Le Caylar to Pézenas

October 16, 2023

How to Turn a 60 km Ride Into an 80 km Ride

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It was quite a day! We reluctantly left the Gites du Caylar after another epic breakfast, delivered to our room no less, and another lovely visit with our host. Keith asked for some route input, and she was very helpful. She and her husband explore on a motorcycle so she knows the area.

We acquired a visitor overnight. Anyone have any idea what this critter is? He was quite entertaining. Lots of wiggly legs.

This is a place you want to spend a week and hike and bike the area.

The pool. We both went for a swim yesterday.

We dawdled this morning as it was cold. Le Caylar is at altitude and even though we didn’t leave until 10:45 it was still only 12°C. Then we dawdled about in town taking pictures of the famous tree and visiting both Spar and a bakery. We departed with lots of food onboard.

This tree deserved a few minutes of admiration.

Next time a tree dies in your neighbourhood, get out the carving tools.

This was such a great sight! So French. Note the hat, the casual demeanour and the very old tractor. The front wheels were wobbling like a wonky shopping cart.

The ride was great at the start. A nice descent at the start and then a bit of a climb. We were heading down and I knew there was a big loss of altitude today so was a bit surprised by the amount of climbing we did, 533 m to be exact.

Our first surprise was when we were faced with a great big golf ball and a long tunnel. We obviously weren’t going through that. We decided to go around via the old road. Komoot showed a way through. This was an adventure I wouldn’t have missed for the world. There was no way through, but the views, the solitude and weirdly I suppose, the way the old road was returning to a natural state, and still had all the road signs from when it was used. It was a remarkable if futile experience.

It looked for all the world like a giant golf ball. What it was about I have no idea.

Some intrepid maneuvers to get a loaded touring bike or two past this!

The view was stunning. We felt sorry for the people in the tunnel bypassing this bit of eye candy.

The old road may have been slower, but much more beautiful.

About here I strongly suggested to the CN that Komoot might be mistaken.

It was tremendous fun to explore though.

The only way we could see forward was a hang glider.

The old signs are still there. It was fascinating.

We regrouped, went over the tunnel and wound up on a road that was so quiet as to be almost spooky. A farm appeared (civilization! we both called out at once) and then there were the barking dogs who sounded VERY unhappy we were in the vicinity. Fortunately they were behind a fence, but it is always a worry. Then I started to see the signs. I became quite nervous and made Keith stick to me like glue for the next bit.

We were warned, multiple times by these signs. This was the breed barking at us as well.

A little later we were back on a lightly travelled but more conventional D road. We had been following La Route Causses et Vallées de l’Hérault. The darn Vallées were the cause of the climbing. We passed a sign saying the Col du Vent was open and I thought what??? A Col??? On my downhill ride??? I should have taken a picture. No Col sign at the top, but that is where we stopped for lunch and the view was astonishing.

Then down we went. Multiple switchbacks and I ended up adding a layer as I had become chilled at lunch.

Here is the Col sign for cyclists going the other way. Seems to me it would be a more challenging climb in this direction.

Once we got to Gignac we hopped onto D32 which was busier than we like. The plane trees lining both sides of the road were gorgeous but also meant the road couldn’t be widened and it was white line riding for a bit. We made great time though, which was helpful. We popped onto Scott Anderson’s route for the last 10 km into Pézanas. He knows how to pick a route.

We also had a run in with one of the guard dogs. His tail was wagging but he had a big bark.

We were admiring the sheep in the vineyard.

He took exception to our presence. Keith put his bike between himself and the dog.

He was probably just telling us to get lost but there was a lot of barking.

A bit of hilarity (or not) in one small community. First there was the man in the field carrying the stick. I was looking for the dog he was going to throw it to when he started firing, and swearing. I about had a heart attack. I don’t know what he was hunting but it didn’t make me happy. Next came the cement truck (jeez) and as I rounded a corner into one of those tiny ancient alleys three teens came the other way carrying a fridge size cardboard box and nearly took me out. I felt like I was inside some kind of video game.

After that it was smooth sailing. We arrived in Pézenas unscathed with me heaping blessings on Scott for a great route into town. We are staying in an old distillery and the staff were so welcoming. Add to that a delicious dinner in town with a server who made the evening just perfect. It was quite a day.

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 1,181 km (733 miles)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesAaarrgg. That looks like an "Interesting" ride. We are never really sure about how interesting we want a ride to be.
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6 months ago

Scott AndersonThat’s too bad about the pass, but it looks like it was a great ride anyway. The Hérault might be my favorite region in France.
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonIt is always interesting to me that when I know what is coming, it is easier. It was sure worth the climb for the views though. It is a beautiful part of France. Absolutely gorgeous and no one around. I am still not sure how to pronounce Hérault though! I keep forgetting to ask.
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6 months ago

Scott AndersonTo Kathleen ClassenDid you know you can look up the pronunciation of most place names on PronounceNames.com? There’s a short YouTube clip for most places of significance.
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6 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonThat is so awesome. The pronunciation of Millau “Me Yo” was a revelation to us. No wonder people hadn’t a clue when we said we were riding to “Mill Ooo”. Heading to the website now 👍
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6 months ago