Feb. 16th - Matale to Kandy - Kim and Glory - Cycling beyond

February 16, 2024

Feb. 16th - Matale to Kandy

From a reader comment, I just realized there is what I consider a major flaw in these journals. Unless it's just me and it very well could be. I type in my mileage every day, but it doesn't look like it shows for readers. Am I missing something. I find daily mileage imperative and helpful when I am doing research myself.

Speaking of which, I had read in some blogs to get off the main highway (big, steep climbs) and a take the slightly longer route with more manageable climbs and less traffic. They were not wrong! Really enjoyed Highway B462. I was expecting to get rained on again and I did. Just a bit of a drizzle at times and I took shelter a couple of times to avoid it, but it was much lighter than yesterday's rain.

This is more like it (after yesterday crappy road)

The scenery is great, and the road has a lot less traffic

You know I love a good rice paddy! Especially when a monk is passing by

This was my, "So far, so good" photo as I took a rest break at a bus shelter.

I also avoided a bit of a heavier rain while taking a break. It's been a bunch of gentle climbing, but I'm going to hit a bit steeper parts of the climb and I was a little worried. In hindsight, it was no problem. It's been such a beautiful and pleasant ride up to this point, hills or not.

I passed through a couple of town and stopped for some bread and a drink at a bakery. I was sitting on their steps with my feet down on the sidewalk area. All of a sudden, I was like, "Phew! What's that smell?" It was then I realized that the "sidewalks" I've been seeing that always have gaps between blocks are actually covering up what I suspect is sewage running below. It took a lot of willpower to finish my meal there, but there wasn't really a better spot.

I was following google maps directions to a homestay others have recommend along the river (Chaminrich Homestay.) Reviews are still excellent and it worked for me. Mostly importantly, it avoids the hills of Kandy both entering and exiting the city since I am continuing south.

I detoured a bit off the river and thought I had done an unnecessary climb, but in the end I was happy because....

I've been missing lunch lately because I've been arriving later than I think I will. Wasn't missing this opportunity for a sit down lunch before covering the last few miles. It was nice!

Nice scenery back along the windy river road

Rachel and Patrick, I'm not quite as impressed by your bamboo garden anymore! 😉 Look at this!

I got settled into my homestay, but I got to say, I was a little disappointed because I had a room downstairs that mostly looked at a green wall, although if I moved around, I could see the river. I'm sure the rooms on the main floor had a much better scenic view of the river. I also tried to take a shower later (read further as to why) and the water was cold. I asked about it in the morning and she said it should be hot and flipped on a switch to change it from solar to electric. Still cold, but slightly better. The hosts were extremely kind and friendly, so I definitely recommend a stay at their place. Just hope for not the room on the lower right!

Took a luke warm shower and then got an Uber tuk-tuk into town. Yes, Uber's a thing here. I went to the train station first to inquire about the well known scenic train ride that goes from Kandy to Ella. I didn't have high hopes of getting a reserved seat and yes, they were sold out for the next two weeks. I'd have to drop my bike off the previous evening to take a different train. The problem was there were only standing room only tickets that I could buy the next day and I hear it's a rush to try and get a seat in one of those cars. No way I can manage with all my luggage and I was advised my bike was safe to send, but there was a good chance something could be stolen from my bags. A bit disappointed, but I think I'd already realized it likely wasn't happening. My Uber driver went in with me because he said he'd take me into town and the lake afterwards. Of course, I tipped him extra and got his contact info. (I actually got a ride back from him later in the evening as well.)

After he dropped me off, I started heading to the big attraction here, Sri Dalada Maligawa aka The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. It's a UNESCO world heritage site where a tooth of Buddha is enshrined. I think I'm templed out because it wasn't all that exciting to me. It does, however, hold religious significance for the locals. As a result, shorts are not allowed and shoulders need to be covered. And the one I despise the most,, shoes off and you go barefoot. That was a lot of barefoot walking for my wimpy little feet!

I met this gal walking around the temple so we ended up exploring the rest of the grounds together

Afterwards, we walked around the lake together and chatted. It was enjoyable and we ended up going to Pizza Hut for dinner. Yes, that's twice in one day. Don't judge. 😂

When my tuk tuk driver came to take me back, his wife was with him so all four of us were standing around talking. Then I felt a "splat" on my head. Yep, a bird sh*t on my head. Really?! I just washed my hair. I'm told it is good luck. I was not amused.

And for those interested, here's my photo dump from the temple. Night.

I can't remember the story, but an honored elephant in Sri Lanka

Today's ride: 18 miles (29 km)
Total: 1,066 miles (1,716 km)

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