Rest Day in Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne

June 13, 2025

Today was a rest day, even though it might be a little cooler than it had been, thanks to a few clouds in the sky. We have two loaded climbing days in a row, to Valloire via Col du Télégraphe (33 km, 1220 m), and then on to Briançon via Col du Galibier and Col du Lautaret (53 km, 1248 m). Those are big climbs on loaded bikes and worse in the heat, predicted to continue tomorrow, and potentially stormy weather on Sunday, our Galibier day. Best to be well-rested, hydrated, and properly fueled.

Tomorrow is also our opportunity to see some of the Critérium du Dauphiné. The Stage 7 route goes over Col de la Madeleine, up to Col du Glandon and the Col de la Croix-de-Fer, then down to skirt Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, and along the same route we’ll be taking earlier in the day as far as the intersection of D902 (our route up Télégraphe) and D215A (their route to Valmeinier 1800). We haven’t decided whether we will stop and hang out at the intersection until the peloton goes by around 4 p.m., ride to Valloire to drop our bags at the hotel then ride back, or just watch it online or on a TV somewhere in Valloire. Thoughts to occupy our minds on our rest day!

Map of Stage 7, Critérium du Dauphiné 2025.

We went down for breakfast half an hour later today and found a different demographic in the breakfast room. Gone were the groups of middle-aged male cyclists from the UK, here were less energetic tourists. And us.

After breakfast, we visited the sights. First, the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste. We were walking by, the door was open. I was most intrigued by the stalls in the choir. Each was carved and each was different. A few pics; it was a bit dim.

Wooden stalls in the choir, built ~1500 AD. It looks like there are supports for resting a bit of weight while standing for long periods, which fold down into actual seats. I would have tested, but signage said not to touch.

One of the “bum rests” that folds down. Dice motif? In a church?

This one had some sort of animal I couldn’t identify.

There was also a fresco, discovered relatively recently during some restoration work. The fresco and its support was moved to its current location (I think).

Next, my goal for the day: Musée Opinel. It’s a small museum, privately operated by the knife and cutlery company which has roots in a village nearby. Its main operations are in Chambéry, having moved to that area in the early 20th Century. The museum is free, well done, and though all the information is presented in French, QR codes link to translations. There’s also a video with English subtitles.

The man who greeted us when we came in is very enthusiastic about his company and about cycling. Maybe he noticed my tan lines? My cycling shorts are longer than my walking shorts so the lines are screamingly obvious. Al’s are covered by his shorts. An important detail we learned from him is that the climb up Col du Télégraphe isn’t steep, though he didn’t say what he feels is steep, and is shaded. Unlike the ascent of Col du Glandon, which isn’t shaded and gets very hot (as we noticed descending yesterday).

And there’s a shop. After all, it’s a company museum! The shop has everything and we both bought souvenirs. Neither of us needs another pocket knife, but Opinel is such a quintessentially French company I’ve long wanted one.

I got a knife and a picnic set! The knife blade is Swedish stainless steel (Opinel still makes their classic carbon-steel knives but I live in a damp region) and a cycling motif engraved in the handle. Al just got a knife, with a skiing motif.

Fold away the knife blade and attach the fork or spoon. Can’t cut a steak but it’ll do for me.

The fork and spoon attachments clip together and the microfibre “napkin” has places for them and the knife.

Everything wraps up into a pocket-sized bundle.

Seen on a notice board inside the museum: there’s an annual Opinel-sponsored bike race to the original foundry village

Outside the Opinel Museum—the Tour is coming here this year too.

We bought cold drinks at the supermarket and sat on the grass to drink them until this bench was free.

Curious about what sort of tree it is. It drops little dark-red berries

There’s a neat water feature in the central square near the iconic bell tower—which was formerly attached to the church that’s next door to the cathedral, but which was damaged during the Revolution (the church and its bell tower, not the water feature).

Pump some water into a basin, use the Archimedes Screw to lift it to a higher basin and when that’s full, release the plug to fill a channel, then open the gate at the end of the channel to turn a water wheel. I’d have been enchanted as a kid (and still am).

Al operating the Archimedes Screw. That’s the bell tower in the background. To its left, itd formerly-attached church, and left of that is the cathedral.

After all this resting, we bought a sandwich (Al) and a mini quiche (me) from the boulangerie-patisserie across the street from our hotel and ate them in the little park behind our hotel. Hôtel Saint-Georges: comfortable, bike-friendly (friendly period, actually) and conveniently located. More resting, a little bike maintenance in the cool bike garage (it’s cooler in there than our air-conditioned room), and we will have earned dinner.

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Susan CarpenterWell-deserved rest day! I was wondering if you were going to catch any of the Dauphiné
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