July 28, 2005
Day 72: Telkwa to Old Hazleton
We woke up to iffy skies - more rain coming. I decided to take off for Smithers in case the rain was as bad as yesterday's. Jean Pierre was supposed to be right behind me, but after waiting 15 minutes at the visitor's centre, I left him a note and went to a cafe. After I had finished breakfast - and he still hadn't shown up - I went back to the visitor's centre. He came by and asked where I had been and seemed peeved - then said he was heading out right away. I should wait for him, but not the other way around. Et aussi, je dois toujours parle français. Well, he said at the outset that he didn't like others impinging on his tour and he was right.
I had more rain on the way to Moricetown, but the falls were beautiful and the salmon were running. You could walk out on the little bridge and peer into the water as it rushed through the canyon walls. At first it was hard to see anything, but then, as your eyes adjusted, you could see huge schools of salmon.
I chatted with Larry who pointed out an eagle just as it flew off from a snag. He insisted that this ensured my safety. Now if I could just get a weather bird.
I met back up with Jean Pierre at the falls and things seemed much better. Riding on wasn't easy. The Bulkley Canyon was beautiful, but a steady drizzle and a steady headwind made for tough going. We decided to call it quits at Hazelton. Rode across a fantastic one-lane bridge high above the river, then down to Old Hazelton and the historic houses of K'san village.
The sky gradually cleared - revealing sheer mountains jutting up from the riverbank. The campground was right at the confluence of the Bulkley and the mighty Skeena. I ran into Cedar and Chad who were camping nearby. Cedar has been doing environmental work on the forest on beetle infestations. We talked at length about provincial policy and the role of logging in these parts. It's nice to run into some progressive folks up north. Then I went back to my tent and slept soundly by the edge of the river.
Today's ride: 58 miles (93 km)
Total: 3,940 miles (6,341 km)
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