To Semur-en-Auxois

May 24, 2022

We’re wakened by the crash of thunder in the middle of the night, followed by the sound of a drenching rain outside our opened window. We fitfully lie awake for awhile listening to the rain and discussing the plans for tomorrow. There’s the threat of thunderstorms all day, which Weather.com warns us may be severe at times, and we should have a plan.

One plan we consider is changing our reservations and staying here a second night, since the weather is due to greatly improve after tomorrow. Why dodge lightning bolts if we’re going to lay over a day anyway, we sensibly think?

We share our thoughts with the group over breakfast, but they’re greeted with derision. Really? Stay in this little place just because of a bit of rain? We have rain gear, Suzanne explains; don’t you? It’s only water, says János with a wry smile. So of course we’re biking. Suzanne and János leave soon after breakfast, while Susan and ourselves decide to hang around until perhaps eleven, hoping to hit the least sour spot in the day’s weather.

At ten though I look out the window and notice that it’s actually quite nice for the moment. With only a flat 22 miles ahead we should probably make a dash for it. We notify Susan to hurry up, and twenty minutes later we’re on the sidewalk preparing to depart. It’s pleasant at the moment but we prepare for rain, thinking that a rain jacket and pannier covers will function as talismans (or is it talismen?) to ward off a downpour.

If we dress for rain, maybe we’ll get sun!

Before leaving town though, let’s remember that our home here, the quite pleasant Hotel de la Poste, has its quirks. For starters, there were the keys. Susan arrived first and checked all of us in and collected the keys. They were handed over as a set - rooms 19, 20 and 21 - without indicating whose was whose, or that one of the three was to a larger superior room. Team Anderson won this little game of chance and enjoyed a cushy night in a palatial spread, while Suzanne and János may have wondered what they were paying extra for.

And then there was the curiosity of dinner, with its very limited choices. The full card was unavailable this evening so the only option was the fairly limited menu of the day. Our server, in a bit of a rush, quickly established that of course we were having 5 menus and then turned to Susan to ask of her choices. Susan is having the ham and melon starter. 5, she asks? This confuses Susan, who thinks she’s being asked how many slices of melon she’d like and wonders if she can just have the whole globe. But no, she wants to know how many of us want melon and is asking for a count. She’s confused us, and it takes awhile for us to understand and we confuse and exasperate her in turn. Not the most promising start to a meal, but it all works out in the end.

And then there’s the bill when we depart. Suzanne and János left first, and paid what they believed to be their share when they checked out.When we leave though we see that the hotel has prepared a single bill for all of us, including rooms and last night’s dinner. Susan tries to parse out our shares, but it doesn’t add up. It really isn’t until we all get together over the following dinner in Semur that it comes clear. Suzanne and János apparently had prepaid for their room, but forgotten about it - so they paid for a second room on this morning’s bill (which listed only two room charges, since one had been prepaid). So, they paid for their room, and our room, and let us use the best of the two to boot. Thanks, Suzanne and János!

Anyway, back to the ride. Much better than expected, and we nearly got to Semur dry. Rachael raced ahead and actually did arrive dry, but Susan and I slowed down enough to smell the flowers, lagged by around ten minutes, and experienced a brief, minor drizzle. Much better than feared.

Leaving Pouilly-en-Auxois. We’re looking here at the Burgundy Canal, which is just emerging from a two mile tunnel.

Rachael’s off like a shot immediately, announcing that she’ll see us in Semur. I barely have a chance to catch a blurry shot of her before she disappears.

Looking back toward the tunnel entrance. It seems spooky thinking of being in a barge for two miles inside that thing. I wonder if there be bats?

On the Burgundy Canal. It’s actually very nice now - partly sunny, mild, there’s a robust tail wind.

I don’t know what this is but it seemed worth a pause.

The skies are more menacing, but it’s very pretty along this stretch of the ride as we pass between low hills and golden meadows. Worth risking a little rain to stop and admire for a minute.

We’re about half way into the ride when I come to a long straight stretch and at the end I realize I can’t see Susan behind me. I haven’t seen Rachael since leaving town either but I’m not worried about her because I’m tracking her on the Garmin so I know she’s a mile up the road.

Susan though. Interesting things seem to happen with Susan, so when I come to an overpass with a long view I decide to wait until she rounds the bend. I have the camera up and zoomed out to get a photo of her when she appears, but she doesn’t. My arms get tired, so I drop them and then periodically lift them up to check again. Nothing. After about five minutes I’m starting to get worried and hope she hasn’t toppled into the canal. I’m tempted to put the camera down and call Rachael to see if she’s heard anything, but I know the instant I do that Susan will finally appear and I’ll miss my shot.

Looking back along the canal, waiting for Susan to round the bend. Waiting, waiting, waiting.

I wait for her to catch up, and confirm she’s fine. She’d just stopped to admire a nice house and have a snack, so no problem. Except that it’s been just long enough that the weather has caught us finally. Time to wrap up the camera, put on some speed, and dash for town.

The remaining ten miles go fast - three miles later we leave the canal and are back on the road, racing the weather. It offers up a mixed bag, but it’s mostly good - a slight shower, but as compensation we get a blasting tailwind that pushes us home. It lifts the morale to see a windmill we pass that’s spinning wildly, facing directly at us.

We get to town and Susan splits off for her hotel while I find Rachael and we look for a cafe to hide out in until our room opens up two hours from now. While we’re just parking our bikes in front of one and hauling our bags inside, Susan shows up and joins us.

Dry for just the moment, but rather breezy.

Oh, wait. I forgot. I’m on a blog break. So I’ll stop here, but leave you a few photos from the evening. We’ll get a better look tomorrow at Semur-en-Auxois, a surprisingly attractive small town. Or, you can check out Susan and Suzanne’s entries too - they’ll undoubtedly give you a better look.

I like about this much coffee for breakfast. I just don’t get the point of those teeny espresso cups.

Heart

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Ride stats today: 22 miles, 600’; for the tour: 2,013 miles, 102,200’

Today's ride: 22 miles (35 km)
Total: 2,041 miles (3,285 km)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	4

Rich FrasierShamed into riding on a rainy day! I’m glad it worked out for the best.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Rich FrasierIt’s a good thing it worked out! Embarrassing, really. We usually have stronger sales resistance but we found ourselves outnumbered.
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1 year ago

Keith KleinI hope you have time to visit the church. There’s a window dedicated to the American army from WWI.
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1 year ago

Scott AndersonTo Keith KleinThanks, Keith. We filled up the day with a ride and nap today, but we’ll try to get up there in the morning.
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1 year ago