September 17: Orillia to Midland (Ontario)

Hotel: King Inn, Midland, ON $123-ish

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DID I fall asleep early last night? Oh yes - around 6:30 pm, though I did wake up a few times here and there. Was I up early this morning? Oh yes. I think it was around 5:30 am that I was laying there wide awake, so thinking I should do something, I started to pack up my gear in readiness for the day. Around 6 am I went to the lobby and picked up snacks and goodies for breakfast and for the road, and after checking for sunrise time - 6:58 am - I was going to get rolling for my favourite part of the day... and was.

Yesterday I had checked online to find that the SCLT was just behind the hotel and there was supposed to be a path that leads to it. Sure enough, there was the paved sidewalk and then within seconds, I was onto the trail, which was paved within city limits. Though initially it was cloudy, by the time I reached the Orillia waterfront the sun was just climbing over Lake Couchiching. And it was beautiful, so of course, I stopped for a few photo ops.

A few bends and turns later, I was onto the rail trail - the trains used to come right to the water's edge - thus the historical rail cars. I believe these trains used to bring grain from Lake Superior and Huron to Lake Ontario, at a rate of four per hour in their heyday. The grain was destined for European markets.

Right off the bat, the rail climbed slightly and was a cool green tunnel along packed gravel, so very easy to roll. Sometimes it was paved through towns, but either way, knobby tires were definitely not required for this trail.

Along the way I met up with walkers and cyclists, most of whom replied when I wished them a good morning. The route continued this way pretty much to Coldwater, with slight undulations, but nothing crazy. I passed through some forests, some bogs, crossing numerous bridges as they forded streams leading to Georgian Bay or the rivers that flowed into it.

Online I had seen a number of comments about Em's Cafe in Coldwater. Moreover, Coldwater happened to be the approximate halfway point for my ride today, so once I arrived to the BEAUTIFUL town, I asked someone where I would find the cafe - and I was four or five doors away from it. I wasn't sure where to park the bike but moments after I arrived, the owner came out to ask if I could place it to the side of the building since the town has asked them to keep the sidewalk open for social distancing reasons - hopefully one day when we read this line we will all laugh at having to do this distancing (I know we must, but I want us to get past this pandemic).

I ordered a few goodies and a cappuccino and enjoyed them at a table out front in a morning sun that was starting to strengthen, making a cool and damp morning into quite a warm day - 26 C with humidex 31.

Not only was it nice to have a snack, but it was nice to get a rest from being on the bike. Though I have a Brooks saddle and use Jones Bars, a rest feels good after 27 km.

Shortly after re-finding the SCLT after leaving Coldwater, the route soon came to broad views across reed marshes - low areas near Georgian Bay that must have been open bay way back, but with human development comes erosion and silt buildup in our waterways leading to vast reed marshes. Soon though, these gave way to vast expanses of water as I got closer to Georgian Bay. The water was so very blue and the distances across got wider and wider. There were sailboats here and there, but really, not all that many. I am not sure if this is a Toronto playground and everyone has left their summer playhouses to return to the city. Or, is this a wealthy retirement area so not so much crazy motorboat activity like some places? I don't know.

It was around now that I had a realization. Mounted on my handlebars is my AM/FM radio for me to listen to whatever as I roll along. Earlier on it was CBC Radio 1, but now I realized that I was not all that far from Collingwood, where there was an affiliate of Classical FM from Toronto - and sure enough was able to pick it up for the rest of today's ride. Nice!

The approach to Midland was directly adjacent to the water. On my right was the water, and on my left was a long string of obviously new homes that faced the water but generally seemed silent. Again... summer homes for Toronto rich? Retirement homes? No idea. But nice homes and awesome views.

My gps brought me right to the centre of Midland where the former shipbuilding docks used to be. Now it is a harbour for pleasure boats with the main street leading right down to this area. There were people parking their cars and heading out for a ride on their bikes - like tens or dozens of people. So, at least here, the SCLT is well-used.

I loaded the address of my hotel which was straight up King Street - a bit of a climb, but not bad at all. This summer I am in the best shape I have been in for years. I pulled into the parking lot and went to check in but I was early and the room was not quite ready but they said I was welcome to sit out back in the shade if I wished, and gave me the wifi password. I caught up on news then watched a few videos as I started to almost doze off. Then the owner came over and said the room was ready if I wanted to have it.

Though not as nice as the BW yesterday, this place is pleasant, and very clean and is obviously being looked after. Sadly, no breakfast here, though I am sure I will find something in town before I head out in the morning. There are a few restaurants up the road where I can choose one for supper, but other than that, I think I will have a relaxed rest of my day and have another early start.

With that first marker, here is the bike and the BOB trailer to prove that I am, indeed, cycling and not driving. -- Orillia, ON

Though there are some icky parts of the city nearby, the waterfront is beautiful, especially when one gets out and about right at sunrise. -- Orillia, ON

Today, the first half of the route was like this, though at times the trees were over the path and I was riding through a green tunnel. Really nice. The path was hardpacked and an easy go for my Schwalbe Supreme tires. -- SCLT between Orillia and Coldwater, ON

I had read a few online posts about Em's Cafe in downtown Coldwater and how it was not to be missed. They were all right. Great service and great food. You can just see the tire of my trailer at the left of the photo. Due to covid, the town asked the cafe to make sure that bikes were not on the sidewalk to ensure social distancing. I think this place gets crowded sometimes. -- Coldwater, ON

First glimpses of bays leading to Georgian Bay. There were many water views once I got to Waubashene. -- Waubashene, ON

The bridges along the route were well-kept and smooth. -- near Midland, ON

The harbour at Midland is huge and beautiful with these hulking elevators nearby. There were numerous plaques along the route showing historical activities in the area. From First Nation settlements and French settlers in the early 1600s to the massive boat-building enterprises that were here til the mid 1900s. All gone now. -- Midland, ON

Midland harbour where I wanted to relax a bit, but there was some guy nearby who was hacking and coughing and sneezing (well down wind) and with a pandemic raging, I was out of there. -- Midland, ON

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 75 km (47 miles)

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