March 29, 2016
Chai Prakan to Thaton
In restrospect, stopping at Chai Prakan Banai Resort wasn't the best decision. There was nothing overtly wrong with the place (apart from being a bit overpriced). The real issue was trying to find food. The resort's restuarant was only open in the evening (and even then they weren't interested in feeding us because they had a tour group coming in) and there was very little choice (OK, no choice) in the immediate vicinity. We eventually ate our 7-11 emergency rations (coconut biscuits) and then managed to the only open place where we had a reasonable spicy minced pork on rice. For supper we also found only place place open. When you're cycling, food becomes an obsession. It might have been better to cycle further on into the town where there are other guesthouses and more food options.
Today's ride was quite the opposite of yesterday's - lot's of food and an easy ride. We'd bought some plastic sandwhiches from the 7-11 which we devoured before we left and then had a couple of extra breakfasts on the way. Because the road was mostly flat or downhill and we only had 56 kays to do, we left at 6:15am and made our way slowly to Thaton which we reached just after ten in the morning.
On the way we stopped at the Makro in Fang so Leigh could look for insect repellant (we lost ours somewhere in Chiang Mai) and to continue the hopeless search for a gas canister for our stove. While she was wasting time, I had a coffee and the little wire bicycle had a look at the parking lot and the Makro sign.
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Makro is a South African chain so it was a surprise when I first saw it in Thailand. The holding company, MassMart, was bought out by Walmart a few years ago, after much resistence from local unionists and worker organizations (who apparantly managed to gain some important concesssions with regards to worker welfare before the competition board gave approval) and has spread its brands up into the rest of Africa and elsewhere.
Second breakfast was a pork kebab with third breakfast being the same plus some sticky rice. The South African equivalent would be "pap en wors" (porridge and sausage) cooked on an open fire called a "braai" (the porridge being cooked in a dutch oven on the fire). Personally, I prefer the Thai version.
Thaton looks a nice little place. I was worried that it might be overrun with tourists but we have yet to see another falang. We are staying at the Apple Resort on the northern side of the river (turn right as you cross the bridge). At 500 baht it is about the best value for money we have got yet. It's only a fan room but the thermometer at reception read only 24 degrees at midday so an aircon isn't needed.
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I am really surprised at how cool today has been. If it stays like this further north, we may end up sleeping late more regularly. As it was, we were able to wander our way up to Thaton without any pressure from the day heating up.
In the afternoon we took a ride/walk up the hill above the town to look for birds (a lifer in Greenish Warbler) and the various Buddhas.
Some of the (very) young monks were enjoying playing with some dogs.
Supper at our resort - quite reasonable given that we are used to eating at establishments for the locals. The view wasn't too shabby either.
At the moment we can't seem to get enough food, starch in particular. We have had three bowls of rice each already today apart from other food and snacks. I can't help thinking that someone has stolen my buttocks because I can't find them anymore.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 835 km (519 miles)
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