Kos, Tilos and Nisyros

October 17, 2022 to November 22, 2022

17th

The ferry arrived into Kos at 7am, leaving just enough time to catch the sunrise and have a nap on the sunbed after a pretty sleepless night.

My friend Alice flew out to join me for a few days but I felt bad I suggested to meet in Kos after seeing the amount of British and German tourists and all the establishments that come with this. It wasn't as bad when we rented a bike and got out of the main town but we soon decided to take a ferry out to the quieter islands the next day (after some Flamingo spotting of course).

18th

The hour long ferry we took to Nisyros sat on the top deck was enjoyable, so enjoyable infact that we didn't get off in time and had to spend another hour to get to the next island, Tilos. We took this as a happy accident as Tilos was exactly what we were after, there were about 10 people we saw in total and everyone was so friendly, unlike in Kos. We hiked out to a remote beach when we couldn't cycle anymore and were kept company by the many goats that inhabit the island. It felt great to not just cycle for a change and to actually use the rucksack I've been carrying for the last 3 months.

Dinner was a delicious Moroccan style vegetable stew cooked over a fire and we fell asleep to the chorus of crickets and the starry sky (before needing to pitch the tent after getting swarmed by sand flies at 2am).

19th

Rushing back up the hill at dawn we caught the sunrise sat on Derek bishops bench, sipping tea.

Had enough time to stop for a swim and a feast of a breakfast in the main town before catching the ferry to Nisyros once again.

Just as small as Tilos, Nisyros was a lot more populated but just as beautiful. The main town Mandraki was so picturesque and exactly what I expected from a remote greek island. Moreover, the copious amounts of stay cats gave the town a very special charm.

It took a bit of pushing and carrying but we found a remote beach on the opposite side of the island. To top things off, hidden away in the corner of the dunes was an abandoned camp with everything we needed for a cushy stay for a couple of nights.

20th

Nisyros is famous for its active volcano which actually makes up the whole island, it took a lot of climbing to Emporios, the rustic village at the top and we enjoyed a delicious meal of chickpea fritters (similar to falafel) and Greek salad surrounded by cats.

We seemed to pick the perfect time to go to the volcano crater, just when the tourist coaches arrived full of Brits and Germans. The heat was pretty intense and it was agreed that the crater actually smelt like marmite and the burnt crispy bits on the side of a Shepards pie.

There was another steep climb out of the center but we were rewarded with watching the view wi fritters and HP sauce from the top of a monastery.

I'm pretty sure this hasn't been done before

Squatted by the side of the road on the bottom of the hill eating prickly pears we collected and looking very feral.

21st

Another beautiful sunrise on the beach and we had to say goodbye to the camp that treated us well. The 420m trek up to Nikia passed though hours of terraced hills, home to many goats, olive and fig trees (empty though despite our best hopes).

Nikia was another perfectly picturesque and tranquil greek village and we once again melted over the crowds of cats that surrounded us at the café stop. It also overlooked the volcano carter that we ventured to yesterday.

Our ferry back to Kos wasn't until 23:30 so we had a long time to enjoy food and the ambiance of a small restaurant in Mandraki, along with many (stolen) pomegranates over the sunset.

22nd

Fitted some new handlebars to my bike for better comfort and control off road.

Said farewell to Alice and rushed off to catch the 16:30 ferry to kalymnos. It wasn't until I arrived I realised the ferry leaves from a different port 25km away. No bother as there was one two hours later which allowed me to cycle over and collect a few days of figs.

The port was full of climbers, heading to one of the best climbing destinations in the world! I met Felix and alina onboard who were curious about my trip.

Alina and Felix showing off on the ferry

Arrived after dark and made camp on a quiet beach outside the main town.

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 5,205 km (3,232 miles)

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