To Zahara de la Sierra - Three, Two, One....Tour - CycleBlaze

March 24, 2023

To Zahara de la Sierra

My strategy for route planning is multi-layered: reading CycleBlaze journals to see what places might be of interest to cycle/visit, then referring to posted map routes when available (thank you, very helpful feature!); plotting a route using RWGPS and a combination of its features such as the map view, OSM cycle and global heat map, but rarely their algorithm; and finally Google street view to check out surface/traffic, etc. My preference is small roads with little traffic – a bit of gravel is okay but paved roads are preferred when they meet my other criteria. When offered, I’ve used local route advice to confirm/modify my selection. Today I took some local advice and modified my route to Zahara de la Sierra, shortening the distance traveled on the Via Verde de la Sierra.

 But wait, didn’t I come to Olvera to cycle the Via Verde? Yes, but… Terri had spoken with their neighbor Gregg, an avid cyclist who suggested three routes to Zahara de la Sierra – none of which matched my planned route. I intended to take the Via Verde thirteen miles from Olvera to the old train station near Coripe, where I would head south to Zahara on A-8126, part of a route Scott and Rachael had taken in 2013. One of Gregg’s suggested routes was to leave the Via Verde after 8 miles, cutting southwest on CA-9101 through La Muela, before heading south on A-8126. When plotted out, Gregg’s option was about seven miles shorter and 1000 ft less in elevation gain. I was torn – Scott and Rachael described their ride from Coripe as an “exceptional stretch”, while Gregg’s description of “an undulating country road” had its own appeal. In the end, I opted for shorter miles and less climbing – I had an extra day planned in Zahara to tackle the Los Palamos Pass if my legs were up to it. I reckoned I might as well tilt things in my favor with a little less work today.

As I’d opted for the shorter ride, I dawdled a bit in the morning and it was after ten when I rang the bell to alert Peter and Terri that I was ready to check out. They were delightful hosts and it had been a wonderful stay, with a breakfast that included the traditional Spanish tomato toast and French press coffee. Peter gave me directions for the safe way out of town, avoiding the steepest part of the steepest street in Olvera, and I soon found my way to the Via Verde de la Sierra. 

The eight miles along the Via Verdi were stunning – fun tunnels and fantastic views. At this end, the route is carved into a hillside, with vistas of opposing hillsides splashed with rows upon rows of olive groves. The path was paved so the going was easy, generally heading downhill through into a slight headwind. Bliss!

After passing through a series of long tunnels, the Via Verde crossed into a totally new landscape- one more open and with expansive views over spring-green fields and a small range rising in the distance. It was along this stretch that I met Hennie and Evarien, two well-traveled cyclists from Belgium. A delightful couple, they’d toured a lot in the US and Canada as well as throughout Europe, and each had many suggestions and opinions to share. Just after bidding them farewell, I arrived at the abandoned Navalagrulla Train Station where I left the Via Verde for the small “undulating country road.”

Peter and Terri - hosts extraordinaire. No31 B&B is highly recommended if you find yourselves in Olvera
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Along the Via Verde de la Sierra
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My first tunnel - and I caught a pair of cyclists entering...
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...and exiting.
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Along the Via Vierde. Not sure what the knob in the distance is - maybe the Castillo de Vallehermoso?
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A paved trail, yellow flowers, blue sky --- Bliss
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Along the Via Verde
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Along the Via Verde -
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Along the Via Verde
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The long tunnels were lit - but I still had to pull down my sunglasses to safely see the trail surface, and oncoming walkers!
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The series of long tunnels cut through a line of ridges and the trail emerged into a verdant valley with expansive views to the southwest
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Along the Via Verde
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Along the Via Verde
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Evarien and Hennie, from Belgium
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Hennie opining about cycle touring in the US
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The abandoned Navalagrulla rail station
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Gregg’s route was as promised, an undulating country road that was at time fundulating, interspersed with some updulating. I encountered more goats than cars as the road twisted, turned and wound up about 750 ft to La Meula. Along the way I came across what remained of an old monastery of the Discalced Carmelites. Founded in 1601, the location was considered an ideal place for their practice of a completely contemplative life, withdrawn from the world. Easy to see why it was located here.

My country road ended shortly after La Muela, and I turned south for Zahara de la Sierra on A-8126. As described by Team Anderson, it was an exceptional stretch, one that gently curved downhill for 3.5 miles before intersecting with the larger A384. A very short bit on A384 took me to the smaller A2300, which curved around the northern end of  the Zahara-El Gastor Reservoir and up to the “pueblo blanco” perched on a hillside above the reservoir. Once again, my hotel was near the top and I slowly pedaled on, encouraged by the shouts of “Vamo” coming from the roadside cafés. But I gave out at a bend just before the top, not realizing the road flattened out. Oh well, next time I’ll know better.

Heading off down a small country road
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On the way to La Muela
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On the way to La Muela
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One of the many rivers criss-crossing this small verdant valley
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Twisting and fundulating
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Remains of the El Juncal monastery. Monks continued to live here until 1835 when the monastery was expropriated and closed.
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More remains of the El Juncal monastery.
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The goats in the back row appear to be paying attention - quite different from the classrooms I've experienced, where the front-row students linger on your every word
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Suzanne GibsonGreat capture!
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterTo Suzanne GibsonThanks Suzanne!
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1 year ago
La Muela
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Dozens of hang-gliders filled the skies, and I caught one coming in for a landing alongside A-8126
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The Zahara-El Gastor Reservoir and the white town of Zahara de la Sierra
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Zahara de la Sierra
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A brief rest and photo op on the way up to my hotel in Zahara de la Sierra
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Life is good
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Though the day had been short in terms of mileage, I’d not been in a hurry and it was almost five by the time I cleaned up and did a little laundry. I went out for a bite at a bar across the plaza and called it an early night – I had big plans for tomorrow.

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Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 308 miles (496 km)

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Comment on this entry Comment 2
Scott AndersonGood luck on the climb! I’m sure you could charge right up, but be sure to stop and enjoy the views along the way.
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1 year ago
Rachael AndersonGood choice to do an easier ride today. Good luck on the climb tomorrow!
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1 year ago