DAY TWENTY-FIVE: Ruins

Ukraine to Norway

I slept the deep sleep of a hibernating bear last night. I don't remember a single thing after 10:00 p.m. I heard nothing and I felt nothing, which is somewhat surprising considering that when I woke up this morning, my motel had no roof or exterior walls. I have no idea how this could have happened?

I was so out of it that I didn't even hear the graffiti artists at work during the night.

Imagine my shock when I woke up to this.

Originally, my theory was that Ukraine was invaded by Martians. That alien race has highly advanced weapons that can destroy infrastructure in total silence. They also have the capability of inducing a deep sleep in human beings. Then the Martians probe and gather data about the humans without their knowledge.

I explained my theory to the server at a local eggs & sausage joint, and she looked at me like I was some kinds of ignoramus. "There's a frickin' war going on here," she shouted a little louder than I thought necessary, "Russian bombs destroyed the inn, not aliens."

Several patrons of the cafe confirmed her narrative. I must say, I was disappointed for several reasons. 1) I liked my alien theory better. 2) I can't believe I slept through a war. 3) I felt like I had been duped by that elderly French couple yesterday.

With the knowledge that I was in a war zone, I packed up in record time and started riding back westward as fast as I could. But not so fast that I couldn't stop for a few more pictures of Ukranian ruins.

The Russians sure did a number on this place.

The good news is that the industrious Ukranians can rebuild as fast as the Russian army can destroy.

I haven't been so glad to get out of a place since my escape from Warren, Illinois. (That's a different story from a different bike tour--a bike tour that actually happened.)

I approached the border into Poland. Thank the God of the Church of the Great Outdoors that I remembered I can't cross regular borders. You may remember that I didn't have my Passport with me, so I've been forced to make unauthorized border crossings by bushwacking through dense forests.

No way was I going to be confronted by the border agents in that booth. And no way was I going to crash the gate like I did when I crossed from the U.S. into Canada so many weeks ago.

This was the ONLY way. Poland was just over the top of the hill.

The next country was Germany. Just today, I was informed of a cool German celebration by a German Cycleblazer named Suzanne. It's called "essen und trinkin starkbier in der fastenzeit." My limited knowledge of the German language (AKA Google Translate) tells me it means "Eating and drinking strong beer during Lent."

Oh boy, that's right up my alley. And it's Lent. I definitely had to make a stop in Germany while on my way to Norway. I crossed the Danube River with a little help.

I called out to those German fisherman to see if they'd be willing to carry me and The Reckless Mr. Bing Bong across the Danube. They invited me to join them and, not surprisingly, they were celebrating "essen und trinken starkbier in der fastenzeit" in their boat.

Partying with the Germans on "essen und trinkin starkbier, etc. . .

I restrained myself by only drinking three starkbiers on the river. On the other side, I thanked the fishermen and turned north. I rode through Denmark. I'm not going to say Denmark was unremarkable, but I don't have many remarks about it. Except for Freetown Christiania. Now that place was remarkable.

Some of the Christiania hippies gave me a rowboat so I could row my way across the North Sea to Norway. Once again, I was so thankful for the generosity of strange strangers. Dare I call them road angels?

From the south shore of Norway, The Reckless Mr. Bing Bong and I worked our way north for more kilometers than I care to think about. I was more exhausted than I've ever been before.

After setting up camp alongside a fjord and sipping on a little of the aquavit I obtained in Christiania, all of that exhaustion was forgotten.

I learned about Norwegian fjords in 6th grade geography class. After 50 years, I finally got to see one for myself.

When the sun went down and the moon rose up, I got the most amazing display of northern lights (aurora borealis) I've ever seen.

It was perhaps my best day yet. I don't know if I'll be in Iceland or England tomorrow, but I hope you'll tune in to find out.

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Rich HarrellDeutsches Bier wird dir auf den hauen
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1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonTo Rich HarrellJa, das stimmt!
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1 year ago

Suzanne GibsonWunderbar! I'm glad you didn't miss Starkbierzeit, Bavaria's fifth season!
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1 year ago

Nancy GrahamI am grateful for your photos of the ruins in the Ukraine, but more so to see the rapid rebuilding there. And the northern lights photo is unparalleled for sure. Nothing better than German beer in a boat!

Ride on my friend, and keep calm.
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1 year ago

Ron SuchanekI'll be tuning in. Yeah, I've got a lot going on, what with making coffee, and drinking the coffee, and watching TV (Price is Right- 10am on CBS!), taking a nap, etc. But I figured out how to manage time for myself amidst all of the other obligations.
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1 year ago

Gregory GarceauTo Rich HarrellWhew, you got that right.
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1 year ago

Gregory GarceauTo Suzanne GibsonAnd I'm glad you reminded me of that important German season. Thank you, Suzanne.
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1 year ago

Gregory GarceauTo Nancy GrahamI'm trying to keep calm every day. Your comments really help in that regard. And yeah, those northern lights were incredible, eh?
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1 year ago

Gregory GarceauTo Ron SuchanekNever, ever, ever skip The Price is Right just to read my blog. It will still be there when Bob Barker (or whoever is hosting it now) has said his last "C'mon Down!"
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1 year ago