La Clusaz to Le Chéloup

June 1, 2025

What a day! Let me start from the beginning.

We were extremely pleased with Hôtel Beaulieu. It was perhaps the least expensive option that met our requirements in La Clusaz (ensuite bathroom and a secure place to store our bikes) and it was perfect for our needs. The décor is dated (70s, anyone?) but everything works. The bathroom sink had a working plug and was even deep enough to wash my kit. The room was cool with no need for AC (north-facing will do that), important after a hot day like yesterday. There were hooks to hang things and 8 hangers! Breakfast was included in the 90€ room rate and might have been the best breakfast so far.

We planned another early start but only managed to get going at 9:40 and our first stop was the bakery across ftom those stairs I mentioned yesterday. They had heaps of sandwiches of assorted flavours, all ready-wrapped in cling film to put in your pocket, pannier, or backpack. Our planned route was such that two full bottles and a sandwich each was the best way to start.

The first objective was Col des Aravis, a climb we’d officially started yesterday in St-Jean-de-Sixt. This was on the main road and there was more traffic than we’d like, but less than we woukd expect later on this sunny Sunday.

This col sign is a different style, in reinforced concrete

At Col des Aravis, it was decision time. Stick to the main road or take the Route de la Soif, a gravel road (chemin) leading to Col de l’Arpettaz, from which there was a narrow paved road down to the Gorges de l’Arly. This is the way I’d hoped to go when planning this trip, but it was always weather- and energy-dependant. Today, though, it was a go!

Our bikes are not the ideal sort for this 14-km gravel section so we knew we’d be doing some walking. Not much, though, as it turned out. The surface was actually more rideable than some designated bike paths we’ve ridden (attempted to ride) in Spain and Portugal. And the views were excellent!

On la Route de la Soif. See the little “sun bubble” at the bottom, near the path.

At the halfway point, la Route de la Soif.

We had wondered how isolated this might be, but it wasn’t at all. We passed many farmhouses(?) and there were other walkers and cyclists and even a few motorized vehicles (driving slowly). It would have been fine solo.

On la Route de la Soif. Al on the right, walker on the left.

At first Al thought this big rock would be a good lunch spot, but it wasn’t as smooth as it looked.

A passing cyclist (on an e-mtb, as most were) offered to take a photo of the two of us.

At our lunch stop, I took the opportunity to take a few flower shots.

Giant violets? Wild pansies? The flowers were each about 4 cm across

I remember seeing these in the Pyrenees.

Waterfall, la Route de la Soif. We crossed several shallow fords, almost all “paved” so the base was solid across the path.

The refuge at Col de l’Arpettaz. This was the halfway point for the day in terms of km, but more like 3/4 in terms of time.

The road from the sign and refuge at Col de l’Arpettaz first climbed a bit more then mostly descended, all on asphalt. The descent seemed to go on forever! But it didn’t; we turned onto D109, wider but also quiet. Then came an unpleasant 4 km on D1212 to Flumet, where we turned off for the climb through Notre-Dame-de-Bellecombe and on up to the little hamlet of Chéloup.

We stopped to add more air to our tires, having let some out when we committed to the gravel route (for more comfort and better traction). We enjoyed the view while taking turns with the good pump.

On the descent from Col de l’Arpettaz. We kept stopping to gawk at Mont Blanc.

Alpine scene on the descent from Col de l’Arpettaz

Filling our bottles in Flumet. The valley was quite warm and we had both just run out. Fresh and cold!

It started sprinkling as we rode up the hill to Notre-Dame-de-Bellecombe. Our accommodation was a further 1.5 km beyond the village, uphill, of course.

Le Chéloup is 10 km below Col des Saisies

Why Le Chéloup? It was the only place I could book reasonably-priced accommodation to appropriately break up the distance (and climbing) between La Clusaz and Beaufort. Plus, this little B&B offered an evening meal, an important factor when everything around is closed for the season or just for Sunday.

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Scott AndersonWhat a stunning day! Thanks for taking us there.
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1 week ago

Rachael AndersonWow, what a great day! You certainly earned it.
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1 week ago

Margie AndersonWow, living vicariously through you Jacquie. Beautiful post!!
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4 days ago