Dove Creek was an OK place other than the motel issue - I'm not really excited to visit there again, but I'm not dreading it either, especially now that the bikes in room thing seems to have been resolved.

I haven't toured in Europe, other than a lot of long day-tours along the Rhine River near Wiesbaden, Germany. There were a lot of bikes at the hotels I stayed at in Germany, Poland, and Lithuania - they usually had a bike rack you could lock the bike to. FWIW, I did keep my bike inside my room for 2 weeks at a hotel in Weisbaden, and later for another 2 weeks at a hotel in Mainz - I talked to the management and explained that I had an expensive bike (it really was just a moderately priced bike, but many Germans rode clunkers for their daily commuters, so it's all relative) and they gave me a first floor room and allowed me to roll it inside. But these were bigger hotels, like normal American hotels -one of them was actually a Hilton - most of the smaller villages just had little mom-and-pop inns where you wouldn't have been able to do that.

By 2020 when we stayed there, no comment at all about bikes in the room. Aren't you excited about revisiting Dove Creek?

As a broad statement, we are always allowed to take the bikes in the room. Like you, I state up front we are traveling by bicycle. That is their chance to object.

In 2021, we toured Wisconsin and Michigan. For some reason, on that tour, it was the exception to be able to take the bikes in the room. One place we had to give a deposit, which was refunded after they inspected the room. I'm fine with that. I understand not every cyclist is responsible.

Last summer in Moab, at the Quality Inn, we had to pay extra $10. each to take our bikes in the room. They didn't announce the fee until after we were checked in, very obviously with bikes (helmets in hand, etc).

It will be interesting to see how Spain goes this summer. I've been told you seldom, if ever, get to take bikes in the room, but there's always secure parking. I want to bring a silnylon tarp to cover the bikes with. Jacinto thinks that's unnecessary.

Kelly; I'm happy to hear that my journal is helpful, thanks for that. After all the climbing you did on your Big Mountains and Small Towns tour this year, I think you do have it in you to do the Western Express. It is a challenging route, and good planning and preparation is probably more important here than other routes - but you are the best at planning! Really early departures are helpful in the long sections, and maybe throw in a few more rest days than usual. There are a few crazy steep grades, but most are "normal" Rocky Mountain type grades. Highway 50 in Nevada isn't always friendly, the rumble strip design makes the shoulder unusable at times - another reason for early departures. I know you are familiar with most of the route. Plan it for the most advantageous weather and go for it!

it looks like the visitor's center might be to the right of this photo. We were on the uphill this summer - that is the hill that about did me in. Actually, it was the heat combined with the climb, and no air movement. I was in rough shape when I got to town.

What are you doing, being hot shots, and skipping an overnight in Torrey? 80some mile day. Show offs!

I just traded emails with Denis, who did hit a cow (!) in Montana. He thought the cow was safely on the other side of the road, when it doubled back, like a deer! Denis ended up with broken ribs. The bike had a damaged fork and front wheel. He was able to hitch a ride back to his sister's house, fix the bike, and continue on. Tough!

I'm rereading this for the umpteenth time. I keep looking at my Ten Eureka's trip. It includes Eureka in California, Nevada, and Utah - follows right along with the Western Express. I just don't think I have it in me . . . I wish I did. I think I"m slightly embarrassed how many times I've read these pages. You make me feel as if I"m there.

Kelly - if you can do the climbing for the tour you are on (looks like a great tour, BTW!), you could do the Nevada basin/range part of the Western Express. I mean it. Just leave really really early on those long mileage days in Nevada that have no services, cause it's the heat issues that could actually hurt someone. The Nevada basin/range area is simply incredible to ride across, and I know it has some special significance for you. Train enough so you are confident, then go and do it next year - I know you can do it, and you will always be happy that you did.

We have stayed at the Antler - I was less than impressed. Jacinto loved just going downstairs for a beer. This trip we are at a new place, the Dark Skies Suites. I made our reservation back in October. I noted that their price now is $60. less. I asked for a price adjustment. No go. It was worth a try. It's one of our most expensive lodging locations of the trip. I hope it's worth the money.

I'm going to watch for the mountain goats. Thanks for the tip. I didn't notice them on our previous trip, which was in July, 2017.

We aren't very good at stopping mid ride - especially before a big climb. Now - if someone would deliver that food to me at the top, before a big downhill! That's another story!

I know I read your journal when it was live. I'm going back now to get the highlights. I'd love to ride this. I don't think I have the legs for those big mile, back to back days in Nevada . . . one can dream.

Yep all now seems well. Thanks for the quick correction.

Thanks for pointing that out Keith - the link seemed to be correct but wasn't working - I deleted it and reinserted it and now it works for me. Best of luck.

When I tried the link in the first paragraph I ended up on an error handling page.

Thanks Mike - I'll let Doc and Sis know about the Ortlieb bag mount option. I use an Arkel handlebar bag, it has a very sturdy mounting system that doesn't rely on a cable.

Ortlieb handlebar bag mount.
I switched to a Klikfix mount by Rixen and Kaul.
It fits the Ortlieb bag and imo is easier to attach and remove the bag from the bike than the Ortlieb mount and it is kinder to the cable than the Ortlieb mount.

Yes, the Central Theatre. Owning any old building is a labor of love. There was always something to repair there. Mother was happy when they upgraded from coal (delivered down the old fashioned coal shoot and shovel into the old furnace), to coal oil! Natural gas was not a choice in town.

Google just told me that in the 80's there were 35 brothels in town. In 2018, there were 21. Is Ely THAT large? I've never been there.

Kelly - is that the Central theater? Apparently I would have ridden very close to it as I entered town - what a small world it is! That was a long hard day with a lot of climbing for me and I really just remember the town in general, mostly I was just happy to reach the hotel. And while they might be there, I didn’t notice the brothels either!

I don't suppose you noticed the movie theatre in Ely? It's an old opera house. My mother owned that until her passing in 2019.

Side note - a woman here in Rifle told me that they lived in Ely during the early part of their marriage, until their kids were old enough to question all of the brothels in town and ask about them. She said that there were more brothels than churches. I don't know if that's fact or not . . .