Riding Slowly and Savoring

December 24, 2019

Sangkhom to Si Chiang Mai

Sangkhom to Si Chiang Mai

There were two things we didn’t want to think about but knew we’d have to face: a fairly immediate big hill and road construction (dust). The first was over before we knew it and was not bad at all. On top was a really nice new rest area complete with tables and outlets for charging devices. We didn’t need that kind of recharge, however, and after a few slugs of water we were gone.

One of the nicest actual rest stops I've seen in Thailand.

Pretty nice road construction but the Thai engineers might learn a thing or two if they went to Myanmar and met with the road builders there: The old women breaking large stones into smaller and smaller stones with hammers, the five year old girls carrying pails of rocks and the flip flop wearing women dumping hot oil on rocks arranged by hand and then dusting the oil repeatedly with sand.

These are two grades of small stones for road construction that were made by large machines and not with hammers as the Burmese do.

There were beautiful pepper farms for a stretch then four guys with weed whackers cutting down grasses in the ditch, two on each side of the road. Weed whackers in S.E. Asia are wicked looking. They are sharp blades like on a lawn mower only smaller. There is nothing surrounding it, just the fast moving blade out there to raise rocks, glass, cans, sticks and whatever else is lying in the ditch. The men operating these machines are not wearing any eye protection or another other protection. We see these guys in parks and anywhere and I always steer clear of them. Sometimes they are nice and stop while we pass but these four guys were not about to. It must be that guys in groups are less likely to be courteous. There were things flying out into the road and I just shut my eyes. I thought that two of them should be picking up all the trash in the ditch after the other two weed whacked it. But who am I to make any kind of sense? I’m just appalled at all the trash by the sides of roads.

There are many different kinds of Thai peppers. The thing is, they are not all just blazing hot. Some are mildly hot and mostly really flavorful.

The road itself was great. There was another steep hill but really the day was easy. Yes, there were more long stretches of sand extraction from the banks of the Mekong and of course rock dumping and promenade making on top. It’s everywhere. And yes, there was a bit of road construction but it didn’t really affect us. The major work had been done already and the big road making machines were not working and therefore not raising dust.

Temples everywhere. This one just visible through the trees.

This seems to be what's happening all along the Mekong now. Build a promenade and a coffee house will follow.

No doubt this will be a coffee house and it's so big that they will probably serve a bit of food too. We have seen so many of these being built that I'm absolutely certain half of them will fail. The first generation of coffee houses were up and running a few years ago and now 80% of them are closed. I don't get why they keep doing these things.

A few miles before we got to Si Chiang Mai we took a quiet road near the river. It was quite residential but in Thailand on a back street residential is a joy. There are the exciting sounds of metal spatulas hitting woks and the wonderful aroma emitted from freshly fried garlic. The roads through neighborhoods such as these are so quiet they seem almost muffled. People are happy to see us and because it is like we are riding right through their living rooms their greetings are more up close and personal. We love riding through Thai residential areas and we ride slowly savoring every sense that is awakened. Birds’ songs are clearer and the dogs are sleeping.

Then, if that wasn't peaceful enough, we unexpectedly entered a section of deep forest with few houses. We took turns filming each other ride through it. I would stop and tell Andrea to go ahead and I would film her riding. Then, out of sight, I stopped filming and rode. When I saw Andrea again she was filming me! It’s a fun unplanned game we have had in the past too. But mostly we simply enjoyed the forest so close to the small city of Si Chiang Mai.

Just before getting to Si Chiang Mai coming from the west.

As we entered the spread-out town we found the promenade and rode along it. There was a bike trail included in the promenade and cooking stalls had invaded the promenade itself. We stopped at one that offered Thai iced coffee. I can’t tell you how laid back these places are in mid-day. It was almost like we were waking up the owners from their naps (or their fun on their phones) but they were happy for some business. We entered their relaxed state for a time as we sipped our coffee with sweetened milk. Then we went on our way continuing down the bike path.

The bike path is part of the wide promenade that goes for miles at Si Chiang Mai, a definite benefit for the town.

Si Chiang Mai's nod to acknowledge Christmas.

It wouldn't take much to fix this up. It looks more like a few apartments than a house. All my friends could come over and stay in their own apartments. What could go wrong with this plan?

We were looking for a guest house but didn’t find anything along the rather decrepit waterfront. Si Chiang Mai kind of missed the boat when it came to linking to Vientiane. It’s odd too because it is directly across the river from Vientiane but the bridge is at Nong Khai, another 25 miles downstream. If the bridge had been built right at Si Chiang Mai the town would have prospered greatly but instead it felt like it was quietly dying with everyone having gone to Nong Khai.

We went over to the main highway and immediately found Stephanie, well, a resort named Stephanie. The two women who were there taking care of the many brand new bungalows had that deer-in-headlights look; “Oh, my god, foreigners!” But we were able to communicate the basics with them in Thai which relieved them a bit but they still felt the need to call the owner, Stephanie, so she could talk to me on the phone about showing our passports. There was nothing to discuss and Stephanie didn’t speak English anyway! But it was nice to talk to her. The two women took photos of our passports, called Stephanie again and she told them “Visa”. I know that because then they asked me, “Visa?” I found the page with the visa stamp and one of them held the passport as the other photographed it. It was pretty cute. Normally they run off with the passport to photocopy it so Stephanie represents the new ways.

Stephanie had sunk a lot of money into her enterprise. On the phone she had told me she was a school teacher but she must have inherited the land on which she recently built at least 20 bungalows. The grounds were really nice and there was even a gardener. We chose a bungalow far from the busy highway. It was perfect and the first time we have ever had a USB outlet in a room we have rented. Stephanie had thought of everything!

Stephanie Resort in Si Chiang Mai. Brand new bungalows for 500 Baht ($16.66).

After showers we rode to the central market looking for a papaya, what’s new! We did find one and just as we were about to leave the market a woman rolled in with an array of large stainless steel bowls of curries hot from her kitchen. Suddenly we didn’t have to find a restaurant because we were going to go home with bags of curries and rice dangling from our handlebars. I heard nearby women discussing us as we prepared to ride and I looked over at them and got thumbs up all around. Again, in such a simple way we are connecting with the people in a way they appreciate. For us we were getting the best Thai food there is and @ $1 apiece the cheapest. In Thailand cheapest = best when it comes to Thai food. This is what I have learned.

Back at our bungalow we filled our bowls and sat in the manicured garden area as the sun set and had a great meal. It was our Christmas Eve dinner. There were a few mosquitoes but nothing Skeetolene couldn’t handle. Yes, it’s made with a bunch of citronella oil and is great stuff. I love the name.

Bags of food we bought in the evening market and brought to our garden area of Stephanie Resort.

Our view while having dinner in Stephanie Resort's garden.

Another perfect day riding in Thailand along the Mekong River. I hope this doesn’t get boring.

lovebruce

When you see a bicycle tire imprint in the cement you know you are on the bike path.

Today's ride: 26 miles (42 km)
Total: 718 miles (1,156 km)

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Jen RahnSkeetolene .. now that's a product that deserves a catchy jingle!
Reply to this comment
4 years ago

Ron SuchanekHere's your jingle:
Them skeeters wanna treat you mean,
But don't worry none, get Skeetolene!
Skeeeeeee-tolene!
Reply to this comment
4 years ago

Bruce LellmanTo Ron SuchanekThat's a nice jingle. It may have saved the company if they had had it in time. I can't find Skeetolene at 7-Eleven, where I got the last bottle. I wonder if it went out of business. There are similar products now with citronella oil but do they work as well as Skeetolene? We shall see.
Reply to this comment
4 years ago