September 17, 2021
To Lienz
A spectacular day –the kind of day you put in your mental touring bank to recall, uplift and inspire you when things get tough.
But first an aside about the planning for today’s ride. When routing this tour, I mapped out an entire route using RWGPS, knowing there would likely be some modifications along the way. Nonetheless, looking at the entire route helps me get an idea of where I might stay and how long it might take to complete the tour. The most notable feature of the RWGPS map for this tour was the huge spike in the elevation profile when crossing the Tauern Alps – a climb avoided by taking the tunnel train. A consequence of this spike in elevation, however, was the apparent flattening of many other changes in elevation - they just didn't scale. In looking at the elevation profile for today’s section of the route, I noted a very big descent followed by an essentially flat run all the way to Lienz, some 60 miles away. That seemed doable, so I booked two nights in Lienz. I vaguely knew there would be some gain in elevation going up the Drau River to Lienz, but I did not realize until last night that there would be over 3500 ft of climbing. That distance and elevation normally wouldn't be a problem, but the legs were a bit tired from the last two days. At least it looked like the weather was in my favor - clear skies and sunshine.
Undaunted by today's route, I was up early and donned some warmer clothes for the big descent in the crisp morning air. Down the hill I went, taking it pretty easy as I’m not a huge downhill fan and this was a little scary. I was certainly glad that to be doing this on dry roads at the start of the day. Soon I was safely in Obervellach, which was decked out in her sunny morning best. I headed south on a dedicated cycle path that ran adjacent to the highway, with periodic detours up and around the small farms or villages of the Möll River valley.
I ran across two pairs of cyclists heading down the Alpe Adria: one was a husband and wife from the Netherlands who were on a self-guided tour; and the second was a pair of women I'd first spotted two days before on the climb to Hohenwerfen Castle. One of the women was from Denver and we had a brief discussion of vaccination requirements needed to enter Europe. She had flown into the Netherlands the previous week, when they were no longer letting in Americans without a quarantine period. She was apparently quarantining while cycling. We agreed there was some confusion about requirements for Italy – something I will no doubt sort out when I cross the border on Sunday.
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About 20 miles down the road, shortly after Möllbrucke, I left the Alpe Adria , crossed the Drau River, and heading west toward Lienz on the Drauradweg. I was just thinking about food when I happened on a small trailside bar/café where I ordered a frankfurter and a coke. It seemed to take them a while to figure out how to cook the dogs, but I soon had my food and was on my way. And then the real fun began. I rounded a cornfield and in the far distance could make out what appeared to be the Dolomites. Now, I was way excited.
It was glorious cycling - under clear skies and along varied terrains of sealed bike trail, smooth small roads, and hard packed dirt/gravel. There was absolutely no traffic, neither cars nor bikes. The quiet enveloped me, broken only occasionally by the call of birds. The surrounding valley was gorgeous and the Dolomite peaks kept beckoning, getting closer and closer with each pedal stroke. Though my legs were tired and I had a long way to go, it was such a joyful ride that I’m sure I was wear an ear-to-ear grin the entire way.
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Hungry again, I pulled over at a small picnic area right on the Drau where I ate my “breakfast” sandwich, made with fixin's I'd assembled at breakfast. It was a great spot, a canoe launching site along the Drau Paddleweg, and it came complete with picnic tables and a portable loo.
There was a moment of excitement when I came across someone wearing a hang glider who was running across the field directly at me. I could not imagine that he was trying to launch from ground level, but I did think I might be in his way, wherever he was going. He veered to his right and put his hang glider down next to a second one I’d just noticed laying in the field. I also spied another gentleman all decked out in what I would call aviator-like garb. I called out greetings and pedaled away. Then, a third hang glider swooped by, coming in for a landing. Pretty cool! And still the Dolomites beckoned.
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I’d gone almost 40 miles by the time I crossed the Drau near Dellach, with almost twenty left to Lienz. I was really wishing I’d kept my booking in Oberdrauburg. As I slowly pedaled through a bumpy wooded section, I began to think about canceling the first night in Lienz and booking a room in Oberdrauburg. I did stop to check, but unfortunately could not find a room. At one hotel, the clerk suggested I take the train to Lienz and then call a taxi to take me to my hotel. I was a bit chuffed that I was considered too old and/or frail to cycle from the train station to my hotel. Not one to be pitied or underestimated, I surmised that I had plenty of energy to go the final 12 miles and off I went, spurred on by indignation. And what a great decision that was.
The cycle path was a dream – wide and with a smooth surface running right along the river. I was motoring, determined to get to the hotel before six. There were some other bikers, but nothing to slow me – head down, make tracks. After about seven miles, I heard the distinct sound of cowbells and mooing coming from just across the river. I glanced back across the river and came to a near screeching halt. Above the river loomed the mountain range referred to as the Lienz Dolomites, their peaks sharply outlined by the dipping sun. It was the magic light for the mountains, said a woman passerby. And to think I might have taken the train!
I made it to Lienz before six, checked into my hotel, and after quickly washing up went across the Isel River for Mediterranean food – small plates of humus, babaganoush and falafel with accompanying flatbread. It was the perfect meal to cap one of my most memorable days of cycling.
Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 283 miles (455 km)
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