Ioannina

October 5, 2022 to November 16, 2022

5th

Sat around waiting around for ages for Michael who I met yesterday to pass by but he never showed and i never got his contact details. Guess we won't be riding together today after all. Was still very much in the mountains so lots of ups and downs but I was generally heading down and the views were worth the effort.

Stopped off for food at a cafe, green beans in tomato sauce with fresh bread. It was delicious but I'm sad the price has significantly gone up since Albania.

Met Pyros, a Greek traveler who was carrying only a small shopping bag on his bike and was away for days.

Was given fruit from an old couple when I asked for water and I slept out next to the road.

40km

6th

A very lovely ride though the countryside soon turned into a headache as I took an unassuming turn though miles of induatrial estates on the outskirts of Ioannina.

Ioannina was a vibrant multicultural city overlooking lake Pamvotida. I spent a few hours here to recharge and bought a finally bought a sim after the month long peaceful disconnect from the internet.

It was dark by the time I left as the man sorting my sim had no idea what to do, taking over an hour. Slept in a small field outside the city

55km

7th

Took a very chilly dip in louros spring, a deep dark abyss full of fresh water. I felt so alive after.

Following a crystal clear river leading to the Mediterranean with new exotic fruits everywhere I see. I struggled to make any ground because I was always stopping to pick something new and enjoying the relaxed pace though the heavenly countryside.

Cut across the peaceful farmland (aside from the pig farm which sounded like tourture) making a b line for the coast, this did mean some very steep hills but some fun gravel tracks too

It was a glorious moment dipping my feet in the sea, it's been quite the ride from Calais.

Found the most idylic spot to camp for the night, there was a fig tree that I soon cleared and even a well by a tranquil church. There was plenty of light in the evening with the full moon to look out at the nearby islands. I love Greece!

75km

8th

Set off before sunrise to cover some good ground to Athens. The flat gravel track following along the coast line was a welcome change from the last 3 months mostly in the mountains. I cut inland and passed though sleepy villages where old men sat sipping espressos and waving me though.

I wanted to keep cycling until I could find a nice place to eat breakfast and 2 hours after I set off I found paradise. My intentions of having a big day soon went out the window as I relaxed on my deck chair, taking swims and eating though my supply of fresh figs and oranges.

A few hours went by and I thought it was probably time to move on so I continued inland though valleys and farm tracks with unrideable gravel. I took a couple of falls and was surprised my eggs stayed in tact!

No paradise for camping today, I found a dirt field 100m from a motorway and called it a day just before dark.

85km

9th

Sat on a bench outside a cafe finishing the remains of my porrige I was approached and invited to join Mara and Erasmus for a drink. They later invited me back to join them and their family for dinner which I gladly accepted (even though it was the wrong way up a hill). My heart and stomach was filled by their kindness and the huge plate of pastitsio (Greek lasagna). Mara also insisted I take with me a whole tray of freshly baked Spanacopita (spinach and feta pie), along with a big bag of jujube berries.

Feeling very happy I continued back along the coastline to a small beach they recommended. The Spanacopita was a perfect accompaniment to the sunset, which was soon replaced by a beautiful full moon rising over Patras in the east. I sat on the rocks for some time next to the fisherman who didn't have much luck watching the moon and reflecting on the trip and getting a little anxious of the road ahead after I cross the Caspian sea. The moonlight was so bright that I felt like I was on Mars with the rugged rocky landscape surrounding me.

Filled with nervous energy after reading about some cyclists killed on the road I planned on taking I fell asleep under the full moon. At midnight I experienced my first ever night terror, convinced my tent was getting ran over by a truck, I was screaming as loud as I could telling it to stop. Woke up in confusion with a huge rip down the whole side of my tent and the whole thing collapsed on me. There were people in campervans near to me which decided to leave early the next morning. Safe to say I didn't sleep for hours after and because of the strong wind I barely slept at all.

10th - 13th

Found the motherload of figs, picked so many I had to unload on some other cyclists I met.

The route to Athens was a mix of busy main roads though heavy industrial areas and scenic costal paradise where I'd stop for breaks in the sea to cool off and enjoy fresh food.

Spoke to a French family in a motorhome who invited me to share lunch with them (I just ate but who was I to turn down extra food??).

Didn't get off the ferry in time so had to wait another round (silly boy)

I couldn't be bothered to cycle into Athens in the evening, so I found a quiet spot as far away from civilisation as I could on Salamina Island and had a quiet evening listening to the gentle waves against the rocks (and the frequent helicopters overhead - you can't ask for everything camping outside a capital city though)

Some more ferry journeys and a very stressful ride into the city (Athens is not the place for cycling) I made it to pagrati hostel and immediately met some amazing people including 2 bike travelers from France!

14th -16th

Spent the next couple of days in Athens exploring the city and meeting many more interesting people. Walked with Sean, Yakob and Pedru to the Basil & Elise Goulandris art gallery which showcased an impressive and thought provoking display of works from many big names such as Picasso and Monet.

Was about time to do some bike maintenance and because of the neglect I have given my drive chain, a whole new cassette, crankset and chain was needed. Was a bit of a blow to the budget but was a necessary spend and no more gear jumping! Alex was super helpful and I contacted him beforehand to order a new tent to his shop. I wasn’t sure the tent would arrive in time so I made repairs to my old one at a seamstress, who actually did a very good job.

Later in the evening a group of 15 of us from the hostel headed into town being painfully obvious tourists with Khaled doing impressions of Greek people on a packed bus. I never expected a night in Athens to consist of pouring rain, a vintage blues/jazz bar and a two in one pizza/techno club (surprisingly better than expected)

The next evening I was invited again to dinner with Mara and her family who I had met previously in their village near to Patras. It was a wholesome change to the previous night and Erasmus´ cooking was incredible.

Had a brief visit to the acropolis before rushing back through the city to the ferry, and spent the next 13 hours trying to sleep in a particulars noisy spot above the engine.

Today's ride: 590 km (366 miles)
Total: 5,795 km (3,599 miles)

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