To Bakio

October 12, 2023

Our room at the Arrigori hotel is one of the larger ones we've stayed in. It's a bit cool in here, too early in the season to turn the heat on apparently. There's no balcony in the room, but the window has a great view of the sea from our cliffside perch, and a terrace downstairs by the bar where we can sit and take it all in.

Gleaming hardwood floors and printed sheets, a nice change from the usual blah all-white palette.

Arrigorri, the hotel name, is in Euskara, the Basque language. I wonder if they use sharpies to write the distinctive letter forms with extra flourishes.

Taking off at 10:30, a little late considering the long hilly course ahead

The ride this morning is delightful, weaving between the forest and sea views. We're on smooth pavement with mostly bikes and walkers for company. Most of the cyclists are roadies; there are few ebikes to be seen. The run between Ondarroa and Lekeitio appears to be a popular training route judging from the cycle traffic. One guy who zipped by us had his son drafting behind. He looked to be 10 or 11 years old and I was impressed with his cornering skills, really leaning into it. They were moving too fast to grab a picture.

Jackets come off as soon as we pop out into the sunshine

Much of the road is forested with peaks through the trees at the ocean

They all easily pass the tourists on the folders with baggage

Our first beach sighting is around noon coming into Lekeitio

Beachgoing riders have the skills for toting around chairs and surfboards

Uphill past Lekeitio, farmhouses by the sea

Wouldn't it be wonderful to see this at home in the states?

After the first 10 miles the real work starts on a 6 mile ascent. Barry manages this hill in the saddle, I'm bringing up the rear on foot.

Standing up to pedal to give my rear a rest, I actually get ahead!

We passed these gals back in Lekeito, now they're leaving us in the dust and having the best time.

My poor Spanish is sorely tested at a restaurant just past Guernika. We both recognize hamburguesas which sound great but the server shakes his head no, "fini." How do you run out of hamburgers? I take the Escalope de Pollo to be some kind of chicken cutlet but it's actually chicken-fried steak, and Barry is happy with that. The Alitas de Pollo do turn out to be chicken wings and they are tasty.

We better get back on the road. It's going on 3, and there's another hill-fest still ahead.

After lunch a long bike path takes us north along the estuary back to the ocean. Tree roots have pushed up to make it a bumpy ride, but when we bail out to the road a few motorists let us know they are not pleased. It's not that busy on the road, but fine, have it your way.

We round the corner in Bermeo and start the second major climb of the day, a four+ mile grind that peaks at Gaztelugatxe. It takes us a good hour+ to pound it out.

Meanwhile Cian, our Airbnb host tonight in Bakio, has been sending a steady stream of messages asking about our progress, and are we on ebikes, and do we need a ride. Tempting, but no thank you.

I'm happy for a litte break to take a photo for this fun bunch.

At last we come to Gaztelugatxe, the islet made famous for its starring role as Dragonstone in the Game of Thrones. A small hermitage there, known as San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, dates from the 10th century. I understand you can make a reservation to hike out there. We're knackered and fine with having a look from the mainland. Another bonus of this stop- ice cream from the food truck!

I have no clue how to even pronounce this.

It would be cool to see the arches that the sea has cut through the stone around the edges.

From there we get to coast downhill for three miles into Bakio, then there's one last wall to climb up to Cian's flat. He's on the fourth floor of an apartment building that sits on a cliff overlooking Bakio and has an amazing view of the town.

Cian's messages through the Airbnb app continue after we arrive, with restaurant recommendations, an offer to make reservations, suggestions for things to do in Bilboa and updates on the laundry he is doing for us. The message count is up to 19, the most communication I've ever had from an Airbnb host. It's weird to think about him hanging out our knickers to dry while we're out at dinner, but it sure is nice to have clean stuff again.

The beach in Bakio from Cian's big picture window...

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Keith ClassenThat’s a lot of climbing…you should sleep well tonight.
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7 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Keith ClassenI feel it Keith, now scrutinizing the schedule to see how many more days like this lie ahead.
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7 months ago

Today: 38 miles, 3,833 feet ascent

For the tour: 382 miles, 20,620 feet ascent

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 383 miles (616 km)

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Ginny and Pete DarbyWow—what endurance, what scenery. You two are amazing.
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7 months ago

Janice BranhamTo Ginny and Pete DarbyIt was a big day for sure. With the benefit of few days of recovery, the views stand out most in memory.
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7 months ago