Days 60 and 61 - One white guy and his bike on a cruise - Unfinished Business

June 29, 2023 to June 30, 2023

Days 60 and 61 - One white guy and his bike on a cruise

I found a happy Edwin when I emerged. He has bookings! As I read more of "The Circle of Silence" he brought me coffee and an omelette and asked me to photograph them for my blog. Twice I have tried to load the photo and twice I have lost everything. So, readers, just search for "internet speeds in Indonesia". I'm finding it as exasperating as Timor Leste! Again, I think, the problem is load on the system.

I'm realizing more and more the outrageous complicity of Australia in the invasion of Timor Leste and the 25 year occupation. Every Australian school child should learn about it. We should lay wreaths on ANZAC day.

I was trying to relax before the difficult day ahead. Edwin and I discussed accommodation and the internet and his frustration at people not contacting him directly. Can anyone tell me how to search for accommodation? How can you find if there is accommodation in a town? Now, don't just pick Dubbo or Tamworth. Try a pisshand little place of which you've never heard. And assume you're on a bicycle so that something 30-50 km away is out of reach.

With little time before I leave I got food supplies for the journey. I am entering unknown territory.

Getting to the ferry at Kupang Bolok was easy: I just followed the coast for 14 km, with the occasional climb, picking up bananas and papaya on the way.

What I found at Bolok was complete chaos, including people indicating, with a laugh, that I am here on the wrong day. But I've established five times that the Larantuka ferry leaves today. The huge crowd is queuing for tickets to Aimere. When they disperse, tickets for Larantuka go on sale. Such are the advantages of getting here early - you get a double dose of chaos!

Actually, getting on the KMP LAKAAN was another issue entirely. Even though I used Google Translator when buying my tickets, I got no ticket for my bike. This, I discovered, when I realised that I did not have a boarding pass. You buy a ticket and then queue again to convert it to a boarding pass - a rather Indian exercise. I started the process again, but this time marched straight to the front of the boarding pass queue. So, the cost: 30,000 for the plastic ferry card, 126,000 for me and 119,000 for my bike.

I was told to get in the pedestrian queue with my bike. I blew that silly idea off and got in the vehicle queue. Even so, once onboard there was no chance of a seat so I'm on the even more crowded top deck. At least the smoke is less bothersome. It's raining a bit. The ferry leaves at 2. It's now getting on for 5! I left Lavalon 7 hours ago, and all I have done is cycle 14 km, get a ticket and get on board. Indonesia will never win the World Cup! There's just 12 hours of sailing to Larantuka.

For the next 12 or so hours I read, dozed or lay in a zombie state. Fortunately, most of the passengers were women, which reduced the cigarette smoke.

My space - evacuated during a heavy shower.

It's one of those crowded Asian ferries that occasionally sink with few survivors

What did I do right? I took a sleeping mat, a pillow and food. I got a home-range outside. What would I do differently? I'd have a long-sleeved shirt; I wasn't counting on several showers and felt cool for much of the trip. I'd try to have another whitefella. I'm sure that some of the Friday riders, on reading this, will be eager.

What did I learn? It's a five-star refugee boat with an abundance of space. I can now understand the profound discomfort of a long-haul flight. Finally, if you take chocolate milk on a ferry then drink it all in one go.

After about 11.5 hours I was pleased to see the bright lights of squid boats. Land must be nearby. And sure enough, they're right about the passage time - 12 hours. I didn't rush off; there was nothing to gain. When I did wheel my bike away the first light was appearing over Larantuka. Hunger drove me to a restaurant, where I got rice, noodles, egg, vegetables, fish, hot tea and a coffee.

I measured it: it's just a few cm taller than the communication tower.

And before I head for a guesthouse here's one final view of KMP LAKAAN, framed in all her glory.

I made the sensible decision to affirm the first rule of traveling: find accommodation away from a transport hub. I cycled 11 km east to Dewy onong homestay - a completely random choice. The ride here was most pleasant, on a pilgrimage trail. I assume it's directed at those who survive the ferry from Kupang. As in Timor, vast amounts of money go to churches. They are the most impressive buildings by far.

Today's ride: 26 km (16 miles)
Total: 4,797 km (2,979 miles)

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Graham SmithIan well done disembarking on yet another island well in time for End of Financial Year and another donation. It’s even pay day today.
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10 months ago

Graham SmithRecommended by a Javanese scientist friend.
She has a PhD in nutrition so she must know what she’s talking about.

Use Traveloka or Tokopedia Apps

She has also sent me a lot more detailed info which I’ll email to you.
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10 months ago