Day 54 - Port Cesareo to Gallipoli - 9 1/2 Weeks - Copenhagen to Lecce 2019 - CycleBlaze

November 11, 2019

Day 54 - Port Cesareo to Gallipoli

Looking For Safe Harbour

A very short day today as we prepared to hunker down for a nasty storm that's coming in from the south. We really want to cycle around the Salento peninsula, and the weather today, and starting again on Thursday looks pretty good to do that. However the forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday looks horrific for biking. We decided that Gallipoli, just 30 km's away, would be a good spot to hole up. It's an historic old sea port with the old town situated on a small island connected to the mainland by a short causeway.

The Ionian west coast certainly has a different feel from the Aegean east coast, based on what we've seen so far. Certainly Port Cesareo and Gallipoli and the places in between seem to be summer resorts. Since this isn't summer, there are very few tourists around. The flip side to that though is that many of the businesses and tourist sites such as castles, museums, restaurants, hotels & B&B's are also closed tight until the next tourist influx starts in the spring.

We've managed to find places to eat and sleep ... our B&B in Gallipoli is wonderful, but the choices are somewhat limited. Since today was Monday, when even in normal times a lot of restaurants are closed, and there was a nasty storm brewing, our dining choices in Gallipoli tonight were down to one. It was ok but certainly not the most memorable meal of the trip. The house wine was cheaper than bottled water though!

Anyway, nice ride down an interesting and beautiful coast line and we are looking forward to riding the rest of it in a few days.

Song of the Day, Que Sera by Wax Tailor ..... we'll just have to see what comes in the next few days ... whatever will be, will be

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Setting off from the very nice and friendly B&B Le Sinfonie in Port Cesareo
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Most of today's short ride was right along the coast ... starting with the south beach in Port Cesareo. Looks like there has been a little mishap in the harbour too
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I'm not a sailor, but even I can figure out that something went horribly wrong here
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We are more or less following the same route from here to Lecce that Scott and Rachael Anderson did (and wrote about here) in June. Right around this spot they had bumper to bumper traffic backed up for hundreds of meters all trying to get to the Sunday market. We had to wait a while for this one lady to show up, and then the first car we saw in about 5 minutes also came by. Quite a difference on a Monday in November .. this will come back to bite us later though!
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Just as we were entering the Palude del Capitino park that has a few ruins and escarpments ... it decided to rain a little on us.
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Nice views south along the coast towards Galipolli at the top right
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Not sure how old these ruins are but they appear to be watch towers and or defensive fortresses
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looking back north to Palude del Capitino. Very pretty coastline and easy cycling, even with a moderate headwind
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First time we've really been hit with the reality of touring in mid-November in a beach tourism area. Rolled into the nice little seaside resort of Santa Caterina and this pic says it all. The place was shuttered tight!
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Scott AndersonIt’s interesting biking this late in the season, isn’t it? You have to have a flexible mindset and be happy for what you get,
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4 years ago
Lyle McLeodTo Scott AndersonSo true, everyday is a bit of a crapshoot. You can only hope the dice aren’t loaded too much in favour of the house! The next pic kind of shows it’s an even game ... great cup of coffee and equally good apricot Pastry. Thanks for the ongoing comments and support. We admire your ability to pull off your trip and still manage to keep up on ours.
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4 years ago
We did manage to find a cafe that was open in Santa Maria al Bagno for a light lunch
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... and the place was not only for coffee and focaccia!
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Medieval Tower of the Galetena on the southern end of Santa Maria al Bagno ... so much for historical significance though .. it is now a restaurant ... closed for the season of course!
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Still looks pretty cool
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The lone Fiat & Fisherman ... this was the extent of the action along the coastal road today
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This is the high point to the ride today, a cut through a rocky headland.
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looking back north along the coastal road ... heavy traffic for the day with the ubiquitous Italian pickup ... the P-150!
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Glenna JefferiesImagine one of those on the hwy to Canmore mid winter or mid chinook!
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4 years ago
Lyle McLeodTo Glenna JefferiesWith the bed in the back full of frozen grapes!
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4 years ago
Quite pretty coastline and only rugged for the first 15 m up from the sea. After that it's pretty flat and easy riding
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As we got closer to the road cut through the headland, we noticed a couple of old military installations ... a pill box and a lookout... and it made us remember that it is Remembrance Day today
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Arrived in Gallipoli ... it has several distinct protected harbours. This one was filled with some very nice yachts
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... and everyone of these that we've been too seems to have a massive boat that's from London ... like this appropriately named tub
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Cool sculpture right by the old castle and bridge connecting the mainland to the old island town. Not sure if it's a puffer fish or a sea urchin? I'm leaning to urchin
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The keep at the Gallipoli castle ... and the wind is starting to pick up ... harbinger of what's to come!
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Very nice B&B that we will be holed up at for a few days .. Il Giardino Della Regina ... and here is the very nice courtyard garden!
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... there are just interesting little alcoves everywhere
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All of the streets seem to be about 3 m wide with wooden doors opening into courtyards ... peaking into them reveals a whole world behind the walls presented to the road
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... just more interesting little stuff
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As we were walking along the perimeter wall by the sea we noticed these three black cats ... pretty skitty ... As I approached them the one on the wall went over and started to climb down what is essentially a 15 m vertical stone wall
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I had a look over to see where he was going and saw this ... at least 10 other all black cats! About 50 m away from this we came across another group of 10+ all black cats on another rocky beach ... need to try to find out what the story is with Gallipoli and black cats
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You looking at me?
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One guy out fishing from the breakwater ... you won't be here tomorrow buddy!
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Strange looking mushroom cloud to the north ... something happening in Taranto??
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Very clear water on the north and more protected side of the island where the old town of Gallipoli sits
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.. . and the old blue fishing boats are tied up for the night
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... looking back from the old town to the high end yacht harbour. This shows the relative size of the London boat to the others
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Another view of he Castle keep from a different angle
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... and the gate to the castle ... closed and locked ...
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... and it will stay this way until December ... I guess we are going to look for something else to do tomorrow
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... just another nice inner courtyard in the old town
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This is the main cathedral in Gallipoli, Saint Agata's ... there are about 15 churches in the relatively small old town. I am standing right up against the building across the street from the cathedral, kneeling down, with a wide angle lens, to get this shot. Very nice and detailed facade here ... but very difficult to get a good shot of it!
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Saint Agata above the main door ... I could piece together about 20 shots in a mosaic to get the entire front of the building
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The forecast for the next two days.... we are going to become very familiar with the Gallipoli ‘cause we’re not biking into that mess!
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Signing off with a tasty craft beer from the inside of a cafe in Gallipoli
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Today's ride: 33 km (20 miles)
Total: 3,186 km (1,979 miles)

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