They Already Brought In The Sheaves

September 7, 2021

Colfax, Washington

A couple days ago I was talking to my brother-in-law about my bike trip. He seemed interested in my route but I fear I described it in more detail than he probably really wanted to hear. When I was almost done explaining the Idaho part of the route he interjected, "Oooh, Idaho is kind of a hotspot right now."

"A hotspot?" I questioned. "Are you referring to the forest fires?"

"No, it's got one of the highest Covid rates in the west," he replied.

It might seem kind of strange that I breathed a big sigh of relief. Covid I'm prepared for. I'm vaccinated, I'll wear my mask, and most of all, I'm really good at avoiding people.

Forest fires and the related smoke is another thing altogether. From the minute I conceived of this trip, I swore the only thing that would stop me would be a massive wildfire in my path or the kind of dangerous Air Quality Index I experienced last year in Spokane. (Somewhere in the area of 480)

Still, I had some concern. I mean, I was planning on making Idaho some kind of Holy Land. What if it turns out to be a Sodom or Gomorrah?

This morning I put those thoughts out of my head. I've got at least three days in the state of Washington before I have to worry about getting Covid . . . or getting turned into a pillar of salt.

THE PALOUSE

Being that autumn is fast approaching, it might have been wiser to start my tour by going north first and then heading down to the warmer environments later. Unfortunately, wisdom isn't one of my strengths.

No, I'm making a beeline to the Snake River Canyon, via the Palouse, because I like arid treeless areas the best. Some people like to save the best for last, but I'm more like a child. Delayed gratification is not my thing. I want the hills and the desert NOW! The mountains, lakes, view-blockers, and cold temperatures can wait.

There's a pretty long climb out of Spokane, and then some sparse pine forests before one gets to The Palouse. Then there are many ups and downs through the incredible hills of wheat. Who cares? It's worth the effort.

The half-smile on my face indicates the worthiness.

I am proud to be in the biggest wheat producing county of all wheat producing counties.

The next 60 miles or so are a designated scenic byway.

If you are a big fan of mile after mile of rolling hills, improbably beautiful agriculture, and wide open scenery with very few view-blockers (trees), you can do no better than the Palouse. That's why I'm riding pretty much the same route today as I rode on the last day of my Dotted Lines of the Inland Northwest tour. I won't bore you with too many of the same pictures, but it's part of my job as a journal writer to show a few.

And I've got a video too. It will prove that I know beauty when I see it.

There's the tiny town of Rosalia with a nice Palouse backdrop.

As the sign says, this is the site of the Steptoe Battlefield. Many men lost their lives here and I mean no disrespect when I say I can't think of a more beautiful place to go down in a blaze of glory. I'd be honored to go down in a CycleBlaze of glory here -- just not today please.

Steptoe Butte was looming to the east for at least 20 miles today.

I had hopes that riding from north to south would give me a better perspective on the Palouse than when I looked at the angles of the landscape from the south to north direction two years ago. Maybe it did, I don't know. It was great, but I did miss the wheat waving with the wind. This year almost all the wheat has already been harvested.

My first wildlife sighting in the Palouse.

I really wish I could have captured all six farm vehicles in this convoy, but the rest of them had already rounded the curve.

It was a pretty long day, so I was glad to arrive at the final descent into the town of Colfax.

I did something I don't often do when on a bike tour: I made a motel reservation. I was looking at a pretty long first day and the predicted afternoon temperatures would be in the 90's. I've been reading about all the increases in tourism and all the fully booked accomodations on CycleBlaze journals. I didn't want to take any chances on having to find a camping spot in a wheat field outside of town.

I've got to say, it was kind of nice walking into the motel, saying I had a pre-paid reservation, and entering my room two minutes later. But I can assure you, judging by the emptiness of the Wheatland Best Western, the tourism boom hasn't exactly extended to Eastern Washington.

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Today's ride: 64 miles (103 km)
Total: 64 miles (103 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	6
Comment on this entry	Comment	8

Kelly IniguezReading how you like emptiness - have you ever done any of the Western Express? I've been looking at a route for next year called the Four Eurekas, because it goes through four towns named Eureka - in Utah, Nevada, Washington, and Montana.

I'm probably going to abandon the idea because the Nevada part is too difficult for me - four days of ~80 mile days with 4,000ish feet of climbing per day . . . I could do one of those but four? More fun than I can handle.

Unfortunately, the only other west/east route for Nevada is the interstate . . .

But, if you want wide open - that's your area! That and Monument Valley in Navajo Nation - also the Highway 141 area of Colorado. I tried to link that here, but maybe I can't link in messages, or maybe I just don't know how . . .

Jerry Harp says his ride through eastern Washington was the absolute best day of his cycling career.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Kelly IniguezI'm afraid of those long expanses of Nevada too. I have confidence in my cycling, and my water conservation skills, and my ability to go long distances without food, and I like to camp, but damn, that big stretch of Nevada freaks me out. But I REALLY want to do Monument Valley some day.
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2 years ago

Kelly IniguezTo Gregory GarceauMonument Valley is totally doable if you hit it on a good wind day. We’ve gone both directions. Heading south has the better views, by far.

In 2020, leaving Kayenta, the wind was so strong we thought we would have to walk to the corner. We made it! From there, it was a very strong tailwind all the way to Mexican Hat.

Some days blend together. Monument Valley will always be a stand out. Just like the Palouse for you!
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2 years ago

Henry DaltonTo Kelly IniguezI've ridden across Nevada twice, one time coming south from Oregon and then taking most of US50, and the other time using US6 and NV375 (the "Extraterrestrial Highway"). For anyone who likes desolation (as I do), Nevada has the most desolate desolation I've ever seen. It's not the kind of place where there's something interesting around every corner, like Monument Valley; it's the kind of place that has no corners. I really enjoyed both trips and hope to go back again. But it's not really practical for an all-motels trip, the towns are just a little too far apart for just about anyone.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Henry DaltonNot just once across Nevada, but TWICE? You are the Desolation King!
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonYay! You made it through the first day! I sure love it up there.
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2 years ago

Bob KoreisThe Wheatland Best Western. Been there many a time. They make their money off of events at WSU. There and any other hotel within a similar distance to campus requires a two night stay on football weekends. Visiting teams (think basketball/volleyball) will stay there.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Bob KoreisHi Bob,
Yes, I figured that place gets a nice share of the WSU business that overflows from Pullman. On my tour two years ago I think I got the last hotel room in Pullman on back to school weekend. And I paid a premium price for a pretty dumpy motel too.
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2 years ago