We're heading out on the bus this morning to see two big monuments in Sevilla - the Real Alcazar and the Cathedral. Sounds like a lot of grandeur to take in on one day. This wasn't the plan. I figured we'd see one on each day in Sevilla but procrastinated to the point where we were too late to get in yesterday and online tickets aren't available for today. We'll just go on down and get in the ticket lines. So there's lesson #1 - get tickets online in advance.
Lesson # 2 ... check which direction the bus is going. In our haste to get there, I wasn't paying attention and hopped on a bus going the wrong way. Sheesh.
So here we are. I'm in one long line to buy tickets for the Royal Palace, Barry in another for the Cathedral. Tickets are timed for the Palace but not for the Cathedral, so at least we don't have to coordinate that part. Then at the palace we stand in another long line to actually get in with our timed tickets. Fun!
The Real Alcazar was built in the 10th century for the Moorish governors. Since the Christian King Pedro I took over in the 14th century, it's been one of the Spanish royal family's residences. The king was an ally of the Nasrid sultan in Granada, and Moorish artisans did much of the work of adding on to the palace for him and later Christian rulers.
The first stunning site built for Pedro that we come to is the palace facade. It's considered a manifesto of Mudejar architecture- a mix of Islamic and Christian elements, with symmetry, poly-lobed arches, and intricate carvings on plaster. From there we wander through the throne room, audience room, and more royal rooms.
An inscription in blue tile on the palace facade built for Pedro I reads "There is no victor but Allah." Fascinating for a palace built for a Christian king.
"The Virgin of the Navigators" by Alejo Fernandez hangs in the Audience Chamber. Mary and her protective mantle tower over Christopher Columbus, Ferdinand II, the Emperor Charles V, Amérigo Vespucci, and other personages associated with the New World.
Colorful tiled walls and arches in the Throne Room. This was the setting for the Game of Thrones scene where Jaime Lannister met with the Martells to negotiate the return of Princess Myrcella.
There's more to see here but our eyeballs are tired. We stop at the cafe in the Alcazar for a quick pannini snack before moving on to the next big thing, the Cathedral. It's not far, and not hard to find. Just look up for the bell tower.
You can steer around the city by the 342 foot high Giralda - the belltower of the cathedral. A 4,000 pound bronze weathervane called a giraldillo rotates at the top. The sculpture depicts an angel carrying a flag pole meant to symbolize the triumph of faith, Catholic of course.
The Cathedral was built in the 15th and 16th centuries as a demonstration of the city's wealth and power. It's the third largest church in Europe and has the largest footprint. Again, we're overwhelmed by all there is to see.
Quadruple arches frame a massive door to the Cathedral.
The High Altar, a 66 foot high wall of carved wooden statues swathed in gold leaf, tells the story of Jesus and Mary. Sculptors spent 80 years creating this one.
The tomb of Christopher Columbus, maybe, topped by four Spanish kings carrying a coffin. After his death in 1506, the remains made a circuitous journey from a convent in Castille, to a monastery in Seville, a cathedral in the Dominican Republic, a cemetery in Cuba and finally here. Or it could be his brother. Another lead box of remains reputed to be Columbus is back in a lighthouse in Santa Domingo.
The Giralda is our climb of the day. There are 34 "flights" that are ramps rather than steps, easier to walk. I think the views from the windows on the way up are more interesting than the top as you can see the details.
After all the gloria, we long for something more low key and walk back to the Barrio Santa Cruz for tapas. The narrow lanes, little squares and tiled patios are fun to stroll around.
The red and yellow colors of the Spanish flag are everywhere. Officially, red signifies strength and valor and yellow symbolizes generosity. Could also be about the red blood and the yellow sand of the bullring.
The best show of the day is the Flamenco at Casa de la Memoria. When the singer starts wailing I recognize the style from the music that was playing at the restaurant a few days back in Grazalema. The passionate guitar playing, the dancers' expressive hands and pounding feet, and rhythmic dialog between the performers all ooze that duende that I've been hearing about. These folks have soul.
Pictures were allowed after the performance. The view is skewed from our seats on the upper level, but this short video clip as they made their exit is a nice memory.
Tapas at Donaire afterwards are the best yet - pork cheeks braised in red wine, grilled artichokes, Spanish tortilla and avocadoe stuffed with tomatoes, shrimp and goat cheese. A great send-off before we travel to Cordoba tomorrow. We'll have time there for a nice long ride.
Janice BranhamTo Anne MathersThanks Anne! I'm getting farther behind because I get so mired in the details, but it's worth it to preserve the memories. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
