To Fregenal de La Sierra, Spain - Climbs, Castles, And Cobblestones in Spain And Portugal 2023 - CycleBlaze

July 6, 2023

To Fregenal de La Sierra, Spain

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I don't know how the church bell didn't keep us awake all night long. We didn't hear a thing! Jacinto had the AC turned so low, that we were both freezing all night. He refused to change the temperature, because the last time he did that, it was too hot. I got a blanket from the other room, and still slept with the covers over my head to stay warm. The other bedroom had no AC at all, or I would have moved there.

We did the morning routine. I told Jacinto I wasn't doing any cooking at all. He fixed his own ham and eggs. I ate hard boiled eggs from the night before. I seem to have a routine breakfast this trip of two eggs, two tiny yogurts, and a muesli if I have some. 

We had an out the door time of 8, and were rolling at 8:20. Jacinto's computer hadn't loaded, so he told me to take the lead. This was after I sent him the RWPGS route. I wanted him to lead. After I took us a circle around the church (uphill), and back to where we started, he quickly decided he should indeed lead.

We were soon on the paved highway. I didn't realize we had come into town the back way. Our direction was pretty. We got to see the entire town, with the sparkling white buildings, and amazing cobblestone roads. I don't like riding on cobblestones, but these were small, and set (or worn down) fairly flat. When we got to the paved road, there were more businesses, but they looked like any town, any where. I just wrote my own reason why to get off the main road and ride through town!

We were in the granny gear and climbing from the start. Today wasn't big in miles, but the elevation gain was roughly 100 feet per mile. It would be a slow day. The entire day was Spanish mountain riding - excellent scenery.

We had major discussion last night about taking the main road, or a very wiggly back road that both of our routing systems suggested. I countered that the main road had been good riding so far, and that it was probably a better gradient that the back road. The back road started and stopped, and crossed the main road several times. We agreed to give it a try and see.

Traffic was heavier and faster than we expected. Where did these cars come from? Because we were climbing, there were two lanes on our side, but we were against a guard rail with no extra room at all. We had to ride in the lane. At least the traffic was light enough that everyone had plenty of room to get around us.

I was happy for our first back road segment until I rode it. There was about half pavement, and half pot holes/dirt. It lasted perhaps 3/4 of a mile, then we had to cross over again to get on the main road. Our next segment was a good paved road that took us up (unnecessarily I opinion), and through a town, only to dump us back on the main road in a couple of miles. We felt  we were doing a lot of road crossing, and not progressing down the road. We agreed to skip the next back road segment. Then we cycled a good piece of guard rail riding. Suddenly we were ready to give the back road another try. We just got committed to it, when the road went all to heck. It had the little square paving stones strewn all over the road. Some were layers deep, so it was hard to control the bike. I thought about sidewall cuts to the tires. I almost dumped the bike once. We picked our way around as best we could. We had taken the google guy for a walk along here. I remember that the bad section wasn't too long, and then the conditions improved. That was true. After the day was done, we talked it over and agreed, even knowing what we know now, the back way was the more desirable ride. We were up above the highway. Usually the highway smooths the bumps out. We agreed in this case we felt that we climbed gradually and that the highway looked steeper.

We had another pickle juice shot and some pickles. Jacinto wanted to finish them off, but I told him we might need them down the road.

Finally we saw a gas station, almost to the end of the ride. I still wanted a cold drink. We are still in the mountains, so it isn't too hot. Scenery is good. Lots of green things. I saw a fox. I think. It was long and low, with short legs. But the red fur wasn't as long and smooth as I would expect. It's tail was all red, with no black/white tuft at the end. It has been notable to me that we have not seen any wild animals this trip. I saw one bunny. We've seen many signs to watch for deer, but haven't seen any. For all of the small roads we've been on, you would think there would be some wild life. Perhaps it's too hot for them to be wandering around.

The Hotel Cristina was a grand lady in her day. It's a big hotel, with an appropriate entry. She looks a little tired. There's a very fancy atrium that I need to take a photo of. Our bikes are in a conference room, although we were allowed to carry them up the stairs to our room. Breakfast is included. We ate a late lunch at the attached restaurant. This is the first time I've had a menu del dia that didn't fill me up. I had already picked out my dinner before we left lunch! Jacinto says we have eggs we need to eat, and fruit. No purchased dinner for us. I will be ready for breakfast in the morning.

Part of the deal for coming here over Encinasola, is that I'm riding the short route tomorrow. Down the N road is 14 miles. I'm not going that short. I'm riding the 19 mile, back road route. It still has 1,900 feet of climbing, so it won't be a quick ride for the miles. Jacinto has mapped himself a 34 mile ride. He says he will go with me if I like, but I'm going to go alone on my route. Jerez de los Caballeros looks like a big place. I'm sure to get lost on the way through town. But I will figure it out.

Jacinto is gone right now to buy a cold drink. The AC in our room is worthless and the sun is shining on our side of the building. Perhaps freezing to death last night was a good problem.

I'm looking forward to a short effort day. My legs were tired this morning, but did well. I'm happy about that. I'm riding the short day, then we have 65 miles to Merida. We talked about changing the reservation for something more in the middle, distance wise. But  we are too close to the date and would forfeit our payment, so we are staying with the big day to Merida. There we have an apartment. We have to meet the owner, that's a bit of coordinating. We will have a day off there, our last of the trip.  Jacinto has brought up the day off several times. Even though his knee is better, and he told me yesterday that he was happy to climb enough to sweat, I think he wants a day off also!

This was taken at 9 PM. There was not a hint of sunset! No wonder we have trouble going to bed and subsequently getting up early!
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The intricate pattern in the roadway in front of our house. The whole town was similar.
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Jacinto, on the good part of the bad road.
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I am in the center of the photo. This was on a tight switchback. Jacinto could see me across the drainage.
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If we hadn’t taken the back road, we would be down there on the bridge going across the river.
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The roof to this building was conical. Why?
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This fence was built without mortar.
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Our old church building for the day. No storks in residence that we could see.
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Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km)
Total: 796 miles (1,281 km)

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