July 31, 2023
Day 11: Oldenburg to Leer
The view from our window suggests not a great day ahead. We looked at the forecast with Tricia and Ken last night; it suggested a wet morning with a possibility of rain easing this afternoon. So we decide to have a later start this morning.
This works well with my plan to catch up with yesterday’s journal. It’s hard to socialise AND keep up to date – especially given the size of last night’s beer! We have early breakfast with the Grahams and say our farewells before repairing to our room to do what needs to be done. By 10am, I’m ready so we retrieve our bikes, which had to spend a night outdoors, tip the water out of my frame bag (where I keep my electronics - eek!), load panniers and find our way out of town.
Just as Bruce finds his groove as Tour Leader, I spot a bäckerie/café. With a great coffee on board and lunch sorted, we’re really ready to go this time.
We’re heading north-west in the direction of the Dutch border, though tonight’s destination is our last stop in Germany, Leer. It’s a great ride and, like yesterday, nearly all on bike paths or shared routes. There’s not too much wind to fight with and only a light drizzle; we find the countryside interesting and the kilometres fly by. There’s such a variety of agricultural activities going on – small dairy farms selling produce at the gate, maize, plant nurseries, tree nurseries, more maize . . .and stands of neatly planted maple trees. Are these farmed for maple syrup, I wonder? Google is no help.
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Around the 20km mark, we approach a bus stop. The weather has deteriorated and we really need shelter for lunch. We debate whether to stop now or to get a few more km ticked off. Let’s go to the next bus stop, we agree. Well, it appears bus stops are subject to the same rules as buses – there are none for ages, then five come along all at once. We soldier on for another 15 km. There’s absolutely no shelter – neither of the bus variety or any other structure in the small towns we pass through. Until . . .
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It's a fine bus stop, having both a seat (we did pass a couple without) and a view. Even better, there are no buses around. We’re much happier after pastries and a cup of tea, and ready to tackle the last leg. And, would you believe it, the next town has an abundance of bus stops. We stop briefly in one just because we can, but soon realize there’s no point in seeking shelter when you’re already wet through. Onwards!
The rain has really settled in. Unlike yesterday’s squally, changeable weather, this is persistent. We dig in for the final 30 km. It’s not so enjoyable now. I can barely read the route on the Wahoo and am keeping myself hydrated by drinking the rainwater streaming down my face. A café sign catches my eye just before we leave open country and approach Leer. It’s a sign not to be ignored. We strip off rain jackets in the foyer and stand in a puddle in front of the food cabinet. The two lovely ladies working the counter are unfazed, taking our order and bringing us each a towel to sit on. Without a common language, we communicate just fine.
The final stretch feels more doable now. Again, the route into our accommodation is straightforward and still on a bike path. Wahoo directs us to the door of Hotel Sophien-Café and we’re efficiently checked in. The best news is for the bikes: they have a dry, secure garage all to themselves tonight. Meanwhile, we have redecorated our room quite charmingly with various items of wet apparel – it’s a biker’s life, is it not?
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 585 km (363 miles)
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9 months ago
9 months ago