July 6, 2023
Day 5: Worms to Nierstein - 37 miles
Through the plains and into the Romantic Rhine
The sky was clear blue, and the temperature was perfect for cycling. It was an easy exit from Worms. We crossed through the city gate and across the bridge to the eastern shore of the Rhine. Today's route was all cycle paths along or near the Rhine. However, we very rarely saw the Rhine. Most of the length of the Rhine we cycled has a continuous levee. The cycle path follows the land side of the levee yielding a few river views.
This is the great Rhine plain where most of the land is agricultural. Over the past few days, I have passed asparagus, beets, cabbage, bean, onion, wheat, and grain fields. The most unique view of the day was cycling by a nuclear power plant.
We found ourselves in Gernsheim mid-morning where a unique church spire enticed us off the route. I searched for the village bakery where I enjoyed my morning latte and cake, a delicious apple cheesecake creation. A walk around and a peek in the church completed the detour before heading back on route.
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The group came to a pause at the intersection of many cycle paths. Reider, a very friendly gentleman, approached us. He was so happy to see Americans on his bike ride. Seeing our confusion, he told us to follow him, and he would save us kilometers and time. Challenge accepted! According to my app, we partially stayed on the route but sometimes cut through farm fields and forests on cycle paths. He took us to a canal dam leaving us a few more miles to cycle to the ferry which would carry us across the river.
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It was a welcoming ferry ride across the Rhine to Oppenheim on the western bank. It was only a few kilometers to cycle to Nierstein, our destination for the day. No Rhine plain but a good hill and climb to our qastehaus, Weingut und Gästehaus Thomas Schwibinger. That's a mouthful!
The bed and breakfast is attached to the family winery. The rooms are unique and comfortable. This is the beginning of the German Rhine wine region. The qastehaus is stocked with wine in refrigerators in the hall where you can purchase it by the bottle.
The evening ended with the group sharing stories of the day and sipping wine on the gastehaus garden. It was a wonderful day of cycling. The bonus for the day is a bottle of delicious gewürztraminer from the winery coming home with me as a fine memory of this day. Even better, it was only 5.5 euros.
Today's Trivia
Gewürztraminer, also called red Traminer or yellow Traminer, is a grape variety with reddish-colored grapes, from which aromatic white wines are vinified. The Gewürztraminer grape variety is old and has been documented in South Tyrol as early as the 11th century. Dry to noble sweet white wines and orange wines can be produced from the grape. The wines are characterized by a spicy smell and taste, which also reminds of roses, lychee, kumquat, honey, and marzipan.
Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 184 miles (296 km)
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