Day 63: Samut Songkhram - Hat Chao Samran - Frankie goes to.....Indochina

March 16, 2018

Day 63: Samut Songkhram - Hat Chao Samran

Routing: #35, Scenic Route 2021

I honestly believe the Mae Klong Hotel in Samut Songkhram is the ideal place for a single night stopover. I was literally sitting on their doorsill getting entertained by the nightmarket procedures happening right in front of it. This morning I got my coffee and drinks in the 7eleven on the other side of the road and my noodle soup was had in the restaurant directly attached to the hotel. Just perfect!

The rest of the day was by no means perfect but I still did enjoy it immensely, taking into account I am only a days ride away from the metropolis of Bangkok! Trafficwise that is. When I rolled onto the #35 and had a massive tailwind from the left rear I knew exactly that wind direction would be requiring far more energy input from my side later on. That´s beacause when leaving the highway for the Scenic Route 2021 you do pretty much a 90 degree curve to the left. And unfortunately I was to be right! I cannot remember having struggled that much on a dead flat piece of road over a relatively short distance like 30 km. But believe me, the headwind was that fierce, it brought me to an actual stillstand once I stopped pedalling. Insane! There will be a photo further down saying 25 km to Hat Chao Samran (HCS). When I left there after taking that photo it was precisely high noon and when I rolled down to the Chao Samran Beach it was 2.15 pm. And I only had one short drink break on the way! Otherwise I had been pedalling hard for more than 2 hours bringing it to an average of less than 12km/h. Despite all my years of cycling experience I find it very difficult to accept and deal with headwind.

What I am good at is swiftly recovering from a rough day - physically andmentally. Coming into HCS I was directly aiming for the Ruanthai Guesthouse, where I had already stayed in 2012 while on my way down to Malaysia. Then it had been my very first day on the road and I was keen to keep rolling but I really liked the place. Now I have 20+ days to get down to Samui and while in Bangkok I decided I should really come to a "rest" at some stage. So far I have not managed to settle down saying: "Frankie, you are retired! No need to keep racing around SEA anymore." So as this particular tranche down to Surat Thani has always been one of the most delightful cycling I have done I arrived at the guesthouse with a strategy: If they would have a room for me at the weekend and the price hadn´t gone skyhigh over the last 6 years I would stay at least two nights on this delightful beach. Getting to the indescript building you would not necessarily recognize it as a hotel/guesthouse - neither the 24 nor isuiisu posted anywhere. It only says "Information" on the reception and that´s how I found it the last time. Their wifi router is called "Ruanthai", on google maps it is called "Rueanthai Chaylay".

This time the lady asked for 800 Baht for a great 1st floor room (no.3) with a sea view. No balcony but opening the large window it feels very close to being on one and I guess would have even paid the 800 in the end. I still decided to tell her I stayed here in 2012 and my room had been just 600 then. You`ve got to be sort of careful with that approach in Thailand. You may well get a brisk refusal if they consider it an inappropriate proposal but with my few words of Thai I can always communicate I am on a 5-months bicycle trip and am limited to hok roi (600) baht per day. I personally find that perfectly acceptable and she obviously thought so as well. That´s why I am going to enjoy the - to me - best beach between Bangkok and the ones south of Hua Hin for three nights. Very happy with the whole day again!

One thing keeps bothering me though: I have to do something about my face. I told you about my permanent problems since badly burning it 30 something years ago in Queensland. Turning southbound again this morning the sun was not only coming from the front all day but the wind was doing the same carrying some of that salt from the farms too. I still do put SPF 50 on every morning but today my nose really hurts. And shines. Leigh, the Aussie I met in Koh Kong and Bangkok, already nicknamed me "Rudolph" (the rednosed reindeer) which didn´t help my self-confidence either but that´s the down under humour I better get used to..... Just kidding. All the same I really have to be careful with it and that´s - apart from what I said above - one of the reasons I will have three nights here. The good news at the very end: That´s my only problem. You all have a good weekend!

Along Scenic Route 2021. That grey stuff on the island is not concrete but tidal mud

Somehow mystic these stilt fishing huts in the shallow water

That´s more or less what it looked like for the last 25 km. The salt farms are here for two reasons: Sun and permanent wind. Being on those dam-like roads you are really exposed to both elements

The first crystals showing up at the top. Would that be the "fleur de sel"?

With that much wind around you might as well design the temples accordingly. Wat Nok Pak Ta Le

...and the view out of my window. No need to switch the aircon on, the strong breeze that challenged me all day is my friend down here

Samot Songkhram - Hat Chao Samran. Forget about the figures shown here. It is continuously marked as Scenic Route 2021

Today's ride: 67 km (42 miles)
Total: 4,893 km (3,039 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	0