking the ferry and hiking to Inspiration Point, but decided not to because the weather is uncooperative. In 2004 I rode the hiker ferry and did a day hike in Cascade canyon. It was less crowded and the weather was much better then.

At Jenny Lake I stopped at the park store to buy a sandwich and a Grand Teton National Park sticker. $11 for the sandwich and $6 for the sticker.

I pedaled past the queue for the Jenny Lake hiker ferry.

I pedaled the bike path along the east shore of Jenny Lake. The first mile was extremely crowded with tourists. Wait in line to take a photo at the best overlooks. Crowds thinned out as I pedaled farther north, away from the big parking lot.

Looking across Jenny Lake towards the ferry dock.

At the south end of Jenny lake the bike trail is actually a narrow old road that is closed to motor vehicles. The old road has occasional lake views through the trees. A separate hiking trail goes very close to the lake shore. It has outstanding lake and mountain views. I doubt bikes are allowed on that trail. It's very crowded with hikers. I walked the trail a short distance to find a waterfront spot to eat my sandwich.

Looking across Jenny Lake into Cascade canyon. I hiked there in 2004.

The road is quite unusual at the north end of the Jenny Lake Scenic Loop. For motorists the scenic loop is a 1-way road in the opposite direction. In my direction the road is for bicycles only. That explains why the right lane is narrower than the left lane.

Jenny Lake scenic loop. 1 way for motorists. The right lane is for bicycles only.

I turned off the Scenic Loop on a short dead end to String lake. I had never been there before. It has a huge picnic area and many people were paddling on the lake. I even saw people wading in the lake even though the air temperature was 60F.

I detoured to smaller String lake which is popular for swimming and paddling.

The Jenny Lake Scenic Loop connects to the main Teton Park road. I continued north towards Jackson Lake. The road has some traffic but the speed limit is 45 mph. Thru trucks are all farther east on US 89.

Grand Tetons from Teton Park road. Clouds are rising but the biggest tits are still hiding.

I enjoyed the wide open views of the Grand Tetons. Clouds were gradually rising, so I could see gradually more tits. Unfortunately the sun angle is gradually worse as the afternoon progresses. The park road is mostly in sagebrush high desert, but occasionally goes into a grove of trees.

I climbed a hill between Jenny lake and Jackson lake. The hilltop is 6993 feet elevation, the highest elevation of the tour. 2132 meters.

Wide view of the Grand Tetons from the park road. Grand Teton and Mount Moran still shrouded.

I turned off Teton Park road into Signal Mountain Lodge which is on the shore of Jackson Lake with spectacular Teton views. I arrived at 2:50 PM, at about the check-in time. Of course a lodge like this is very expensive. My cabin cost $333 for one night, but it has the best balcony view that I have experienced in my lifetime.

View southwest from my balcony at Signal Mountain Lodge.

View northwest from my balcony at Signal Mountain Lodge.

I walked out onto the public boat dock to take a photo of the lodge itself. Nearly all of the modern rooms have an unobstructed view of the Grand Tetons. Another boat dock is below the main restaurant/lodge building. That dock is gated, with a gasoline pump, used for commercial tours.

View of Signal Mountain Lodge from the public dock.

I was pleased to see that Jackson lake is nearly full now, 6760 feet elevation. The water level was 20 feet lower when I was here in September 2004. That year the Colter Bay marina never opened because the docks were on dry ground all summer.

Signal Mountain Lodge also has several historic log cabins. The log cabins don't have the mountain view, though. Signal Mountain Lodge is one of 3 lodges in Grand Teton National Park-Colter Bay, Signal Mountain, and Jenny Lake. I think this lodge has by far the best views.

I camped at the Signal Mountain campground during the first night of my 2004 Yellowstone and Grand Tetons bike tour. The campground is surrounded by pines, a long walk from the lakefront mountain views. A very different lifestyle from tonight's luxury cabin.

Signal Mountain Lodge also has several historic log cabins. This is 3 cabins clustered together.

I enjoyed the views even though I was looking into the setting sun. I'm hoping for fewer clouds tomorrow morning when the sun angle will be excellent. The temperature rose to 65F in late afternoon with occasional moments of sunshine.

I was monitoring the clouds over the highest peaks. A few minutes before sunset the clouds finally dissipated above Grand Teton, the highest peak.

The Big Tit is momentarily revealed just before sunset.

By sunset a cloud was starting to form again on Grand Teton. I was hoping for a flash of red clouds at sunset but it was too cloudy. Colors were muted.

What a day! I had an hour of cold rain. I saw some crowded places but never had to wait in line. I'm glad I pedaled the Moose-Wilson back road route west of the Snake river that I had never seen before.

Lunch was minimal, so at 4:30 PM I went to have dinner at the lodge restaurant which has awesome lake and mountain views. I would have to go many miles to find another restaurant. While eating dinner I watched a little bit of rain outside.

Weather was far from ideal but it was a good day overall. I'm feeling strong and only have one more day of pedaling before the tour ends.

I lost a glove today. When the temperature warmed up I put gloves in my jacket pockets. An hour later I removed the jacket and a glove was missing.

Distance: 41.2 mi.
Average Speed: 8.4 mph
Ascent/Descent: +1460/-750 ft.

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 447 miles (719 km)

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George HallYou wrote; "I paid $80 for a lifetime "America the Beautiful" senior pass." I bought my pass at the entrance to Yellowstone in 2015 while riding the Transam route - it was only $10 at that time and I think it paid for itself just with that day admission into Yellowstone! It has certainly paid for itself many times over since then. Even though you paid more for yours, you will recover that cost quickly with the discounted admission price you get at federal and most state parks. Getting older has a few perks.
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9 months ago

Wayne EstesThe pass isn't accepted at state parks, but I suppose most state parks have a discounted "senior" entry fee. Sometimes it pays to be old!
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9 months ago