Day 32: Seville - day one - Grampies Iberian Inquisition Spring 2023

April 2, 2023

Day 32: Seville - day one

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Our main ambition today was to see some Pasos, which are processions of Easter floats, carried underneath by adherents, and heading for the Cathedral. We have seen these floats hiding in "garages" - chambers within churches, waiting for their chance to exit for their walk of glory. Reading the guidebooks, we expected throngs of people, with the best viewing spots, not to mention chairs, snapped up and paid for long ago.

Accordingly, we showed up on the streets real early, and found everything deserted. The Spanish are not about to be stampeded into any activity that begins before evening!

This had us shifting to the next activity , visiting the Real Alcazar, or Royal Palace, which is directly adjacent from the Cathedral. The guidebooks also warned of long lines and to book tickets online, but they did not account for the Spanish not early bird custom, and we just waltzed in.

The palace has a history of more than 1000 years. It begins with muslim caliphs, who built the fortified residence on the site of a Visigoth christian basilica. It remained occupied, but changed, after the reconquest in the 14th century, but redevelopment work was still carried out by muslim crafters. The whole history of the place is very complex, and the subject of both extensive books and kids' guides in the gift shop. A really major feature of the Alcazar are extremely extensive and beautiful gardens, which are named, and done up in different styles or created at different times. There are 19 gardens listed in the guide.

The Alcazar is like Versailles in Paris or the Residenz in Salzburg or the palace in Vienna. Despite very bright and evocative photos in the guidebooks, I did not find it nearly as glitzy as these other sites. However the gardens were great, and the whole place gave a sense of peace.

There is no sense trying to catalog and describe what there was to see inside, but here are some photos to give the idea of what it was like.

The general construction of the Alcazar is two story, with many different structures kind of glued together. The current royla family still uses some of the upper stories.

The first room we walked in to had a tile exposition, and a very fancy ceiling!

We were most interested to spot the Moorish influences in the architecture. These were easy to see in the arch designs.

Both the muslims and christians used a lot of water features in this hot country.

This was mentioned as a bedroom. Unlike some other palaces and chateau in Europe, there was no furniture on display.

The gardens were huge, cool, and restful.

The Alcazar gift shop was high quality, notably with good books, especially some for kids that were right at (or a little over) our level.

I liked these Alcazar branded, made in Spain, socks, and successfully begged for a pair!

After the Alcazar, we headed for the river and a further giant park there (Maria Luisa Park) and the huge Plaza de Espana - a semi circular building that was built for a 1929 world exposition.

Along the river, this is called the Tower of Gold - part of 12th century fortifications and place for unloading gold. It is now a maritime museum.

Normally this "penitente" would be a strange sight in a street, but we were soon to see thousands of them (though usually in white, or blue.)

There were very many caleches around the cathedral, and here in the park. The price is about 45 euros for 45 minutes, more in Holy Week.

We think Kathleen also saw this giant rubber tree. I tried to avoid the little girl, but I think she adds elegance to the shot.

The park has parrots and parakeets, but they were devilishly hard to spot as green birds in green trees.

The guidebooks warned of scam artists who will put a rosemary twig in your hand, and then try to sell you a palm reading. They do not want coins, so their minimum price is 5 euros.

We returned to the cathedral area, where there was still nothing doing. We looked at the various barricades and seating to get an idea of what would be happening where. Then we returned to our very nearby apartment for a brief rest, but soon were back out again.

We walked down the avenue near the Cathedral, and stuck a jackpot. There were hundreds, thousands actually, of penitentes (also called Nazarenos), all in robes and hoods (capirotes). (We read there can be 3000!). Some walked in socks, one was barefoot, most in shoes, but the idea of the hoods is that the people are doing their thing anonymously. During the Inquisition, red capirotes were worn by those condemned to death (after their penitence - seems a little harsh?).

After a long while, the penitentes were followed by their float, and a large band. Amazingly we had a right up front view, so much so that we had to fall back a bit to avoid being run over by the float as it hung a left in front of us. After the float, still rivers of penitentes came, and then another float.

Every Jesus here has the three rays of power - see note at the end of this page for more on that.

Some people were wearing these hats like frypans. Perhaps they were parade marshals.

An incense burner, reminded us of the Camino.

It's one hell of a parade! It can take 14 hours for a float to come from its home church!

Some of these cross bearers were a little wild with them.

The floats depicting Mary are typically in silver, often with real or wax flowers.

Good viewing was had by those in the balconies of nearby buildings. You can only see it here a little, but there were flocks of young men about, all wearing skinny blue suits. Young women usually sported tight, short dresses.

We retreated to our apartment again, but were driven out by hunger and the sounds of more and more activity outside. We exited to now find rivers and rivers of people, all headed toward the Cathedral. Dodie had to take my hand and/or I had to grasp her shirt, to avoid being separated. In the crowd and the maze, I would have had little chance of finding the way home!

The scene outside our door. The Spanish have come to life!

Gotta hang on to each other, we're going through those guys!

It was worth it, for this shot of a float exiting the cathedral.

Flash, we tracked down the three rays emanating from the head of Christ. These are the tres potencias, or three powers: authority, ability, and strength. Also there is other symbolism - the three faculties of the soul: memory, understanding and will, not to mention the three aspects of the trinity: creation by the father, redemption of the son, and sanctification by the holy spirit.

Summary: We have been super impressed with Seville. It is a beautiful city, with a mix of wide open areas and maze like alleys, and greenery everywhere. Today was also just what we hoped for when we planned to come on this weekend. It remains rather mysterious about what the people get out of the floats and parades and the dressing up in tight dresses and blue suits, and all. Does it all have a deep meaning for them, or like for us, is it just great fun?

Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 1,267 km (787 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonGreat experience you are having!
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1 year ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Suzanne GibsonWe really are! The whole last few days have been fabulous and tomorrow looks to be great too.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a great procession! We haven’t seen any processions in Italy.
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1 year ago