In Córdoba: the Mezquita

November 12, 2023

We're out of granola so the first stop this morning is Carrefour Express around the corner. There's a whole wall of cereal in this little store, including four kinds of granola - all of them chocolate. We've seen this in grocery stores all over Spain. Usually it's possible to find at least one bag that's plain or has fruitos secos, but not here. While I'll admit to a weakness for chocolate croissants, this is messing with our breakfast, the one comfort food we are attached to when traveling. I guess we'll just pick out the chocolate bits.

What's up with all the chocolate cereal?

After breakfast we set out to see the wondrous Mezquita of Córdoba. Considered a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, the mosque was built from the 8th to the 10th centuries when Córdoba was the cultural center of al-Andalus. The mosque was converted to a cathedral in 1236 during the Reconquista.

Rising over a grove of orange trees, the bell tower of the Mezquita-Catedral was built over the Muslim minaret.

Walking into the 8th century part of the Mezquita, a forest of double arches fans out to infinity.

The double arches of the Mezquita were an innovation for the time. Historians speculate that the recycled Roman and Visigoth columns and capitals that they stand on were not tall enough to raise the ceiling to the desired height, so the second level of half-circle arches was added over the lower horseshoe arches.

Work began in the late 15th century to build the Gothic nave and transept with an elliptical central dome in the center of the Mosque.

Light pours in from windows in the transept

To the left of the high altar of the cathedral, a statue unlike any I've seen in a Catholic church

On the throne of the choir, the archangel San Rafael stands above a life-size representation of the Ascension

We stroll around to take in some of the beautiful chapels. Too soon, an announcement is made that it's time to clear out so the church can be prepared for Sunday Mass. I hope to come back someday and see more of the Mezquita.

We make our exit and move on to the Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir River. The bridge is full of tourists, vendors and musicians on this fine sunny day.

The Puerta del Puente, gate to the Roman Bridge

On the Roman Bridge, first century foundations support 10th century Islamic arcades

The Albolafia Mill stands on the bank of the Guadalquivir River between the Roman bridge and the Alcazar. It's age is uncertain. Some historians believe it was used as early as the 9th century to irrigate the gardens of the Alcazar.

For more than eight centuries, the waterwheel of the Albolafia Mill was used in an alternative version of Cordoba coat of arms, along with the bridge, the gate and the minaret of the Mezquita. Source: https://meryancor.com/en/blog/post/34-A-little-Story-of-the-Seal-of-Cordova

San Rafael the Archangel, guardian angel of Cordoba, has watched over travelers on the Roman Bridge since 1651.

At the other end of the bridge, the Museum of al-Andalus Life is built into the fortified Calahorra Tower. It's worth a stop to see the recreation of Cordovan life from the 9th to 13th centuries and scale models of the Alhambra and the Mezquita. We climb the tower to the roof terrace for the view over the bridge.

The Calahorra Tower, now home to the Museum of al-Andalus Life

The Roman Bridge and Córdoba historic center from the terrace of the Calahorra Tower

After lunch and a bit of shopping in the Jewish quarter, I am itching for a ride on this beautiful day. Barry opts out in favor of a siesta.

Excellent gazpacho and Córdoba style paella with chicken and vegetables in the courtyard at Cosmopolitan Food in the Plaza de Juda Levi

There's enough time for a short loop ride that I found posted on RidewithGPS. The route rolls through city streets, then passes by several parks on nice bike paths. It's just 9 miles, enough for a shot of endorphins and a look around more of Cordoba.

Along the Sotos de la Albolafia, a protected natural area along the Guadalquivir River between the Roman Bridge and the San Rafael Bridge.

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Today's ride: 9 miles (14 km)
Total: 917 miles (1,476 km)

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Anne MathersJanice, I can’t tell you how much I have enjoyed your journal. It is tops on my list. Now, I will have to include space in our 2024 tour for a good look at Cordoba. Tough choices, but someone has to do it, right?
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5 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Anne MathersThat's so nice to hear! I hope you do get to Cordoba. I was surprised at all there is to do here, and in just a few miles you can be out of the city for a nice ride.
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5 months ago