July 21, 2021
Carlisle to Haltwhistle.
Roman ruins, Market towns and a Priory.
July 21st Saturday 59kms
Carlisle to Haltwhistle.
Roman ruins, Market towns and a Priory.
Hadrian's cycleway (Sustrans Route 72) is well signed out of Carlisle and, we eventually find, all the way to to the coast. The rural scene is pleasing with rolling hills climbing overall to 100 metres.
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Brampton, a charming market town looks prosperous; and the cheerful chap in the visitors' centre confirms it is now more a dormitory town for Carlisle. I feel we had come a distance, but Carlisle is only ten miles away.
We come down to Lanercost Priory. The church is still a parish church and sits in front of the priory ruins. A tapestry behind the altar is of William Morris design, and the stained glass, was made in the Morris works, but designed by Byrne Jones. Unfortunately, we missed another Pre Raphaelite stained glass collection by not visiting the church at Brampton. But we have seen the contribution that George Howard, Earl of Carlisle has made to the Tuille Museum in Carlisle, and it was his support of the Pre Raphaelites that provided these church windows.
The Wall is now alongside the road. There are turrets at regular intervals and the fort of Birdoswald. We pass the Roman Museum on a high ridge before descending to Haltwhistle.
Some lycra lads, pedaling ahead of us, call for pub directions from the three old gents on the bench on the village green. Michael's query for camping has them laughing as they point back up the hill !
Undaunted, we make for the hill out of town and two thirds of the way up, find another campsite. "Yes, they could squeeze us in comfortably (near the clothesline). The rest of the place is booked out for a wedding. There will be music...
We make ourselves comfortable and cook some dinner. The "sanitaire" is 5 star with underfloor heating and a proper bath as well as showers. I need to warm up, so enjoy the soak.
Back through the camp where wedding guest have all the chalets and plenty of tents set up. In the marquee the bride, and the kilt wearing groom, are leading the first dance- a Gay Gordon - the Ceilidh kind. We are happy to listen to Scottish country reels as we succumb to sleep, but the hour of disco pop at 11pm is not so restful. Despite this, I sleep, and do not hear the overnight rain.
Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 2,318 km (1,439 miles)
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