Day 12: Leer to Holwierde - Lift-off: Kiwis take flight again - CycleBlaze

August 1, 2023

Day 12: Leer to Holwierde

Crossing the border into The Netherlands

After a night of drying out clothes and bags (we’re still paying the price for having to leave our bikes outdoors two nights ago) we start today’s ride confidently – though not till after a necessary bank extraction and relaxed morning coffee. It’s the nature of bike touring, isn’t it, that yesterday’s experiences are consigned to the past and we start each day positively.

Our route takes us to Holwierde in The Netherlands. We head south-west from Leer – straight into the teeth of the head wind before veering north-west and over the border. That’s it in a nutshell, but what a mighty struggle it was today! Strava comes up with the evidence at day’s end: The wind blew at 21.3km/hr from WSW. No wonder we average just under 16km/hr. 

Crossing the River Ems after leaving Leer
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We see SO many wind turbines today. These are just a few early sightings; once we approached our destination, there were hundreds in the industrial zone of Delfzijl.
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I feel as though I am rehashing yesterday as I write this, while looking for some positives from the experience. We’re caught in a couple of rainy squalls early on – so I’m already drinking from the face fountain. But as the day progresses – again through fertile farmland – it’s the wind that consumes our thoughts and energy.

We cross the imaginary line from Germany over a canal bridge and immediately notice the Dutch car number plates. Our aim is to get 30 km done by lunch and by a stroke of luck (a rarity today) find a bus shelter right on the mark. The luck comes in as we manage to sit out a 30 minute squall in relative comfort.

As bus shelters go, yesterday’s was a 4- star one with a great view. Today’s is more like a 2-star. It has a tiny seat and a dry floor to boil the billy, for which we’re thankful, but is close to the road and subject to splashing from passing cars. I’ll get around to posting a review on bus-stops.com on our experiences.

A two-star lunch venue . . .
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. . . and its two-star view
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Other than one soaking, from which we have time to dry out, our battle with the wind continues. Frequent stops help. And I even take a turn or two at the front, though I’m not as strong into the wind as Bruce. 

A rest stop selfie
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Robyn RichardsTo Scott AndersonThanks!
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9 months ago
The bridge has lifted to let the barge into the lock
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We stop in Delfzijl to forage for tonight’s meal then carry on for just a few more kilometres to our accommodation.

It’s a huge old farmhouse and barn. There is evidence of 15th century timbers in our loft room, and a couple of cute alpacas in their stall below. The floor slopes and creaks authentically and Bruce, who loves his timbers and has built three houses, is in seventh heaven.

We’ve already forgotten today.

Miles and Murphy, resident alpacas
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Dawn HunterWhat a cute shot! Yes I bet Bruce is enjoying the wood! (Better than you enjoyed the wind today by the sound of it!)
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9 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Dawn HunterYes, all three of them are extremely cute!
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9 months ago
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Today's ride: 62 km (39 miles)
Total: 647 km (402 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonWhat terrible weather you are having. We were in Leer in 2009 and the weather was dreadful, too. Days of rain, but I don't recall that the wind was so bad. We headed west to Groningen and not to the coast.
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9 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Suzanne GibsonWe've already changed our original plans to spend less time on the coastal route. We should also probably have researched Dutch prevailing winds before today!
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9 months ago
Toni LinkI love your bus stop rating system! We sheltered under a road overpass on our first day cycling in the Netherlands. Your 2 star shelter was a step up from that!
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9 months ago
Jill BrinsleyOh no- a bit of a battle with wind and the ever handy squalls….but Miles and Murphy would’ve made it all worthwhile!❤️❤️❤️❤️ I❤️alpacas! The accomodation sounds lovely. I know food and wine would’ve made the wind recede into the past. 🌧️😥🤩
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9 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Jill BrinsleyMiles and Murphy nearly saved the day, Jill. So cute!
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9 months ago
Carolyn van HoeveSo unlucky with the weather. Surely you’re due some sun soon! 🤞Here’s hoping for today
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9 months ago