To Córdoba

November 11, 2023

The bikes stayed indoors for the last two days while we explored the historic center of Sevilla. On our way to the train station this morning we have another opportunity to appreciate how easy it is to ride around the city. Bike paths are continuous and easy to find, and the terrain is flat.

There's a delightful surprise in the train station - speedramp escalators down to the platform. No need to squish the bikes and gear into a tiny elevator, negotiate stairs, or hang on to the bike on precarious moving steps. We can't go down there until 20 minutes before departure though. It's enough time to bag the bikes, get through security on the platform, and carry the heavy bags to the train, but it would be nice to not be in a rush for a change.

What an attractive entry to the platform

Checking out the posters for the upcoming Latin Grammys in Sevilla while we wait. There are signs about it on buses and taxis all around town, lots of excitement.

This little cutie is determined to get into Mama's purse.

The train to Cordoba takes less than an hour. We were originally going to cycle here over two days, but they would have been long ones. Instead we'll have more time to see the city and go for a day ride or two.

It's nice and warm in here, in the low 70s. Cordoba is one of Spain's hottest cities in summer. In November it's delightful, and there are nice bike paths.

Riding by Victoria Gardens on the way into the old city from the station

Bumping along the cobblestones near our apartment

After settling in we have a chunk of the afternoon to wander the streets and set off in the direction of the old Jewish quarter, known as the Juderia. In the Middle Ages Cordoba was home to a thriving Jewish community, including brilliant minds like the philosopher Maimonides, writers and poets. The Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, expelled them all in 1492.

The 14th century Almodóvar Gate was an entry point through the old wall into the Juderia.

Narrow streets with whitewashed walls keep things a little cooler in hot weather.

An ancient synagogue, built in 1315, is one of only three in Spain that survived the purge. It escaped destruction because it was converted to a hospital, then to a shoemakers guild. It was rediscovered in the late 19th century. Across the street from the synagogue we visit Casa Sefarad, a small museum in a 14th century Jewish home. Casa Sefarad is devoted to the history and impact of the expulsion of the Jews from Spain and the daily life of the Jewish community before the purge. Not many artifacts survived the expulsion but the museum has interesting displays of written material and offers performances of traditional music.

The walls of the prayer room in the ancient synagogue are covered with beautiful Mudéjar patterns and Hebrew inscriptions.

The gallery upstairs was reserved for women.

One of the staff members at Casa Safarad offers a short vocal recital of traditional Jewish songs on the patio.

Colorful pots and flowers on Calleja de las Flores, a narrow lane that ends in a small plaza.

Random beautiful things appear as we wander

It's easy to get lost around the winding lanes.

Around the corner we walk into a happening - a procession of townspeople carrying elaborate embroidered banners of the Virgin Mary and "Viva La Patrona de Almonte." The beating drums, pipes and bells clanging in the tower of the cathedral make for a loud, festive racket.

Dinner is a treat - a good meal at Patio de la Juderia with a free flamenco show. We've really enjoyed our first look at Cordoba. Excited to see the famed Mezquita-Cathedral tomorrow, and get back on the bike.

Today's ride: 4 miles (6 km)
Total: 908 miles (1,461 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesWe were concerned or confused by your mention of bagging the bikes (on the platform?) and also going through security. Was bagging the bikes a requirement of the the type of train you were on? We are thinking about taking our full size ebikes on the train from Malaga to Cordoba. Do you think there will be a problem?
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5 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesWe had to fold up the bikes and put them in zipper bags for all three train hops on Renfe - Bilbao to Barcelona, Sevilla to Cordoba and Cordoba to Madrid. Then for all but the Barcelona trip the bags had to go through security.
The baggage policy for bikes varies by the kind of train. Here's a link to it-
https://www.renfe.com/es/en/viajar/informacion-util/equipajes/bicicletas-y-patines.html
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5 months ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Janice BranhamAh yes, I've been reading the Renfe site, and I rather thought the bike restrictions applied only to high speed and international trains (like in Germany and France). So, they say: "On Media Distancia (Mid-distance) trains, your unfolded bicycle travels in the specific area on board for transportation. Please note that the number of bicycles that can travel on each train is limited (up to three bicycles). When you purchase your train ticket, once you have selected the train, you will see a list of add-ons, from which you can select the ticket for your bicycle. On routes of more than 100 km, this ticket costs 3 euros and on routes of less than 100 km it is free, although you will have to book your space when purchasing the ticket. "

That makes it surprising that you had to fold and bag Sevilla to Cordoba?
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5 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesHmm, I don't remember seeing an option to add on the bike when I bought the ticket. I do remember the platform attendant asking about the bikes and nodding with approval when I told him we would be folding and bagging the bikes, but there wasn't a detailed conversation about it, that would be beyond my Spanish vocab. If they show you an option to add on the bike, should be fine.
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5 months ago