August 19, 2023
What happened to summer?
Ok, I’ve stayed at the Ramada in Cumberland at least three times in the past and while not the Ritz, it’s been ok. But it is slowly going downhill. It’s a big six story motel that has seen better days and it seems they are not putting much money into maintenance. But I have stayed in worse like that roach motel back in that Irish redneck town I can’t recall the name of. Anyhow, if you’re riding this and staying in Cumberland, unless you wanna save money, go to one of the newer motels. And the breakfast offerings were a joke.
Leaving at about 0830 the temp was only 51. Felt like being back in the Rockies again. I had to donn my long sleeve fishing shirt that I almost mailed home after RAGBRAI. But by the end of the day the temp was in the upper 70s.
The upper part of the C&O canal Tow Path is pretty rough in spots. Lots of pot holes, some muddy, lots of tree roots and stones. In some places it is single track and others double. It flattens out and becomes more manageable in Little Orleans. And a bit south of that you can take the paved Western Maryland Rail Trail but although it is asphalt it has plenty of roots also and they are almost impossible to spot because of the dappled lighting of sun through trees. Stay on the tow path if you’re riding here.
I had a second breakfast in Old Town at the Schoolhouse Kitchen. Actually it was a bacon cheeseburger with fries chased down with a Pepsi. I love this little town and the Kitchen. It’s in a 1960s public school that closed when the county centralizes their schools. So a guy bought it to serve the community and the trail users. They have a breakfast and a lunch menu and serve either all day. There is a small selection of groceries, a bathroom, and a suite you can rent for overnight stays. The gym is open to the community and the owner has a nice collection of antique and classic cars he store there. A really nice set up considering the town popularity is probably 20.
And to top it off just across the other side of the canal from Old Town is a little known private bridge that is one of the very few ways to cross the Potomac into West Virginia. It’s a concrete bridge built by a private. Citizen in the late thirties. It costs $1.50 to use. You pull up to a brick toll booth where the toll lady pushes a cup on a stick out the window so you can pay the toll. It’s one lane and barely clears the river when the water is up. It’s worth the trip just to drive over, turn around, and come back. I’ve done it. Bikes are free!!!!!
The highlight of the day of course was the single track hiking trail over the Pawpaw mountain since the Pawpaw tunnel is still closed. It was very steep and rocky and about a mile and a half long…..felt like 5. But I’m glad I did it as there were signs along the way explaining how the tunnel was built. The rock it goes through is loose shale so they had to line the entire tunnel in brick to keep the sharp shards of shale (say that three times fast) from falling on the canal boats and mules. I forget how many thousands of brick were used but it’s impressive to see…..when the tunnel is open. To remove the shale once deeper into the tunnel they dug shafts to the top of the mountain and hauled it up in large buckets dumping it on top. That just sounds crazy to me but that’s how they did it. I think it took two years and the cost in human suffering back then, doing it all by hand, had to be high.
Now the best part of today has to be the Bunk House at C&O Bike Shop. This is an outdoor bunk house but under a roof with screens over the open side. There are KYBOs, hot showers, a fire pit and all the wood you’ld ever need, a sink to do dishes, a grill, a fridge bursting with bottled water, picnic tables, bath towels, soap and shampoo (I guess they couldn’t afford real poo), a clothes line, a dressing booth, table and chairs, fans,…….all the comforts of home. And it is 0.3 miles to Subway, groceries, and DG! I am glamping again!!!
Oh, I almost forgot. I have seen a ton of wildlife on the canal today. In fact I have seen more white tail deer in this one day than on this entire trip. Also saw a ton of painted turtles, a hawk, two great blue herons, rabbits, a beaver, a qual, wild turkeys, butterflies, ducks of different varieties,…….and too many two footed upright walkers. Additionally I discovered how PawPaw got its name…..they are everywhere……but only saw a few not yet ripe fruit.
Oh, and I went to WVa. About a mile south of Cumberland there is a abandoned rail line that leads across the Potomac to a closed tunnel in WVa. I went over there to take a look. Maybe one day it will be a rail trail.
Today's ride: 61 miles (98 km)
Total: 3,554 miles (5,720 km)
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