Cana Island / Eagle Trail

June 16, 2021

First, some catching up. The crappy WiFi at our Fish Creek motel was too weak to upload yesterday’s video, so here it is now:

Video sound track: Withdraw, by Francesco Negro

We still hold no love for our overpriced, under-serviced motel that hates bicycles; but we’re pleased after all to stay two nights in Fish Creek. If we hadn’t, we’d have missed out on one of the best days of the tour.

We have three goals for the day: to see the egg-beater lighthouse at Bailey’s Harbor; to see the lighthouse on Cana Island; and to hike the Eagle Trail in Peninsula State Park. The lighthouses are my addition to the pot, and the hike is Rachael’s. She’s researched the hike, and it does sound great - it’s her top priority for the day. My top priority is the Cana Island lighthouse, which I’ve really wanted to see ever since we saw a photo of it on the wall of our motel room a few days back. I don’t care that much about the egg-beater, but it made the cut because I was looking for ways to pad the miles to get us up to 42.

We start biking under ideal weather conditions - fair skies, light winds, on a day that will top out at only 70. We’re bound for Bailey Harbor, over on the east side of the peninsula.

Eastbound on Gibraltar Road, crossing over the crown of the peninsula for what must be about the fifth time now.

If I’ve mapped it right, the Bailey’s Harbor lighthouse is on the opposite side of the bay from the village, facing seaward at the end of Tofts Point. It’s an eight mile out and back along the bay to the end of Tofts Point, which is a perfect addition to the day’s mileage. On the way out we’re lured in by the Bailey’s Harbor Fish Company. It’s interesting on the outside, with old fishing boats and paraphernalia littering the yard and a board listing the offerings of the day. We think we might pick up some smoked fish to supplement our lunch later, until we’re advised that it probably won’t weather the heat well unless we decide to eat it right away.

Inside the Bailey’s Harbor Fish Company.

We talk each other into thinking it’s a good idea to have a chunk of smoked whitefish with our lunch, but we’re talked out of it. Good advice. I’ve done food poisoning and don’t need to repeat the experience.

Some floats, the Bailey’s Harbor Fish Company.

The last mile to the end of Tofts Point is unpaved - a reasonable crushed limestone surface, but irregular enough that I’m put on notice that this had better be worth it. It’s not. At the end of the road is a turnaround point in the trees, but nothing else. I figure I’ve just screwed up my directions once again, but that’s not the problem. I learn later that the lighthouse is on private property and only visible from the water.

Nearing the end of Tofts Road. There’s no lighthouse to be seen, but this striped road surface is quite striking and makes the ride out worthwhile.

Disappointing, but not crushing. I wasn’t all that interested in this lighthouse anyway. After stopping for a snack lunch on the bay we head for Cana Island, another dead end on the next promontory to the north.

Looking back toward Tofts Point, on our way to Cana Island. I wonder if the Bailey’s Harbor lighthouse is visible along here, if I’d thought to look for it.

Bottle tree, Cana Island Road. In the distance, Cana Island and the top of its lighthouse.

When we arrive at the parking lot for Cana Island, we’re staring at a narrow and shallow channel between us and the island. A group of people are gingerly walking across, obviously with some difficulty. It looks challenging and very slow and doesn’t appeal to either of us, and Rachael starts suggesting that we scrap this whole idea and start biking to Peninsula State Park so we’re sure of having enough time to hike the Eagle Trail. I’m disappointed, but tell her about the shuttle tractor I’ve heard of that carries visitors across. Just then, we hear it coming around the bend and decide we’ll give it a try. We hurriedly lock The bikes to a fence railing, and in a few minutes we and a few others pile into the wagon the tractor has in tow.

The tractor ride is a great experience - a unique ride, and very jarring. In a very small way it immediately reminds us of Bruce and Andrea’s truck ride down the worst road ever, in Myanmar.

And the lighthouse was all I’d hoped it would be. Well worth the trip out, with or without the tractor pull as an extra inducement.

The Cana Island Light was built in 1869, and is still in use. The tower was built of brick, as was the keeper’s house; but in 1902 it was cased in steel cladding to protect it from further erosiaon.

The tower is 89 feet tall. The light uses a third order Fresnel lens that is visible from 17 miles out on the lake. It is illuminated by electricity now, but originally by lard that had to be carried up nightly by the light keeper.

Looking up at the spiral staircase, which sadly is closed to visitors today. It’s currently open only on the weekend.

We’re in luck - the tractor is just loading up for a return back to the mainland when we’re ready to leave.

We bounce our way back across the channel, unlock the bikes, and bike yet again back across the peninsula to Peninsula State Park, arriving at the trailhead a bit after three. We’re in plenty of time for our hike, which is only two miles long. They figure to be slow going though:

The Eagle Trail is a locally famous hike, and deservedly so. It’s a short loop that drops steeply two hundred feet to the water level and passes beneath the dramatic limestone cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment, a significant geologic feature of North America and one I don’t remember hearing of before. The escarpment is named for Niagara Falls, which flows over it. It is also a defining feature of Door County, following the western side of the peninsula.

The hike is as dramatic and interesting as we’d hoped. Great views across the lake and up the cliffs, intriguing blocky caves cut into their base, interesting vegetation. Challenging, but not daunting. Just right for the end of the day.

Looking across Eagle Harbor to Ephraim from a lookout at the top of the cliffs.

Ephraim, from across the bay. The steepled church in the right is the Moravian Church that we saw a few days ago, the oldest church in the county.

Footing along the lake’s edge is difficult. The trail surface is a dense lattice of exposed cedar roots.

So this is what the Niagara Escarpment looks like!

I was a bit anxious about these cliffs, wondering how foolhardy it was to stand around the base of them.

Looking across the mouth of Eagle Harbor. Sister Bay must be around that far point.

The return to road level follows a gradual, rocky path through a gap in the cliffs.

Changing shoes for the ride back to town. Rocky carried her hiking boots along, which was a good idea. I probably should have too. The footing with my bike shoes was slick here and there.

We were back on the bikes not long past five, with only a fast, mostly downhill ride back to Fish Creek. Late enough that we went straight to dinner - a great meal at Wild Tomato Pizza. A good salad, a large sopresetta, green olive and mushroom pie, and a beverage of choice made an excellent end to a fine day. We end up feeling much better about Fish Creek, but we still don’t care for our motel much.

The Anti-Hero IPA, by Revolution Brewing from Chicago. Just my kind of brew.

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Ride stats today: 43 miles, 1,000’; for the tour: 707 miles, 21,900’

Today's ride: 43 miles (69 km)
Total: 707 miles (1,138 km)

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