To Almonaster La Real, Spain

July 5, 2023

Strava gave Jacinto 3,900 feet of climbing. I think that number makes us look tougher!

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Gregory Garceau3,900 feet of climbing definitely does make you look tougher. I'm a tough guy, but it's been a long time since I've done that in one day.
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9 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo Gregory GarceauThank you for validating my opinion!
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9 months ago

I'm not sure if I sweet talked or guilted Jacinto into riding with me today. Usually we don't ride together on climbing days as I'm slow but sure, and he stands up and climbs fast. I told him I like having a navigator through towns, because I get really lost on the little streets.

He agreed reluctantly to leave at 7. The truth? We left at 7:45. He just doesn't move well in the mornings.

We were on an A road for about half the day. It was just fine. I was expecting heavy traffic. We did have a few cars close to town as we were leaving, but then cars were occasional, plus we had a shoulder the entire time.

The wild card this morning was the wind blowing so hard that we could hear it in our room with the AC going. Holy moly! This was the biggest climbing day of the entire trip AND we have to fight a head wind? That is more fun than I can stand. I could hardly eat my breakfast for wondering if I had what it took to face two physical challenges this morning.

We were in the kitchen having breakfast as the working men were leaving. They had been up late last night (ahem), but here they were, on the way to work at 6. They had to be there at 7, and worked until 2. After that it is too hot to work. I didn't ask the type of work, but they were dressed in work clothes and had a giant water jug.

We were out the door soon after them. The main door locks as you close it. I had thoughts of forgetting my helmet inside, but we got out with all of our things.

We had a climb from the get go. It was a mile and a half, against the wind, in the bottom of the granny. I had some trouble wrestling the bike against the wind. The bonus is that when we dropped over the other side of the mountain, we left the wind behind! Now I was back to pacing myself for the climb.

I ate apricots periodically throughout the day.Jacinto and I shared an apple and some peanuts at the corner to the HU road. I was really, really hoping for a gas station so I could have a sugary drink, but the only one we saw was closed. I also ate an entire tube of Hammer Perpetum tablets! Most of those were on the final approach. At the top of a significant climb, I requested a slug of pickle juice. That went down just right. Pickle juice shots aren't my usual drink.

My day was spent trying to ignore the numbers on the computer, reminding myself to look around, and turning the pedals. Slowly, so slowly, but I always get there. Jacinto waited for me periodically. There was one spot that he said was 12%, and I wished I had an extra gear. Mostly it was Colorado style climbing. Much of the ride reminded me of Highway 65 on the backside of the Black Canyon. The top, almost to town, was very narrow and twisty, similar to the narrows on the Independence Pass climb.

We called our host when we reached the edge of town. Of course, we got lost trying to find the house, and had to ask for directions. Antonio had said it was across from 'the' church. But, there were two! He was waiting on the step to the house. I immediately took his place, and wondered what it would take to get me to move. We had ridden uphill on the cobblestones all the way through town, around and around. As I was sitting there, a woman I had said a breathless hello to, came back and gave me a bottle of water. I thought I must look really bad if a random stranger was giving me water. It turns out that she was Antonio's wife, and she had forgotten to leave a bottle of water in the house.

Antonio said he has lived here his entire 66 years and that Almonaster is the most beautiful town in all of Spain. To my limited experience, I agree with him. The town's streets are all an exact cobblestone pattern in white and gray rocks. The houses are ALL freshly whitewashed. the whole town is crisp and clean. It is low key here, few people, there's a mesquita (mosque) to see, and the typical old buildings. It was worth the climb to get here. You never thought I'd say that, eh?

Antonio had pointed out the roof of a restaurant from the back terrace of the house. The question is how to we get there are the cyclist walks, and not as the bird flies. Jacinto called several restaurants, to confirm one was open. He found one that the woman said she would stay open for us. We hurried on over. I remarked on the walk to Jacinto that we are finally high enough in mountains for it to be cool in the afternoon. It was not cool in the restaurant! By the time we left, I was hot. We walked over to the mosque. There is a path all the way around the exterior. Just as I was despairing of being able to see inside, we found an entrance. We were the only ones there. We sat in two different doorways, enjoying the view, and talking about what it must have been like when the mosque was built. Jacinto thinks they built it on the hill for the breeze, not as a defensive position!

This charming town is definitely worth a visit.

I discovered a booking error. I double booked hotel rooms for tomorrow night - in two different towns! Booking.com did give me a notice about that - at the very bottom of my long list of bookings. I think they should put that notice at the top of the page! In red. It was my error. At this point, I have no idea how I did that. We were scheduled to go to Encinasola. Antonio gave a verbal "Pfft" and flapped his hands when we said where we were headed next. Encinasola is nothing compared to Almonaster! The other town I had booked was Frenegal de la Sierra. It is roughly the same miles and climbing as Encinasola. I think (who knows?) that I changed the route because it's an N road to Frenegal, and a smaller road to Encinasola. More pleasant riding?

I'm just discovering my mistake 24 hours in advance. Too late for a refund. The hotel in Frenegal sounds nicer, Jacinto says lets go there. So, there we are going.

I really thought I would get a nap today, but we've been too busy. I'm going to sleep well tonight - if the church bell across the street doesn't keep me awake!

The sunrise from our bathroom window. Why do our bathrooms have the best views?

The terrace door was interesting. Turn the handle one way, and it opens like this for ventilation. Turn it the other way, and it’s a regular door. I think we need these doors in the US!

A eucalyptus tree, complete with shedding bark.

Here’s a naked one. I don’t know the story of how it gets naked.

These unattractive bushes were all of the mountainside the last half of the ride. Only a few had blossoms.

The final approach was one lane for about four miles. Jacinto said that had 1,000 feet of climbing and he was happy to finally be sweating. I had been sweating most of the day from the effort!

There were two houses below town with solar. I wonder if the electricity doesn’t reach that far.

I carried a eucalyptus twig so Jacinto could confirm the odor. He said yes.

Here are those wind turbines. There were there for a reason.

At the top of the biggest climb, I drank shots of pickle juice to revive me. It worked.

Jacinto says I didn’t look too perky there.

We were hoping for a gas station in this tiny town. They did have a church. The only woman we saw did not return my greeting.

Of course we are going to the top of the climb, where there is a mesquita, or mosque.

All of these are mosque photos. We were the only ones inside. We sat in the cool breeze and enjoyed the view. Jacinto’s opinion is that it was built on top of the hill for the breeze, not as a defense position.

Our lodging is right in front of the church below. This view is from the mosque.

The main business area of the town has sun shades. I think that’s an excellent idea!

The church in front of the house has storks.

Today's ride: 41 miles (66 km)
Total: 762 miles (1,226 km)

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