Siracusa (Ortigia) to Palazzolo Acreide - Sicilian Circuit - CycleBlaze

April 4, 2023

Siracusa (Ortigia) to Palazzolo Acreide

Today’s ride was another adventure. That’s code for even Al had to do some pushing. But let’s start at the beginning, escaping Siracusa. Getting out of a city is almost always a challenge and Siracusa was no exception.

I suppose I could have looked at Scott Anderson’s route more closely; I see now that they rode essentially the same way but departed Siracusa on a bike path. We found ourselves on a busy commuter route until escaping into a quiet road but all too soon we were on a limited-access highway. RWGPS didn’t show it as such, though, and the barriers in both sides looked rather new. On the plus side, there was a smooth asphalt shoulder and very little garbage. 

Our cute little apartment in Ortigia.
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The highway spat us out at Floridia and we were on quiet roads that got quieter as we continued through the scents of citrus orchards. We left SP 28 to cross what was left of the “rude bridge” Scott and Rachael crossed 4 years ago. Then it was up. Steeply up. Al could have ridden some of it, but I’m not sure even he would have managed all of it on a loaded bike. He kept me company as I pushed. 

On SP 28, as we approached the crossing of Fiume Anapo, there were over 200 numbered parking spots painted along the road. Near the highest number, there was also painted “paddock” with an arrow toward a driveway. At number 1, there was another “paddock” painted on the road, and lined painted across the road at about 5 metre intervals. In the middle of nowhere. We remain mystified.
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Beautiful countryside to ride ghrough
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The “rude bridge” across the Anapo. Or what’s left of it.
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Someone has placed these rocks to guide users away from the collapsed edge.
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Scott AndersonLooks like it’s gotten even ruder over the last four years.
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1 year ago
Pushing up SP 54.
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Even Al did some pushing. This is where the slope lessened and I could support my bike against myself to take a photo.
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Resting, er, taking photos.
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Almonds?
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Bill ShaneyfeltYes! Closely related to peaches as you might guess.
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1 year ago
The road has widened and improved.
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The view just before SP 54 joins SS 124.
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Looking across the valley at Palazzolo Acreide
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We finally joined SS 124 and its moderate grades for most of the rest of the way to Palazzolo Acreide. Nearing town, we exited to a squiggly road that wasn’t too steep (except for a short descent) and found our accommodation without too much trouble.   Our host, Cristian, was watching for us and guided us the last bit. 

We are staying at Casa dei Giurati
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Scott AndersonLooks much nicer than our place. I bet it even has heat.
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1 year ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Scott AndersonIt did. Working radiators and those new heat pump things too—which we didn’t need to turn on.
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1 year ago
Cristian had placed two little bike racks in the room for us. There was plenty of space. This was fantastic for Al because he could leave most of his bags on his bike (with a security prop from a chair).
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We were getting settled in when the skies opened. Rain had been in the forecast and we were pleased to be inside and dry when it came. Later, when the rain had ended, we went for an explore. 

We step outside, turn left, and this is what we see. The Basilica di San Paolo.
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Across the street from our door, there’s this. The first bunch-of-grapes motif I’ve noticed in Sicily.
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As we walked around the Basilica, we noticed a few people going in. A man was coming out and told us that mass was being held inside but we should visit the other church across the plaza, which turned out to be Chiesa Madre di San Nicolas. He opened it for us, explained that tickets weren’t needed but donations appreciated, and left. Before leaving, he gave me a small card with a photo of San Paolo, from which I learned that San Paolo is the patron saint of Palazzolo Acreide. 

San Nicola with his three golden balls.
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We saw this as we were walking on Via Garibaldi.
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A closer look at some of the corbels.
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Italian drivers can pass a parked car here. I wouldn’t even try.
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Palazzolo Acreide provided this very nice map in Piazza del Popolo.
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Piazza del Poppolo
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In Palazzolo Acreide
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I peeked in an open door and saw this—the statue of San Paolo shown on the little card I was given.
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I’ll finish with a food photo from our dinner at Trattoria del Gallo, around the corner from our accommodation.   This was our first experience of ordering a meal from a menu (the kind where you choose one each from a small selection of options for each course) but without a (printed) menu. We shared an antipasto, a pasta course (ravioli stuffed with ricotta in a fresh tomato sauce), a second course (local sausages with roasted potatoes), accompanied by the local red house wine, and each had our own dessert (chocolate cannoli for Al, tiremisu for me). And a small Amato digestif each. Off to bed with full tummies. 

Only the antipasto got photographed before being devoured.
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How about that vertical part on the profile?
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Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 772 km (479 miles)

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